PopMac's XS400 Maxim Cleanup

Do you use them for everything
Yep everything...all covers... even recessed screws inside my engine rebuild...makes it much easier on dissassembly.
Plus they are stainless steel, just have to use antiseize to protect the threads...and adjust the torque settings to a lower value, some say half but I went 3/4 for good measure.
 
That should work if no fuses over 20 amps in there. I haven't even looked at the electrical yet to know. That will be one of my last things to hopefully worry about.
 
That should work if no fuses over 20 amps in there. I haven't even looked at the electrical yet to know. That will be one of my last things to hopefully worry about.
Previous owner has all 20 amp but I believe it should be one 20 and three 10.

The more I am stripping off the black finish the more I like it and may not repaint it. I think it will come down to rust - if I can clean up the rust off the pipes then I'll leave it as is.

Went to lube up the cables today and my clutch cable is pretty frayed at the lever end. Dammit. Oh well, I'll make a mental note of it and get that taken care of before next ride season. Works for now and I can't take it out anyway so it's not the end of the world.
 

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If you plan riding the bike, even just around the yard, replace the clutch cable before it breaks or worse yet jams. A $20 cable is a lot less expensive than an over revved engine.
 
On my bike I had a 20 amp, 15 amp and two 10 amp fuses. I ended up putting a new fuse block in mine and I went with one that had 6 gangs so I had storage for a couple extra fuses. The one you linked above looks like it should work as long as the profile isn't too tall.
 
If you plan riding the bike, even just around the yard, replace the clutch cable before it breaks or worse yet jams. A $20 cable is a lot less expensive than an over revved engine.
What is the possible danger in having a cable break? This is a genuine question from me not knowing, not me being argumentative. If the cable breaks doesn't the clutch just close, so you wouldn't be able to engage and shift? If there's a reason to change it out then for sure, I'm with you. But I frequently read "horror stories" of peoples clutch cables snapping when they are out in the middle of nowhere - the story always ends that they got stranded somewhere, had to rig something funky back up to get home, or they are super smart and had a backup cable. I don't think I've heard of any real damage happening so I was unconcerned.

On my bike I had a 20 amp, 15 amp and two 10 amp fuses. I ended up putting a new fuse block in mine and I went with one that had 6 gangs so I had storage for a couple extra fuses. The one you linked above looks like it should work as long as the profile isn't too tall.
That's my fear - buying something online and having it not fit, then paying shipping on it back isn't really worth it. Finding something locally so I can just drive back and return if it's no good would be ideal, but is proving to be difficult. The ones I can find in stock are quite obviously too big, I am having a hard time finding something compact. Do you have a link or model number for what you used? Your build looks fantastic, by the way.

I was looking at these today and thought that I may be able to get four of them inside the current box, but they are just slightly too big. https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-mini-fuse-holders.html
 
I was looking at these today and thought that I may be able to get four of them inside the current box, but they are just slightly too big. https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs650-mini-fuse-holders.html
If you lose the cover and use low-profile mini fuses that just might be able to work.
Low profile mini fuses fit into most mini fuse holders but are only half as tall, only barely sticking above the holder itself:
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-passenger-car/blade-fuses/891.aspx
Pretty sure I saw some low-profile minis at Canadian Tire last time I was there. Not too common yet.

I made up a custom holder for low-profile mini fuses to fit inside the stock fuse box:
http://www.xs400.com/attachments/20141114_200220-1-jpg.16900/
The brass crimp connectors are just soldered to the fuse holder, without much of a mechanical connection. Not sure how robust it is.
 
The fuse holder I bought is much bigger than the stock one but I relocated mine from the stock position. I bought it at Napa but it had to be ordered in because not many people are using glass fuses anymore around here. Before I relocated mine and put in a fuse"panel", I was just running inline fuses like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014J85NT...t=&hvlocphy=9021232&hvtargid=pla-305490666360

They worked decent and fit with the stock seat and everything, I just removed the cover and zip tied it all together.
 
If you lose the cover and use low-profile mini fuses that just might be able to work.
Low profile mini fuses fit into most mini fuse holders but are only half as tall, only barely sticking above the holder itself:
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/fuses/automotive-passenger-car/blade-fuses/891.aspx
Pretty sure I saw some low-profile minis at Canadian Tire last time I was there. Not too common yet.

I made up a custom holder for low-profile mini fuses to fit inside the stock fuse box:
http://www.xs400.com/attachments/20141114_200220-1-jpg.16900/
The brass crimp connectors are just soldered to the fuse holder, without much of a mechanical connection. Not sure how robust it is.
That looks really slick. What are the fuse holders you are using there? The ones I bought are too big all around. Too tall-but if I remove the cap and use low profile ones that may work-but also too wide. I can try to remove all the plastic surrounding the holder, just strip it down and see what's inside and how much space that would give me. The Canadian Tire by my work does have the low profile guys in stock so if I can get it to look like it'll fit I can pick some up without issue.


