Recent content by amc49

Look closer, often the plug wire connection makes coil appear to be bad. I've drilled into one piece coil and wire on Honda four to change the wire only and suddenly coils then work fine again. Gluing the wires back in was a bit messy but saved at least that $75.

https://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xs400/?filters[category]=electrical&filters[fitting]=custom Whacky priced though, the stud sticking out is likely the reason. You could buy coils with no stud and figure a way to mount them to save like $40. The 4 ohm thing doesn't hurt, you just don't...

Likely not, the generator there does not use an excited field at all, it is permag type, the regulator works differently. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1988/virago-535-xv535u/generator

https://www.denniskirk.com/mikuni/36mm-38mm-rubber-flange-adapter-m-vm36-200k.p18850.prd/18850.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=csecid=12208520361&aid=121022591230&keyword=1161767343812%3A%3Apla-1161767343812&kid=1161767343812&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3Krh6cr87wIVnu7jBx3Grg9aEAQYBCABEgJ32vD_BwE As an...

If you luck out and the stud spread is right, you may be able to use some standard type manifolds like typically used on VM Mikuni carbs but you will not have a way to hook up for syncing carbs.

Can you pic that regulator, it seems to be a point type and not really what you want if so.

You absolutely do NOT want to use one carb only on that engine if the crank layout is like the 400, it is not a 360 degree crank like the Triumph is and what allows good sharing of a single carb. The Yamaha is 180 crank and will not work well at all like that, one cylinder messes the other one...

The field coil. Forgive me, thinking of rotating fields with brushes and this one does not have them. Check both ends of filed coil for a grounded condition. Say how you have the 292 wired to Yamaha harness and be exact.

Something from 24-28 max VM Mikuni type and non-CV. You are right, they are the original barbs as I said higher up. Yamaha picked those for bragging only, they are in a normal world way too big for a 125 cc. cylinder, the 250s use 30 in non-race engines and those are 2 strokes with more flow...

Regulator bolted to metal frame will work but need the case scraped of paint to ground, or a short separate wire bolted to case and then to frame. Pull alt cover and check both brush assemblies with positive lead of meter and negative on engine or frame ground point. One brush will show low...

One, that while not impossible, the bike there is somewhat undersized for long trips like that. You'll have to buzz the engine too much to keep up with freeway traffic and premature wear as a result. It will take it for a while.

You should be fine with that.

Yes, eating crow, tastes good. Got to thinking as in 'surely not?' and went looking and found it out. I'm very surprised and firmly convinced the slide action in those will be modded to the hills to make them open fully. Or maybe they don't. That is even bigger than a race carb for that size...

The hair takes the place of the oil. On pipes, all OEM ones serve as a method to slow down exhaust flow slower and slower using progressively more restriction as you go. Not nearly the same effect you get with a straight pipe with low baffling (the noise) to let top speed impulses hit a sudden...

You may need to positively ground the outer regulator case. Past that you will need to know if you have a positive or negative controlled field, they did them both ways. Positive type will have one brush to alt grounded, you can check for it.