you can’t tell if fork tubes are bent prior to rebuilding them LOL. You can’t see 2mm from bird shit. Leave this poor man alone.
for your pods- silicone the outside at cap, fill each little seam up. I silicone the inlet and outlet at the seams to the cap/outlet rubber, if you wish to restrict even more air- safety wire a shop vac internal filter sock over your pods. They’re like $4 each. You probably have 37.5 or 40 pilot jets but you need 42.5 or 45.
with a warm engine with choke off- when you rev up in RPM and chop it off- it should not “hang on” - it should accept the throttle being off and not hesitate to idle.
if you still have issues- your buttlerfly assembly should show the light of day with slide fully seated.
also- your engine breather- go big with the tubing. I run a 351w PCV valve to a can because racecar but you’re fine going to a breather / atmosphere.
also check your voltage to the coils and make sure you don’t have voltage loss from the key to the coil.
Take a infrared covid style thermometer and shoot at the flat surface at each spark plug. You want 208-212°F at idle/warm engine (even under load). Hotter = lean. Colder = rich.
As far as the floats- unless you’re flooding out OR you are looking for a little more because WOT and racecar- check your float levels. The float level (if somewhat in spec- can be off and run fine) will only matter during extended periods of 1/2 or more throttle and you are feeding through lets say 3.74mm total which is 1.87mm total of ID of the holes fuel can travel through TO the cylinder head FROM the float bowl. Moves through (1) 1.4mm home and (1) .4mm hole for each carburetor. Adjust the tang / floats as needed and go from there. Yes- the jet sizes have the mm silent so you can buy brass plugs of the same thread pitch and buy micro drill bits and make your own or I can sell you some.