The fuse holder I bought is much bigger than the stock one but I relocated mine from the stock position. I bought it at Napa but it had to be ordered in because not many people are using glass fuses anymore around here. Before I relocated mine and put in a fuse"panel", I was just running inline fuses like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014J85NT...t=&hvlocphy=9021232&hvtargid=pla-305490666360

They worked decent and fit with the stock seat and everything, I just removed the cover and zip tied it all together.
Ah, okay. I saw that you had moved it but with the angle of the photos it was hard to get an idea of how large it is. I saw those glass in line ones when I was looking around and thought that could work without a box, just zip tied together, but wasn't sure how bad of an idea that would be to have them moving around a bit potentially. I could also do that with the mini fuse holders that I picked up... they are all protected so I suppose they don't really need to be in a case? Just tie them together and find something to secure them to?
 
What is the possible danger in having a cable break? This is a genuine question from me not knowing, not me being argumentative. If the cable breaks doesn't the clutch just close, so you wouldn't be able to engage and shift? If there's a reason to change it out then for sure, I'm with you. But I frequently read "horror stories" of peoples clutch cables snapping when they are out in the middle of nowhere - the story always ends that they got stranded somewhere, had to rig something funky back up to get home, or they are super smart and had a backup cable. I don't think I've heard of any real damage happening so I was unconcerned.
It hasn't happened to me on my motorcycle, but a frayed cable can jam in it's housing, preventing it from moving. I had a frayed cable on a bicycle brake (a couple decades ago) that jammed. The brake remained engaged and I was stopped. Had to borrow a wrench to release the cable so I could get to school.

A jammed clutch cable could prevent the clutch from engaging and result in the engine being over-revved momentarily. Never a good thing. Again, it's a $20 cable that takes 30 minutes to change...
 
That looks really slick. What are the fuse holders you are using there? The ones I bought are too big all around. Too tall-but if I remove the cap and use low profile ones that may work-but also too wide. I can try to remove all the plastic surrounding the holder, just strip it down and see what's inside and how much space that would give me. The Canadian Tire by my work does have the low profile guys in stock so if I can get it to look like it'll fit I can pick some up without issue.
These are the holders: www.ebay.com/itm/110652752046
They're really meant for pcb mounting but you could solder wires to them.
I discovered that the spade terminals I already had fit perfectly between the pins (2.8mm?). Bent the pins over the spade, soldered, and crimped the stock wires into it.
The black box that holds them was done up in CAD and 3D printed. It clips into the fuse holders in the stock fuse box, at least on my SOHC XS360.
Uses four fuses with room for three spares.

Might do the same thing for my XS400 once I get it running.
 
but a frayed cable can jam in it's housing, preventing it from moving. I had a frayed cable on a bicycle brake (a couple decades ago) that jammed.
Ah, got it. You're right - my thinking was if there was a reason that the cable should be replaced before it breaks that for the cost it should, but I couldn't really think of a reason why it would matter too much. But that makes sense.

These are the holders: www.ebay.com/itm/110652752046
They're really meant for pcb mounting but you could solder wires to them.
I discovered that the spade terminals I already had fit perfectly between the pins (2.8mm?). Bent the pins over the spade, soldered, and crimped the stock wires into it.
The black box that holds them was done up in CAD and 3D printed. It clips into the fuse holders in the stock fuse box, at least on my SOHC XS360.
Uses four fuses with room for three spares.

Might do the same thing for my XS400 once I get it running.
Interesting. My first thought when the holders I bought were too big was "damn, I wish somebody I knew owned a 3D printer."
 
broken clutch cables while in the middle of nowhere can be a pain but don't worry if it happens just makes starting and stopping an issue its hard on the drive train but in a pinch with electric start or neutral gear drops you can get going from stops to atleast get you to civilization or phone service to call a buddy just have to shift up and down with rpm ranges just like in a rig that the master cylinder goes out in
 
What do you guys use for clutch cable - as in, can I use any XS400 clutch cable or does it need to be specifically for the 82 Maxim?

Was out of town the last little bit, should be able to dig back into the bike tomorrow
 
Maxim specific. The Seca cable may work if you are changing to lower bars, but isn't long enough to work with the stock Maxim bars.
:agree: as with any cable on the front end,lenght is critical... wouldn't want the clutch to engage simply by turning now would we...same for throttle
 
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