Starting my project

[nitrofish1]

yea, get down and dirty as Bc says, each area can be tackled modular so its not too daunting, if the engine runs ok, leave it and tittivate it up.

concentrate on the cycle parts, look at other bikes and see what can fit, scour ebay etc etc.

i was thinking about this the other day drewpy. i was like "i could do the footpeg mounts and lets say.... the kickstarter in one night, and thatd be a good chunk of it" and looking at it the frame would probably take me one night to do.


the engine has corrosion on it, then id like to shoot it with black paint when im all finished with it, as the base is already black and thatll get taken off with the grinding or such. best idea to leave it in the frame or take it out and sandblast it? or leave it in and sandpaper it? my concern is getting in between the cooling fins, the sandblaster would be top dog for that, but also lifting it off the frame and into my car is my other concern lol.

i already have a laundry list of parts i need, and also a list of parts to make it into a tracker. things like the pegs and modding the exhaust note

 

[nitrofish1]

another quick question, how do you not get lube all over the bike and yourself drewpy without the chain guard?

 

[drewpy]

if the old paint has stuck, don't take it off, use it as a base!

I would take the head off to blast it ( walnut is the prefered method) do the head and cam cover too. you can clean up and grind in the valves while your at to too. ie top end rebuild

don't have lube everywhere as use a sticky chain lube and let it dry overnight

 

[nitrofish1]

if the old paint has stuck, don't take it off, use it as a base!

I would take the head off to blast it ( walnut is the prefered method) do the head and cam cover too. you can clean up and grind in the valves while your at to too. ie top end rebuild

don't have lube everywhere as use a sticky chain lube and let it dry overnight

the engine runs just fine do i really want to attempt the top end rebuild? the blaster we have at my work is sand, and im not sure theyd let me swap out the medias because they need it for cleaning up spark plugs. i was just concerned with getting in between the cooling fins cleaned. was either gonna grind or blast that off, then paint or polish.

as far as the frame goes theres some rust on the surface in spots, and most of the original frame paint will be staying on there, but itll prolly get painted over with the rattle can.

 

[bcware]

The aluminum is probably too soft for sand; also, the machine-matched mating surfaces of the rocker cover and valve cover are sensitive.

The top end seems easy to rebuild; I'm doing it right now and I have no prior experience. Cleaning between the fins is very difficult. I have been using a pipe cleaner and currently I am soaking the parts in a big bucket of degreaser. All the gaskets are removed, of course.

I'd also be open to advice on how to get this thing cleaner.

 

[nitrofish1]

The aluminum is probably too soft for sand; also, the machine-matched mating surfaces of the rocker cover and valve cover are sensitive.

The top end seems easy to rebuild; I'm doing it right now and I have no prior experience. Cleaning between the fins is very difficult. I have been using a pipe cleaner and currently I am soaking the parts in a big bucket of degreaser. All the gaskets are removed, of course.

I'd also be open to advice on how to get this thing cleaner.

ive read sandpaper and about 4 hours of elbow grease gets this done, but thats a tight fit for the fins. its basic aluminum polishing, theres a few threads on here about it, and i spose its something ill end up doing to avoid media blasting damage. probably the only part of the bike that ill have to do that for.
just a quick thought on here, id say try a piece of scotchbrite clamped between some long needlenose pliers to get in, its not gonna be pretty but itll eventually get it done.

im going to be picking up some evapo-rust here soon, and after complete disassembly, grinding on some parts of the frame to get that cleaned up, some sandpaper, lots of scraping, ill be bathing a whole bucket load of parts, then its all going back together, repainted, cleaned of rust, and ready to rock with new parts.

i was at the shop today, took off the rear tire, was being a noob about the front, i forgot a step to it so im going back tomorrow to take off that, and next weekend ill be cleaning up the carbs and putting on new tires, fixing the front brakes, then i need to take the bike in to get the front steering rack aligned, then its disassembly and full cleaning time.

ive already spied out several frame tabs for parts that are going to be replaced that will be disappearing during the cleaning. also going to be figuring out a way to remount the rear plate and its light during reassembly. so its going to be two weeks or so before the bike is going to be coming apart fully and all the parts are going to be cleaned.

i even got a picture of me in my "work area" this morning, dont worry theres LOADS of room to move around in.....

 

[nitrofish1]

looks like ill be doing most of my ordering from this partsnmore place. they got the parts cheaper than ebay, and a large selection of aftermarkets, and they even have the yamaha special bars that my bike did not come with. i should get some cushion grips for them long trips


took a second look at the special bars, and theyre practically apehangers with the 7+ inch rise lol

 

[Shaun Chandler]

I actually sandblasted mine in a small cabinet I have access to at the school I work at. I would agree a less agressive abrassive would be best but sand will work, I did a pritty crazy amount of masking first though using 100 mile an hour tape (duct tape) over all surfaces I didn't want touched. I'm rather OCD so I had the patience to spend time masking. My wife just usually looks at me like I'm crazy (I probably am). If your using sand you can also use the sand that has been in the cabinet awhile it will have lost its sharp edges and cut less.

