Starting my project

bcware said:
I cleaned the inside of that sprocket cover because all that junk is coming from a leaking push-rod seal. If it isn't clean you won't be able to tell if it is still leaking. You might have the same leak if it's oily in there.
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i suspect its just old chain lube in there, but ill have to do that and keep my eyes open for that.


is there a standard torquing chat for these random bolts and such? like i know theres torque values for the front and rear end drive stuff, but items such as the carb holder bolts and these sprocket cover bolts were pretty tight, probably from age, but would it be good to use a standard torque value on these for the size bolt or should i just be german torquing the ones that arent specified?
 
there are specific torque specs mentioned in the Yam service manual. But it also gives some general ones too..
 

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The axles are about 76 ft lbs, yes. Axles sometimes have a range listed as well, so the value can vary a bit. That being said, do not use general torque specs like the ones Drewpy posted if there is a specific torque spec for that item in the manual, like the axle.

I torque the critical and moving parts as stated in the manual, but if there is no torque spec mentioned or it isn't on the list I go with "snug." I've heard this from mechanics as well.
 
bcware said:
The axles are about 76 ft lbs, yes. Axles sometimes have a range listed as well, so the value can vary a bit. That being said, do not use general torque specs like the ones Drewpy posted if there is a specific torque spec for that item in the manual, like the axle.

I torque the critical and moving parts as stated in the manual, but if there is no torque spec mentioned or it isn't on the list I go with "snug." I've heard this from mechanics as well.
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well im starting disassembly next week. need to tag all the wires so i dont miss which ones go where..... then somehow get the engine off of it (how much do they weigh anyways? 200?). then its cleaning time, did go buy a can of engine degreaser, and a metric ton of brakleen. then fun is about to begin
 
Maybe 100 or so, it's just awkward. It felt pretty light to me, but I could be wrong. I took the side covers off and grabbed from the head below the exhaust studs and the kick start shaft. Watch your balance; the heads will cause the entire engine to rotate along a strange axis (center of mass).
 
bcware said:
Maybe 100 or so, it's just awkward. I took the side covers off and grabbed from the head below the exhaust studs and the kick start shaft.
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once i get that off of there i shouldnt have any issues. not even getting it home to clean and polish. now getting it back on, may be a whole other can of worms, guess i just gotta have the mounts ready and lift it to get that front bolt then im good to go.
 
I am going to have a second person help with putting it back in because I painted the frame and want to protect it as much as I can. It would also be nice to have someone steady the chassis so it doesn't move or tip off the side stand should you struggle at all.
 
bcware said:
I am going to have a second person help with putting it back in because I painted the frame and want to protect it as much as I can. It would also be nice to have someone steady the chassis so it doesn't move or tip off the side stand should you struggle at all.
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the bike will be going back together about mid january, idc how cold it is out there.... so these next few months will be filled with grinding the frame, polishing the engine, getting new parts on there, de-rusting every single piece of hardware on that bike, and then when its warm, putting the carbs and tank on, getting her running again. modifying the carbs and exhaust after that, then its removal of electric start, if and only if, the bike is running correctly with the new carbs and such, tuned idle, etc.... do not want to have a kicker with a fuel problem that doesnt want to stay running at stoplights.
 
bcware said:
I am going to have a second person help with putting it back in because I painted the frame and want to protect it as much as I can. It would also be nice to have someone steady the chassis so it doesn't move or tip off the side stand should you struggle at all.
Click to expand...

tip for you BC, use 15mm pipe lagging, very cheap and you just fix with masking tape. fix it all over the tubing. there is always a time where you need to rest the bike on the frame as you manipulate it, this will stop any scratches.

lean the front down slightly when putting in too!
 
Lay the engine on it's side on some padding and put the frame over the engine. It's a lot lighter than picking up the engine and with two people is dead simple to do.
 
I found that installing the motor mounts/bolts with the bike on its side is difficult because they are hard to reach on the side facing the ground. Any tips?
 
I had the engine on its right hand side on a mattress and put in the front and top mounts and the bottom rear. It was easy to squash down the mattress and reach them to get the nuts on :shrug: Maybe some models have different engine fixtures...

Not sure what you mean Drew by the head stock rear mounts?

I will say my engine is not painted so that wasn't a worry. My frame is out being powdered coated at the moment so I will be doing it for real (dry build last time) in a week or so. I will still be covering the frame with some pipe lagging or something.
 
I think there was supposed to be a comma in there: head stock, rear mounts, etc

Head stock sounds like a guitar term :laugh:
 

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