Steering head taper bearing swap

Buddha

XS400 Addict
Top Contributor
Messages
186
Reaction score
120
Points
43
Location
Alberta, Canada
Swapping out the ball bearings for taper bearings on both bikes. It's pretty straight forward.

So assuming all pieces are removed down to the bare steering head assembly.
IMG_2632.jpg


Remove the steering head crown bolt and crown to access the steering head spanner nut.
IMG_2633.jpg


Wrap a piece of wire around frame and steering head under bracket so it doesn't fall out. Remove the spanner nut and bearing cover. The upper ball bearing is now exposed.
IMG_2634.jpg


Remove upper ball bearing race and ball bearings.
IMG_2635.jpg


Wire can now be undone and steering head under bracket can be lowered from steering column.
IMG_2636.jpg


Picture of lower ball bearing and seal.
IMG_2637.jpg


Using a blunt chisel tap side to side to remove the lower ball bearing race and seal from steering head under bracket shaft.
IMG_2645.jpg


Picture of ball bearing race in steering column. There is one upper and one lower.
IMG_2638.jpg


Using a long taper punch, alternate punching side to side to remove upper and lower bearing races.
IMG_2639.jpg


Picture of upper bearing race removed.
IMG_2640.jpg


Clean the steering column of all crud, wash, wipe and blow until clean (this is a before clean picture).
IMG_2641.jpg


All Balls steering bearing kit.
IMG_2642.jpg


Kit consists of upper and lower cones, outer races and seals.
IMG_2643.jpg


The unique thing about this kit is that the seals 'snap' and seat onto the inner cone race. This is important to keep in mind.
IMG_2644.jpg


Use the old ball bearing race as a tool along with a socket and hammer to install the upper and lower outer cone races.
IMG_2649.jpg


Picture of outer race installed. It's tricky but take grease and coat the entire inside surface of the steering column lightly. This helps prevent rust forming on the bare metal from atmospheric moisture.
IMG_2647.jpg


Pack the bearings. Snap lower seal onto the inside race of the lower cone bearing. Install assembly on steering head under bracket shaft. A 12" piece of 1 3/8 .090" DOM tubing is perfect for fitting over the shaft and seating on the inner race to set the bearing and seal. Coat the shaft with a light film of grease to prevent rust.
IMG_2650.jpg

IMG_2651.jpg



Coat the upper and lower outer bearing races with grease. Insert the steering head under bracket assembly and hold in place with previous wire. Install the upper bearing cone and seal (insure the seal is snapped onto inner race). Install the bearing cover and spanner nut. Tighten nut until it will not turn then back off til there is slight preload on bearings as you turn assembly back and forth a few times. Install steering head crown and crown bolt (the forks will need to be installed to insure proper alignment of assembly prior to final torquing of the crown bolt).
IMG_2652.jpg

IMG_2654.jpg


***Important Note***
Once everything was assembled I did notice that the distance between the steering head crown and the steering head under bracket has increased by ~1/8".
 
Last edited:
So I've been bombarded with the question as to why the ~1/8" difference after the taper bearing install.
Measured assembled ball bearing height and assembled cone bearing height.
Cone bearing = .507"
Ball bearing = .479"
Thats an increase of .028" per bearing, x2 = .056"
Then because the seal metal body adds to the cone bearing thickness add .025" per seal, x2 = .050"
.056" + .050" = .106" difference in height more that the ball bearing set up.
Not quite the ~1/8" (.125") but close, anyhoo at 60 mph who's going to notice???
IMG_2657.jpg
 
Back
Top