Shaun

 

[corruptmind]

looks like ill be doing most of my ordering from this partsnmore place. they got the parts cheaper than ebay, and a large selection of aftermarkets, and they even have the yamaha special bars that my bike did not come with. i should get some cushion grips for them long trips


took a second look at the special bars, and theyre practically apehangers with the 7+ inch rise lol

I used to use foam grips because they were cheap and I didn't feel a lot of vibration, but being a 365 rider they were breaking down pretty fast between the weather and being worn. Right now my wife & I are using these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/rvgs-model-719-gel-grips/p2017097.jcwx?filterid=c14731o20j3

These are the foam grips I was refering too: http://www.jcwhitney.com/foam-grips/p2017113.jcwx?filterid=c14731j3

Posted via Mobile

 

[nitrofish1]

I used to use foam grips because they were cheap and I didn't feel a lot of vibration, but being a 365 rider they were breaking down pretty fast between the weather and being worn. Right now my wife & I are using these: http://www.jcwhitney.com/rvgs-model-719-gel-grips/p2017097.jcwx?filterid=c14731o20j3

These are the foam grips I was refering too: http://www.jcwhitney.com/foam-grips/p2017113.jcwx?filterid=c14731j3

Posted via Mobile

i may go to the dealer to pick out some grips. like i want to get some "cushion grips", but from the pictures you have no idea how hard or soft they are.

tomorrow im making a list of all the things i need to do, in the order i need to do them in, along with all the parts i need, and want to need. during reassembly ill be adding the items such as pegs and etc. may take me into the spring to do it all but thats fine by me. need to get it disassembled before winter rolls around cuz i dont want to be bustin myself up in the shop when its 40 out. but once i get it parted out and organized, i can start cleaning, then reassembling with the new parts and the aftermarkets i want for riding in the spring. after i get all of that on there and get it running normally and the way i want with the new carb jets i will remove the electric start, center stand, and possibly get a new seat. so that is my plan so far. im still waitin to hear from you daddio, nows the time so when i order parts for reassembly it will all fall into place for Sheniqua

 

[nitrofish1]

the list is made! and boy is it long! luckily, some of the stuff i was really worried about purchasing, like new turn signals and headlight, i found super cheap thanks to my friend amazon. something that is normally 25 for one is now a 4 pack of turn signals for 20 =D

 

[nitrofish1]

also debating between superbike bars, and the original yamaha special hanger bars. partsnmore has em, 7.5" of rise with almost 12" of pullback

need em comfy for long rides, will prolly end up going with those gel grips, i bet theyre more comfortable than most out there, unless i spent a fortune on a set, which i will never do...

 

[bcware]

then i need to take the bike in to get the front steering rack aligned

Say what? Steering rack alignment? Is something bent?

Oh, and I am using Oury grips; I like them a lot, they feel almost like gel, and are pretty cheap. They feel better than a standard set of Pro Grips (not gel) on my Gixxer.

Make sure you like the way your bike looks in terms of handle bars. I am running Euro bars; like superbike, but with a little more pull-back.

Are you new to riding? When I first started out everything was uncomfortable. After 6 months I can ride a super sports class bike for 6 or more hours without appreciable discomfort. The lower your bars, the more your abs and neck need to work. Honestly though, unless you're running clip-ons you should be fine with whatever you like.

 

[nitrofish1]

Say what? Steering rack alignment? Is something bent?

Oh, and I am using Oury grips; I like them a lot, they feel almost like gel, and are pretty cheap. They feel better than a standard set of Pro Grips (not gel) on my Gixxer.

Make sure you like the way your bike looks in terms of handle bars. I am running Euro bars; like superbike, but with a little more pull-back.

Are you new to riding? When I first started out everything was uncomfortable. After 6 months I can ride a super sports class bike for 6 or more hours without appreciable discomfort. The lower your bars, the more your abs and neck need to work. Honestly though, unless you're running clip-ons you should be fine with whatever you like.

the front "triple tree" and forks assembly i dont think is bent, but when in motion and wheel is straight, the headlight as well as my handlebars point to the left. so the whole assembly needs to be aligned again. and you can see at the main head bolt at the frame that this assembly is off center.

i may go with your euro bars then for long ride comfort, i mean the special bars have alot of pull back but i think the rise would wear me out. still an option though, i can always return them if i dont like the feel of them.

ive been riding for about 2 years now. longest ride ive been on is 3 hours, and my rear was pretty numb afterwards, but that was the stock seat on a honda CM400A. ill be doing alot more riding once i get this thing going, then i should be ready for those long rides.

 

[nitrofish1]

puttin in work! got the front tire off, the chain side guard, packed it up to take home to fix the front brakes, new tires, and cleaning/synching the carbs this weekend. very much still in progress

 

[drewpy]

puttin in work! got the front tire off, the chain side guard, packed it up to take home to fix the front brakes, new tires, and cleaning/synching the carbs this weekend. very much still in progress

I'm calling your workshop " the meat locker"

 

[nitrofish1]

I'm calling your workshop " the meat locker"

well then drewpy.... "the meat locker", I seem to be taking a strange likeness to that name, as well as my work space. gonna get a shelf in the back there of my 5x10 storage site that i call my "shop area" so i can set out parts for cleaning. then the real work begins! i got my laundry list together of all that i need to do, its daunting, but if i clean one section of parts a day, be done in no time. the tough part will be cleaning the engine.

don't forget the bikes name, "Sheniqua"

 

[bcware]

My engine was a total mess when I pulled it; the whole bottom side was black and and under the sprocket cover was just gross. I set out a metal drip tray used for oil changes, put the engine on it, sprayed it with engine degreaser liquid/foam/gel and scrubbed with a brush.

 

[nitrofish1]

My engine was a total mess when I pulled it; the whole bottom side was black and and under the sprocket cover was just gross. I set out a metal drip tray used for oil changes, put the engine on it, sprayed it with engine degreaser liquid/foam/gel and scrubbed with a brush.

mine could probably use the same treatment. the bottom is relatively clean but when i pulled that sprocket cover off hardened oil chunks were comin out. need to go pick some up then. wont be detailing the inside of that cover, but the outside so itll get some attention.

 

[bcware]

I cleaned the inside of that sprocket cover because all that junk is coming from a leaking push-rod seal. If it isn't clean you won't be able to tell if it is still leaking. You might have the same leak if it's oily in there.