Trouble shooting electrical: lights signals electrical.

Hi guys, doesthe ike need to e running for the brake and signal lights to work?

Nope, Once the Key is in the "on" position, That energizes starter/coils/ignition. only thing that isn't suppose to turn on is the headlight. That is waiting for power from the stator to kick in. Horn should work 2.

So if your having issues, start with the fuses, and ground, and start with the basics.

thanks tobie. another question, im guessing that all of the signal light components need to be plugged in in order for any of them to work; because they are all on a common ground? i think this, because none of them are hooked up and when i plug a new one in, it does not respond. and i do know that it works. Also, when i turn the power or park switch on with my key (not the starter position) my rear park/running light will work but not the brake part of it. and the light will not work at all while the bike is running; All or most things were working before i took them off the bike to replace or make changes. Any thoughts, i think that its a grounding issue to the fact that they are not all in place at once to complete the ground circuit. the reason i havent hooked all the things back up to see is because i dont have al the signal parts anymore, and i am trying to run aftermarket incandescent signals in the front and led signals and rake light in the back. i know all my fuses are good and the bikes ground is good cause im always checking that every 10 min that there is a problem. thx for any help. if these issues are answered anywhere else on this forum feel free to refer me

all of the signal light components need to be plugged in in order for any of them to work; because they are all on a common ground?

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Yup by default to complete the circuit is a bunch of bullet connectors. Dont be afraid to shine those up as your going though each connector. get yourself some "dielectric grease" coat any or all of these.

Also, when i turn the power or park switch on with my key (not the starter position) my rear park/running light will work but not the brake part of it.

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Sounds Normal

and the light will not work at all while the bike is running

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Hmmm

All or most things were working before i took them off the bike to replace or make changes. Any thoughts,

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Its time to get a 12volt test light. Test light is used to get the visual confirmation of complete circuits that is powered. The alligator clip goes onto any ground point on the bike. Then you can start poking around. Get the right wire diagram here. there are a few of them, per the age of your bike. (thats why my signature line has my bikes vital statistics.

i think that its a grounding issue to the fact that they are not all in place at once to complete the ground circuit. the reason i havent hooked all the things back up to see is because i dont have al the signal parts anymore,

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remember that the bike uses the turn signal light as a ground source is your turn signal lightbulb in place?

and i am trying to run aftermarket incandescent signals in the front and led signals and rake light in the back.

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So this is where the other Successful LED comes in handy, "rectified 100/... from radio shack." or metric bike diode kit from Superbrightled. and the flasher too.

i know all my fuses are good and the bikes ground is good cause im always checking that every 10 min that there is a problem. thx for any help. if these issues are answered anywhere else on this forum feel free to refer me

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If your bike still has the original fuse panel, may need to consider upgrading to blades types. Get things working first. You can use the multimeter with it in continuous mode, and listen to the beeps. The light easier, and you only need one hand to probe connections. We can come here to help you. Don't be afraid to google, and youtube your questions. You will have to make any leaps of conclusions based on the current state of your bike. for instance Untill you get those things for the LED's per the Successfull thread, keep the bike on incandescent till its working right. The only LED swap that has no problems is the Brake light/Tail light. You bike doesn't care, as long as you get the right pair of bulbs.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-accessories/metric-bike-diode-kit/1190/2805/ I haven't seen any chat about this one, but It does the same thing that the recified

Radio Shack and picked up 2 rectifier diodes (100V/3A) for $1.69. In the headlight [/QOUTE]
http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/lf1-s-flat/

Just take your time. one thing at a time, think of the electricity of a flow of water. Goes from the battery to the ...(whatever device your worried about) and if it can't get past this item, what is it? a relay will only work if the right conditions are present, a diode will only let electricity go one way. Power hits the switch, and you pull the switch it works or doesnt.

I have to wait for $$ for me to make this mod. but its on my want list.

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The fuse box is new but still toobs. Tobie, thanks alot u touched on everything. ive got a great color wiring diagram from the diagram thread i think its one from jayel. Cheers

I don't see it in my quick glance, but if I forgot, Clean all the connectors with either sandpaper, or some sort of emery board that your GF/Wife might have (mom if everything else fails). Just enough to freshen up the connections. Use the re-wire thread from the home-page/Tech section for more tips. Lots of tips. have fun

so i have hooked everything back up to stock and found that there seems to be a grounding issue with the lights as the lights work (not blinking though) but only if i ground it out on the bike.

Yup, that it usually, Double check make sure its charging to 14 volts, and your done. Take care

the bikes charging good last time i checked not 14 but somewhere close. The lights are not flashing either. as for ground should i just creat a new ground somewhere?