flasher relay issue

So this weekend I got around to swapping my original flasher relay for one suitable for LED lights, so for a current-independent relay. Got a relay from the bike shop in town, and they have been there since the 1950's (family business) so I'm pretty sure I got the right kind of relay from them.

The issue I was having with the original flasher relay was that my flashers wouldn't 'flash', they would just turn on constantly. This is due to the aftermarket LED rear turn signals installed on my bike by the PO. The front turn signals are original, so normal bulbs. My cancelling unit has been removed all together.

But with the new LED relay the flashers wouldn't do anything. They won't even turn on at all, never mind flash. What can be the cause? Of course the relay itself could be faulty, but could it also be the setup with two LED lights and two original turn signals? I returned the LED relay Saturday and got my money back from the shop, but the guy in charge who knows about these things wasn't there at the moment so I couldn't ask him.

Anyone have any experience with a similar setup? Did anyone manage to make their flashers flash using LEDs?

does the flasher have (polarity) a plus/minus connection? you may need to move the plug in pins of the socket Brown to +, Brown/White to -

the relays have three pins (both the new and old) so there was only one way to stick the new one on. But you mean to say that the polarity might still be different? So I would have to maybe switch the wires in the connector on my bike?

yes, also does your bike use a single indicator lamp in the dash or two separate indicators?

I have a single indicator light. As thats also an aftermarket dash thing, I'm not sure how that's connected (or if it even is connected)

How about putting some 25W 8 Ohm resistors parallel to each LED turn signal? I heard that that also works, and it would be cheaper as well. I have no problems with soldering in some. Anyone has done this before?

Your 3 pin flasher relay needs to have a ground. It should have power in, load, and ground. The stock wiring does not provide a ground. I'd suggest checking that the Brown and Brown with White wires are connected to the appropriate terminals on your relay, and then taking the remaining wire in the connector and attaching it to a good ground.

The single indicator light, if connected, will be an issue unless both signal circuits have been isolated with diodes.

Installing resistors defeats the main benefit of installing LED's, which is lower power consumption. You shouldn't need to do this.

willem said:

My cancelling unit has been removed all together.

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and with it your ground thru the cancelling unit

16VGTIDave said:

Your 3 pin flasher relay needs to have a ground. It should have power in, load, and ground. taking the remaining wire in the connector and attaching it to a good ground.

The single indicator light, if connected, will be an issue unless both signal circuits have been isolated with diodes.

Installing resistors defeats the main benefit of installing LED's, which is lower power consumption. You shouldn't need to do this.

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good call Dave

Thanks Jayel!

OK this is helpful But how does my stock flasher relay manage to work without a ground then?

I could still install resistors actually, just because they're a lot easier to install (just under the seat instead of inside the frame) and cheaper. And the main benefit of my LEDs is that they look nicer, not so much the power consumption. Although resistors would be the lazy option, and I would feel slightly guilty.

And how will the single indicator become an issue? I suspect the wiring or the bulb in the dash to be faulty there, since the neutral, high beam and oil lights work fine.

Does it matter that the stock flasher works? No. Don't cloud this issue with other facts. Just put the ground wire in and be happy.

The resistors won't help with your flashing issue and will defeat the value of the LED lights - reduced power consumption (why do I have to repeat myself?). If you do install resistors, please let us know so I can chastise and mock you publicly.

The stock wiring had separate indicators. If you join the wiring to have only one indicator, you will have joined the left and right signal circuits and all your turnsignals will be flashing. Diodes must be used to keep the left and right circuits isolated when you connect to the single indicator.

haha okay okay ill try to keep it simple. Just trying to understand the whole idea before going in and testing wires, cross-connecting things and such.

I won't install resistors, and on my current setup not all my indicators go on at the same time (only left or only right), so I think the indicator light is either not connected, or they did place some diodes.

And yes, one benefit of LEDs is the low power consumption. But the goal of the new indicators was achieving better looks due to smaller sized indicators. It's just prioritization I guess.. potato potahto right?

anyways, thanks a bunch guys! I'll let you know how it pans out.

you need cut and ground the green and yellow wire and only run off the two browns.. i did that with a badass little flasher off of a mack truck, i could put alot of lights on that thing lol

16VGTIDave said:

Just put the ground wire in and be happy (why do I have to repeat myself?). If you do install resistors, please let us know so I can chastise and mock you publicly.

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LOL