Nice project.
Comments on some parts
- I settled on Mobil1 10-40 Racing 4T a while back, it really slicks up the gearbox and is easily found in Autozone and similar stores.
- the quantity and viscosity of fork oil have nothing to do with ride height. The proper way to set fork oil level is spring out, fork fully compressed, measure from top of tube to oil level. That way, both forks have same volume of air above them. The smaller that volume, the more of an air spring you have, as you're compressing the air every time the forks compress. The thicker the oil, the slower the damping action. The springs set the ride height. You should have about an inch, or maybe a bit more of fork compression with no load. That is considered sag and is necessary.
- when you snug up the front axle nut, be sure to then loosen the clamp on the opposite side, push the forks up and down multiple times, the tubes will then be parallel, and you can tighten the bottom caps. Otherwise, the forks bind.
- the next time you pull the forks, remove the original ball bearing steering head bearings and fit tapered roller bearings. Same for the swingarm bushings: replace with the bronze bushings from MikesXS. if the inner bearing tube ( the one that the pivot bolt goes through) is pitted or scored, replace it too. Both of these things will dramatically improve the handling. I looked, but didn't see that you had done either.
- Dennis Kirk used to sell spark plug wire splices made by NGK. You cut off the coil wire several inches from the coil. Then you screw on the coupler. Same to the new wire. It works just like plug cap does at the wire end; use silicone dielectric grease.
Nice build, good job.
I like how the engine becomes black pained finish photo by photo, one cover at a time. Or it sure looks that way.
