XS360 Regulator/Rectifier Wireing

[hopper055]

Hello Everyone, I just bought first street bike and am in need for some help. I have a 1977 XS360 that my research tells me is almost identical to a XS400. I am trying to run a SH232-12 Regulator/rectifier (Diagram shown below). And I am trying to follow Wallster's wiring diagram. (also below). Now i have a few questions.

1. Every diagram I see has 3 white wires coming out of the Alternator mine has 4 but one is terminated at the pigtail is that normal?

2. I have the alternator pigtail soldered to the reg/rec. is it true that the white wires just go into the yellow wires in any order?

3. Where do my remaining wires go? I know my alternator is field excited so it needs power but I'm not sure where they hook up and I'm not even sure I can use my current reg/rec on this bike. I know what to do with the reg rec wires and I know to not use the yellow wire but what do I do about the remaining wires not being used That attached to the old regulator?

While looking at the diagrams it looks like I just omit the voltage regulator and bring the black/red wire and green wire to ground Is that correct?

 

[BBS360]

Just on the end of my lunch break. Can answer in more detail later but you are correct, you will need a separate regulator to handle the field coil.
Doesn't necessarily mean you can't use the one you have. Can likely use it in place of the rectifier and it will act more like a power conditioner.

 

[hopper055]

Just on the end of my lunch break. Can answer in more detail later but you are correct, you will need a separate regulator to handle the field coil.
Doesn't necessarily mean you can't use the one you have. Can likely use it in place of the rectifier and it will act more like a power conditioner.

First I would like to thank you for your time helping me. I was starting to think I might have asked a real dumb question.

Now about your reply.

I bought this bike titled for $100 from a friend. A PO wired it incorrectly without any fuses so it suffered a melted harness prior to me owning it. My friend gave me this reg/rec with it. And said that it was all I needed. So long story short I'm not dead set on this reg rec. I don't mind buying another to make this Bike reliable. What would be my best course of action? I am currently rewireing the entire bike from scratch so my options are open.

EDIT: Ok I have reread some threads (links below) and believe that I have figured it out. Like said above I need a regulator to run the field coil to get my bike to charge. So I can get the r-292 regulator and with this reg/rec I'll have a reliable solid state charging system. This reg/rec was made for a honda cb that regulates the output of the altetnator. Our bikes regulate the input that is the reason for the seperate regulator. Is this right?

I'm sorry for not grasping this right away. This is far from my first time working on small motors like this. My other hobbies is working on/riding old three wheelers I have wired them before but this is an entirely different animal.

Thank you again

(I have read both of these threads prior to posting I promise. I don't know why it didn't "click".)

http://www.xs400.com/threads/chargi...ltage-regulator-or-dead-charging-system.7567/

http://www.xs400.com/threads/need-some-rectifier-regulator-input-from-some-gurus.16249/

 

[NewHavenMike]

IMO, you should get original parts just to get it in a running state..

I bought a newer solid state regulator from the XS400. For whatever reason, it didnt work. I ended up using the original mechanical regulator and rectifier and I havent had any problems at all. The only issue with the original units is that they are two separate parts that may be bulky for cafe builds and the mechanical regulator is said to be less reliable. I think its a must that you replace it if you go to a lithium battery..?

But they are inexpensive to buy and they are plug and play to the original harness. You also NEED a fuse box lol, which is also very inexpensive.

Get a manual too if you havent already

 

[hopper055]

IMO, you should get original parts just to get it in a running state..

I bought a newer solid state regulator from the XS400. For whatever reason, it didnt work. I ended up using the original mechanical regulator and rectifier and I havent had any problems at all. The only issue with the original units is that they are two separate parts that may be bulky for cafe builds and the mechanical regulator is said to be less reliable. I think its a must that you replace it if you go to a lithium battery..?

But they are inexpensive to buy and they are plug and play to the original harness. You also NEED a fuse box lol, which is also very inexpensive.

Get a manual too if you havent already

I'm rewireing this from scratch the old harness was melted and I'm replacing all the lighting on this bike with more modern units. so compatibility with the stock harness isnt a concern. I do have a manual. And I'm already planning on upgrading the fuses to modern blade type. It was my understanding that newer solid stat regulators would be more reliable than what came on the bike stock. If the reliability of the new units are questionable I'll probably go with a stock type.

Thank you very much for your input.

 

[BBS360]

1. Every diagram I see has 3 white wires coming out of the Alternator mine has 4 but one is terminated at the pigtail is that normal?

That's normal. Some bikes have the fourth wire but only one year used it (for a headlight relay).
For trivia's sake it's the center point of the wye-type three phase alternator. In power wiring it would be the neutral

2. I have the alternator pigtail soldered to the reg/rec. is it true that the white wires just go into the yellow wires in any order?

Any order as long as they are the three that carry through the connector. Omit the unused one.
I'd consider using connectors rather than soldering.

3. Where do my remaining wires go? I know my alternator is field excited so it needs power but I'm not sure where they hook up and I'm not even sure I can use my current reg/rec on this bike. I know what to do with the reg rec wires and I know to not use the yellow wire but what do I do about the remaining wires not being used That attached to the old regulator?

