Oil leak from clutch rod. Help!!

Superdog25

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Hello everyone. I got this bike a couple of weeks ago and I'm trying to get it up and running. I have encountered a weird oil leak tho. It looks to be the clutch rod seal. And everytime I put it in first, it dies. I opened up the sprocket cover and noticed the clutch rod leaking, and when I put pressure on the rod it leaked even more. Any idea what's causing this? Thanks
 
I'm not exactly sure just how the XS400 push rod is set up, but it's probably close to the way the XS650 is.
On the XS650 if you can move the pushrod much the seal is bad. It's bad because behind the seal in the shaft the rod runs through is a bushing. This bushing is worn. This allows the rod to move around. Stretching the seal out of shape.
To replace the bushing and seal is easy. Start by pulling the rod out. Next pull the seal. Start with a drill bit just a big bigger than the rod. Slowly drill into the bushing. It you drill through the bushing before it catches the bit and starts spinning, try the next bigger bit. At some point it bushing will catch on the bit. Once it does just pull the spinning bit out, the bushing will come out with it.
Once you have the bushing out just drive the new one in. I use a Phillips head screwdriver as a driver. Slip a flat washer on the screwdriver, just a bit bigger than the bushing. Slip the bushing on, now put the tip of the screwdriver in the hole the bushing goes in. It might just push in. If not a few gentle taps with a hammer will get it. The screwdriver holds thing straight, the washer prevents the bushing from going to far.
Now for the seal The original has a bead around it that locks the seal in the cases when assembling the case halves, New seal have the bead around it but is tapered to ease the install. You need to bevel the hole the seal goes into, a sharp edge cuts into the seal and will leak. Buy two, just incase the first try fails
Use the same screwdriver trick with the seal just use a washer larger than the seal. A bit of Yamabond around the seal lets the seal slide in place easier, it also help prevent leaks.
You might want to test fit the rod in the bushing before you do the seal. Sometimes the bushing fits tight enough the rod wont slide through it easily. If so a bit of vey fine sand paper on a dowel can polish the bushing out a bit, go slowly test often Don't want a sloppy fit.
Put back together.
Leo
 
I'm not exactly sure just how the XS400 push rod is set up, but it's probably close to the way the XS650 is.
On the XS650 if you can move the pushrod much the seal is bad. It's bad because behind the seal in the shaft the rod runs through is a bushing. This bushing is worn. This allows the rod to move around. Stretching the seal out of shape.
To replace the bushing and seal is easy. Start by pulling the rod out. Next pull the seal. Start with a drill bit just a big bigger than the rod. Slowly drill into the bushing. It you drill through the bushing before it catches the bit and starts spinning, try the next bigger bit. At some point it bushing will catch on the bit. Once it does just pull the spinning bit out, the bushing will come out with it.
Once you have the bushing out just drive the new one in. I use a Phillips head screwdriver as a driver. Slip a flat washer on the screwdriver, just a bit bigger than the bushing. Slip the bushing on, now put the tip of the screwdriver in the hole the bushing goes in. It might just push in. If not a few gentle taps with a hammer will get it. The screwdriver holds thing straight, the washer prevents the bushing from going to far.
Now for the seal The original has a bead around it that locks the seal in the cases when assembling the case halves, New seal have the bead around it but is tapered to ease the install. You need to bevel the hole the seal goes into, a sharp edge cuts into the seal and will leak. Buy two, just incase the first try fails
Use the same screwdriver trick with the seal just use a washer larger than the seal. A bit of Yamabond around the seal lets the seal slide in place easier, it also help prevent leaks.
You might want to test fit the rod in the bushing before you do the seal. Sometimes the bushing fits tight enough the rod wont slide through it easily. If so a bit of vey fine sand paper on a dowel can polish the bushing out a bit, go slowly test often Don't want a sloppy fit.
Put back together.
Leo
Thanks a lot Leo. I just ordered the seal and it should be here next week. Do you think the seal being bad effects the clutch itself? Is that why it dies in first?
 
Does the bike die as soon as you shift out of neutral? First or second gear? If so, check that the side stand (kick stand) is up. If it is, the safety switch is probably bad.
 
The clutch push rod seal has little to no effect on clutch operation. It just keeps oil in.
If your bike stalls when you put it in gear my guess is you need to properly adjust the clutch.
Leo
 
This clutch pushrod seal is not included in gasket kits and may even be excluded from other seal kits. Ive only been able to find it as a single part and it runs around $8, but this was something like 2 years ago..

Its a good idea while youre at the clutch pushrod, to remove the rod and smooth it out with a scotch brite or sandpaper and lightly oil it. This will prevent the new seal from tearing when you replace the rod. You can also verify the rods straightness.
 
Agreed Mike.
I had to do this on my xs750 last year and smoothing the clutch rod is definitely a good decision.
The seal now runs around $20 shipped which is beyond ridiculous. Guess I need to suck it up because mine needs replaced.
 
Looking at the exploded view on boats.net I do not see a bushing? Just a seal and also when the rod is pulled out does the small ball stay in place or ? that looks like something that could be easily lost....I am going to change out this seal also as the motor is on the bench.
 
These seals do have a metal backing on them but I don't see any bushing. I have never needed to replace one and can't remember a bushing when I tore down a bunch of xs400 motors. But that was many years ago. DSC03319.JPG DSC03320.JPG
 
I changed mine a few days ago. Haven't ran the engine yet to see if I'm oil leak free or if I have an additional leak.The weather here has been absolute garbage for riding bikes.. Ok for working on them or building them though.

I purchased the OEM Yamaha seal from partzilla via their ebay store. It did have the metal ring on one side but no bushing in the middle or anything.
 
Mine was very easy. I was surprised because last year I ruined two seals trying to replace it on my XS750 but on that bike the edges where the seal goes in were sharper and I ruined them.

I removed my old one with a small flat-head screwdriver. When I put the new one in I put a small amount of grease on it so it would slide easier and have less chance of getting sliced. I was able to push it in carefully with my thumb. Just took a few minutes.

Good luck.
 
Ive been watching videos on youtube on how to do it for xs650s. Would you mind writing up a quick instructions on how you did it? I would greatly appreciate it. Leak is driving me crazy.
 
Okay so I have an XS400 and I had a leaking clutch rod seal. The previous owner had drilled holes around the seal on the metal part....I don't know why..but anyway I called a mechanic shop and they said it will be $95/hr and how they have to diagnose and clean and blah blah .... So heres my attempt at fixing the clutch rod seal leak myself (before and after pics attached). I simply took the JB weld the heat and oil resistant kind and applied it around the holes the previous owner so graciously drilled. Started her up today and no freaking leaks holy crap dude I shit you not, didn't think it would work.
 

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Hey I happen to have the exact same problem on my 1983 Maxim. Here's a video I recorded with the issue. You can see how it's leaking oil, plus the rod seems to be bended slightly, doesn't it? Or is that wobble effect coming from a worn out seal?

I've been trying to pull out the push rod without luck. I'm planning to replace the seal but no clue how to take it out either. Any idea how to do the job without opening the crankcase on the right side?

Thanks!

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