Used proper oil, clutch sticking now

[NewHavenMike]

hey guys.

So when i got my buke running, i used Castrol 4T 10-40 dino oil.

Started bike up, was able to put it in gear at idle and have smooth clutch operation..

Bike sat all winter and come recently i replaced the clutch push rod seal and replaced oil with Valvoline 20-50 bike oil..

Now, clutch tends to stick and it stalls when i put it in gear. Clutch grabs inconsistently, but works as it should. I have to rev it up so I doesnt stall when i put it in 1st.

Is Valvoline no good? Bad mix? Any ideas besides going back to castrol?

I should also state that the engine has about 3 miles on it since a full rebuild.

 

[xschris]

It's not the oil as I have been using 20w-50 valvoline bike oil for wet clutches in all my bikes for years without any issues. My guess it's something to do with the rebuild or adjustments. Make sure you have all the same oil in it.

 

[Jeff0133]

Rotella T6 will work also, anything rated JASO MA...

 

[Jeff0133]

Stalling when under load....carbs related perhaps?

 

[NewHavenMike]

It only stalls when i pull the clutch and put it in gear while its idling. It didnt do that when i used the Castrol. The bike runs very stable idle just over 1200, despite having only bench synced the carbs.. I am going to fine-tune when the build is complete

I thought it was odd because i have (temp)shorty pipes on and it screams right to redline with no power loss or hesitation.

 

[db3]

Did you every figure out what the cause of this was? I'm having the same issues when I pull in the clutch.

 

[NewHavenMike]

Dug this one out of the archives...

Honestly, I dont remember. The engine had 3 miles on it, couldve been anything. I do recall removing the clutch and inspecting it and cleaning it off. I do continue to use only Castrol Go 4T motorcycle oil, which I order by the case because the auto stores never carry enough. I did end up having to replacing the throttle shaft seals on the carbs, but I think it was mainly the cleaning of the clutch because my bike sat for years with a seized engine and half the clutch was dry.

Welcome.

 

[XSLeo]

Often stalling like the op talked about is because of clutch drag. This can be fixed by proper clutch and cable adjustment.
Along with proper adjustment a well lubed actuator and cable with the cable having as few tight bends as possible.
Leo

 

[db3]

The search feature might work too well. I have messed with the adjustment a decent amount. I pulled the clutch plates and soaked them in oil and seem to have the same issues as before. The bike sat with no oil in it for a year or two so maybe a good cleaning is needed. My clutch cable, when properly adjusted, only disengages about 5mm and the rear tire needs to be worked before it moves freely with the clutch disengaged in gear.

 

[XSLeo]

Anything that increases friction in the cable and actuator cause the cable to stretch more than it should. Thinks like no lube, the wrong lube and tight bends. This extra stretch prevents the pressure plate from opening fully.
The best cable lube is engine oil. My lawn mower uses a straight 30w oil, This works very well for the cable. The method I use it works best with cable off the bike. Hang the cable up by one end. Around this upper end build a funnel out of kitchen foil. Seal it well around end of cable housing. Now pour the funnel full of the oil. Let set. check on the cable every few hours Add more oil when needed.
Eventually the oil will work it's way down the cable and come out the lower end. At this point you can put it back on the bike. Working the cable core up and down speeds things up a bit. I have an extra cable all lubed. Just swap them out and lube the one for next time.
I have one of those cable lube gizmo's that you hook a spray can to lube. I use this with a cleaner, Brake, carb whatever is handy.
Spray the cleaner through the cable. It will flush out the old oil and some of any rust. Spray, let soak, spray. Repeat till clean spray comes out.
On the actuator remove from bike, disassemble, clean and lube. The same chassis grease you put in the swing arm works well.
Once clean, greased and reassembled and back on bike you adjust the actuator and cable. You might just find things work better.
Leo

 

[NewHavenMike]

Oh yes thats right, I did replace the clutch cable and it made a big difference in clutch feel and engagement.

 

[XSLeo]

New cables need lube before you use them. They come dry. They have to assemble from clean, dry cable cores. The solder they use only sticks the clean dry cable. Any grease or oil on the cable during soldering and the knob won't stick to the cable.
Once assembled they pack and ship. You get to do the lube.
Leo

 

[Balarrasa]

hi! wouldn´t like to sound as patronizing but....did you oil the new clutch friction disks before?

 

[amc49]

You're supposed to presoak the discs in oil before assembly but not 100% needed, the clutch throws so much oil around that it lubes them pretty quick. I've assembled engines both ways before with zero issue other than the clutch may act up a bit the first time you use it if you use it the second you start the new engine.

If the clutch action changes with an oil weight change you simply re-adjust it slightly for the different weight oil to account for the drag difference. Be aware though that some automotive oils are too slick and can make a clutch slip where it didn't before. Because the zinc replacement chemicals are actually more slippery than the zinc was, the zinc comes as zinc dithiophosphate; they removed it because phosphates are considered EPA pollution. Why you use JASO rated oil for bikes only, it still has zinc in it. But you'll pay more for it.