Tach connection at the engine

[filterx]

Hey All.

82 DOHC

During my restore last year, I pulled the tach cable and low and behold, the PO had removed the actual cable from inside the sleeve. I got a new cable assembly from another member here and when I went to install, it appear's that the PO sheared off the bolt #5 in the attached pic inside the head

I've got access to a 90d angled drill so I may be able to drill out the broken bolt with the engine in place but...

1) Do the part's #1 to #4 actually come out easily when the bolt is removed????

2) If so, any suggestion's other than a 90d drill to remove the sheared bolt????

I'm not really to worried about the tach not working but it would be nice.

The attached pic is the OEM microfiche from BikeBandit for 1982 Yamaha Maxim 400 XS400J Parts

Thank's in advance

 

[bcware]

It is unlikely #1 and #4 can be removed without taking the valve cover off. On my SOHC there is an e-clip/circlip holding it in place from the inside. There is really no reason to remove them though; you just need to get #5 out.

I have had this happen before too on another bike, but I didn't attempt to remove the bolt with the motor in the bike. It may need to be pulled if the clearance is very tight. If you can't get at it I would not risk destroying your valve cover.

I am pretty sure the DOHCs are extremely easy to drop out of the frame.

 

[filterx]

Yeah - I'm pretty sure I'm just going to leave it.

I did have the upper motor mount's to frame off last year when I was checking my coils so that would have been the ideal time to remove the valve cover. I had pulled the #5 bolt and had noticed that a bit was sheared off but didn't realize the importance till I had everything back together.

Thx bcware..

Anyone else will a DOHC have any comment's??

TIA

 

[bcware]

You shouldn't need to remove the valve cover to get just the bolt (#5) out. It might even be possible to pivot the motor out of the frame without removing it completely.

 

[willem]

yea the engine can pivot out if you take off both the upper engine mounts and the upper one of the lower two. Just loosen the bottom one before taking out the others so you don't damage anything. Use a jack or something with which you can gently pivot the engine downwards (a rope could also work if you suspend the engine with that). You shouldn't even have to take the chain off.

although it may be easier to work on when you take the valve cover off anyways, that's also an easy job! You should do the valve clearances too while you're in there

 

[arfstrom]

Oh wow, I am jumping onto this bandwagon, I am trying to get mine off of the 81 sisters series.

So just like the younger brother, I have parts 1-5, and 6 is removed, and the circlip is removed.

So from what I am understanding is the gear will come out that same hole? Thanks

Is there a potential set screw on part #2?

Tobie

 

[xschris]

You need to tap out part #2 then the gear will slide up and out.

 

[arfstrom]

As always, your the best chris

 

[arfstrom]

Just to finish up what I ended up doing. Part 4, the washer plate, is a rubber coated metal washer. That was blocking part 2 from being extracted. I used small flat bladed screw drivers, and when I was getting frustrated, I took a propane torch to the hole. I had already dug out most of the rubber, but then part#2 was not sliding though. So the torch helped remove it, and now I am ready to get it powder coated. I was using a standard #2 type flat screw driver, and attempting to wedge on the head end of the gear, and that really was just doing a trampoline effect. It would slide down, but not budge. I hope this helps someone. Take care
Tobie