Pressure Plate Bolt Torque

keith

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Hello xs400 forum. I've got a 1977 xs360 that I'm rebuilding the clutch on.
Here is the issue. I've messed up two inner hubs by over-tightening the pressure plate springs. What is the proper torque. I've read and reread the manual and the haynes book, but cannot find anything concerning pressure plate bolt torque. I really dont want to break a third inner hub....
 
... I've read and reread the manual and the haynes book, but cannot find anything concerning pressure plate bolt torque ....
I don't know if this could be any help or not, however I did look up the service manual for the DOHC 400.
The diagram for the clutch show a nut near the end of the push rod and the manual says the tightening torque for this nut is 70 Nm (7.0m.kg, 50 ft.lb).
Caution though - it may be a lot less for your sohc but not likely to be higher. Take care and best of luck!
 
Are you talking about the 4 bolts with the clutch springs under them? If I recall correctly there is no given torque value in the Hayne's; it just said something like "screw them in all the way."

I simple screwed mine in until I felt some resistance; they should just be "in all the way" and it should feel kind of "snug." There is no need to kill it or add any significant torque; remember, there is a spring under each bolt and this will keep them from walking out just like a spring washer.
 
Not sure if this is the right bolt, but here is an excerpt from the SOHC manual (the torque is quite a bit lower than for the DOHC) - pg. 1278:
 

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primary gear bolt is on the end of the crankshaft :wtf:

spring screws are 6 - 8.5 ft lb and I use thread lock too
 
Hey! You guys are awesome! I got it properly torqued and everything seems good. The clutch does seem rather stiff though. I have no reference point since I've never actually riden a motorcycle... How hard should it be to squeeze the clutch lever?
 
My xs400 is definitely significantly harder to squeeze than my modern Ninja 500, but easier than my gsx-r 750 with barnett clutch springs. You'll get used to it. I have a hulk-like grip in my left hand from the racing clutch on my gixxer. When I first started my hands ached in stop and go traffic! These days I have no trouble clutching with one finger.

Depending on your clutch adjustment it is also not necessary to always pull the clutch lever in all the way.
 
Hey! You guys are awesome!
... How hard should it be to squeeze the clutch lever?
Yes we are, every last one of us. :D
I got my bike last spring and the clutch was really hard to pull. The mechanic who certified it improved things a bit by freeing up the piston thingy at the bottom of the cable, but it was still a really strong pull. Last fall, I ran into an old BMW rider (both) and he immediately diagnosed and solved the problem. The cable needed oil.
He had me make a little funnel out of the corner of a plastic bag.
Disconnect the cable from the lever, put the "funnel" over the cable end and wrap it on tight with a couple of rubber bands. If it's floppy, make an outer "funnel" with a piece of aluminum foil to support it. Then prop the cable end pointing up and pour ~ tablespoon of motor oil into the funnel and leave it overnight. It will drip out onto the floor at the bottom end, so put a coffee lid or rag underneath if you don't want an oil stain. Next morning, hook it back up.
I never would have believed it - made a huge difference. I can pull the clutch with one finger now and can't believe I suffered all last summer.
 
sometimes they fray inside and that also prevents the clutch returning causing slip.

I change mine last year even after oiling (i got a fancy hydraulic cable oiler and can do it in 5 mins) and the difference, wow.

tracker is more butch in its operation :)
 
Lubed up the cable and greased the worm gear and holy smokes! Everything feels smooth.
Thanks guys!
 
Sorry to drop in on this, I'm doing the same thing here. I can't find the specs for the torque settings for the engine cover (79 xs400).

I am fracking the 8.5 for the springs with the lock tight. Any help would be great, its suppose to be a great weekend lol
 
Hey man!
I don't recall finding any torque settings for the cover bolts. I just hand tighten them reminding myself this not farm equipment and aluminum is always a little softer than I think. Make sure you use an OEM gasket. I found out the hard way that RTV won't cut it.
[Keith]

Sorry to drop in on this, I'm doing the same thing here. I can't find the specs for the torque settings for the engine cover (79 xs400).

I am fracking the 8.5 for the springs with the lock tight. Any help would be great, its suppose to be a great weekend lol
 
10-12 lbs. for case bolts. And yes always use a gasket. I put some grease on it so if I ever need to get back in there the gasket will not stick.
 
So I'm jumping in here late with a related question about my 82 xs400 seca regarding torque on the big 30mm nut that holds the whole basket assembly on. I had to replace the entire hub and want to make sure I get that nut back on right. Because of the circlip it looks like I can go either kinda tight or really tight.

Can't find specs in the manual I downloaded here - it says shockingly little about the clutch. As someone said above, it tells me to "tighten fully" the 6 spring bolts. Brilliant.

Thanks!
 
So I'm jumping in here late with a related question about my 82 xs400 seca regarding torque on the big 30mm nut that holds the whole basket assembly on. I had to replace the entire hub and want to make sure I get that nut back on right. Because of the circlip it looks like I can go either kinda tight or really tight.

Can't find specs in the manual I downloaded here - it says shockingly little about the clutch. As someone said above, it tells me to "tighten fully" the 6 spring bolts. Brilliant.

Thanks!
Hopefully you've either found the spec. or figured it out! In case you haven't, just found the spec. in my manual. 70nm or 50ft.lb
 

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