As you've discovered, they connect to the separate regulator.

While looking at the diagrams it looks like I just omit the voltage regulator and bring the black/red wire and green wire to ground Is that correct?

Lol, I only just looked at that wiring diagram closely.
It wouldn't work. They've provided no positive supply to the field coil. I've seen various versions of that diagram posted. Have tried to fix a few but alas....

This looks doable. I would wire the black sense wire as shown.

I bought this bike titled for $100 from a friend. A PO wired it incorrectly without any fuses so it suffered a melted harness prior to me owning it. My friend gave me this reg/rec with it. And said that it was all I needed. So long story short I'm not dead set on this reg rec. I don't mind buying another to make this Bike reliable. What would be my best course of action? I am currently rewireing the entire bike from scratch so my options are open.

I don't think there's any huge reason NOT to use it. See below.

EDIT: Ok I have reread some threads (links below) and believe that I have figured it out. Like said above I need a regulator to run the field coil to get my bike to charge. So I can get the r-292 regulator and with this reg/rec I'll have a reliable solid state charging system. This reg/rec was made for a honda cb that regulates the output of the altetnator. Our bikes regulate the input that is the reason for the seperate regulator. Is this right?

You've got it pretty well. Since you are making the wiring harness from scratch you could use the R292 or VR-125 (or any number of other aftermarket regs for excited field alternators but let's stick with the two we know). The wiring is slightly different depending on which version is used but I believe using the VR125 and wiring accordingly would be slightly safer for the reg in the unlikely occurrence of a short in the stator.
People have used both and reported no issues either way so I'd use whichever you can find cheap.

You're right, the 292/125 regulates the alternator input to indirectly achieve a certain output. The SH232 regulates the alternator output with electronic circuitry. It's for bikes without field coils and that cannot control that input.
The two should coexist just fine. The 292/125 is required to excite the field coil. The SH232 will perform the function of the rectifier and still regulate/condition the output down to safe levels.
In a way the 292/125 regulate the voltage up to at least minimum levels, and the SH232 will regulate the voltage down below excessive voltages.
Ideally this results in your voltage staying in the sweet spot.

It's how my XS360 is wired. An aftermarket field coil regulator and a modern reg/rec off a CBR125. Voltage creeps up with RPMs but never exceeds approximately 14.5V, keeping my AGM battery happy. Might do the same for my 400 since I bought a lithium battery for it.

 

[spectra]

I found this when I was re wiring ,y bike and it actually helped as I am one who likes to see it.

Also there are a few diagrams out there for rewiring an entire bike from scratch.

I ended up buying a newer unit and it is an all in one set up and works great.

 

[BBS360]

Some people seem to have nothing but trouble getting their combo reg/recs to work.
I've noticed a lot of the combos don't specify which year of XS400 they work for.
The wiring changed for the bikes with electronic regulators but the suppliers don't seem to know that it does make a difference.

 

[hopper055]

Lol, I only just looked at that wiring diagram closely.
It wouldn't work. They've provided no positive supply to the field coil. I've seen various versions of that diagram posted. Have tried to fix a few but alas....


You've got it pretty well. Since you are making the wiring harness from scratch you could use the R292 or VR-125 (or any number of other aftermarket regs for excited field alternators but let's stick with the two we know). The wiring is slightly different depending on which version is used but I believe using the VR125 and wiring accordingly would be slightly safer for the reg in the unlikely occurrence of a short in the stator.
People have used both and reported no issues either way so I'd use whichever you can find cheap.

You're right, the 292/125 regulates the alternator input to indirectly achieve a certain output. The SH232 regulates the alternator output with electronic circuitry. It's for bikes without field coils and that cannot control that input.
The two should coexist just fine. The 292/125 is required to excite the field coil. The SH232 will perform the function of the rectifier and still regulate/condition the output down to safe levels.
In a way the 292/125 regulate the voltage up to at least minimum levels, and the SH232 will regulate the voltage down below excessive voltages.
Ideally this results in your voltage staying in the sweet spot.

It's how my XS360 is wired. An aftermarket field coil regulator and a modern reg/rec off a CBR125. Voltage creeps up with RPMs but never exceeds approximately 14.5V, keeping my AGM battery happy. Might do the same for my 400 since I bought a lithium battery for it.

How do I supply a positive feed to the field coil?

And I believe I will go the r-292 route because it is the easiest for me to get my hands on.

I am looking for a small battery to run all this off of. Ill go AGM with 1.8AH 12V the trouble is finding one that will handle the 15v cycle use. The sellers I find don't list the cycle use and I'm worried about over charging one of these batteries to fast.

Thank you again for your reply.


P.S. I do have a connector on my alternator wires. I soldered the reg/rec wires to the stock connector so could remove/replace it at a later date.

 

[BBS360]

Just at work again.
Wire the 292 as per instructions in the other thread and you should take care of the field coil feed.

I'm not familiar with the 232 but it should regulate the voltage below 15v.
See if you can find specs on it that mention the voltage set point. Hopefully it's more like 14.5.