LED Turn Signal Problems (again)

Yes, Leo is right, installing the indicator before the switch will cause a zero/low load flasher to flash constantly. I should have seen that from the diagram someone put up in the thread earlier. I'm pretty sure the dual diode method is the best way to go. I'll be getting started on this Monday when I can get access to a couple power diodes. I'm hoping my flasher from superbrites gets here soon too so I can test the entire setup.
 
My signals work perfectly, normal rate and no problems. Ep34. I just had to ground the flasher for it to work. Has anyone else tried this? It seems like a lot of people are having trouble getting leds to work. Does this not work for others? $12 and a few minutes work with no resistors to wire. you just have to match the correct flasher terminals to your wires and wire one of the flasher terminals to ground.
 
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Mogie,

Some have tried the Ep34 unsuccessfully (see earlier posts on this and other threads). It may have been they did not wire it correctly or it may have been the specific LEDs they are using or different year bikes may have slight differences in the wiring harness, especially the indicator bulb. Does your indicator bulb work and is it bright enough to see it? With the stock wiring on my 1980 model, the indicator bulb grounds via the incandescent signal bulbs on the opposite side. When using LEDS, it means almost no current flows thru the LED to ground and the indicator bulb is so weak it can barely be seen.

If I didn't already have a LF-S flasher already on order from superbrites I'd give the EP34 a try.
 
I will try the ep34 soon; I'm still in need of a solution and I don't want to use resistors anymore.
 
my stock lights and flasher worked fine but i wanted leds. I wired the leds in and they would not blink with the stock flasher, they just stayed on solid. When I added one incandescent bulb to one side, that side would blink fine-leds and the stock bulb. Then I got the ep 34 and wired it as I described previously and with no incandescent bulbs they flash normal and light up very bright. I don't know specs on the led bulbs off hand but they are very small, seven little leds in each signal i think. I got them from chromeglow, two small ones for the front and an integrated tail light with turn signals for the back. Although I'm pretty sure any bulbs would work with my current setup because I think i tested it with the stock bulbs and also with a tiny single led I had for a liscence plate light. Both worked well.
 
When you say "That will flash just one bulb" are you saying that the LF1-S-Flat isn't designed to be used as a "central hub" for all four turn signals?

I was under the assumption that the LF1-S-Flat could completely replace the stock flasher and that it would operate in conjunction with all four bulbs in a near-same (have to turn off signals manually) manner as the stock one.

If what I'm (perhaps mistakenly) getting from your phrasing is correct, I would need one LF1-S-Flat for each bulb?
I know, we keep pullin' info from you. I appreciate all of the data you're providing :)

@jmd_forest - My '82 is making it difficult to gain access to the stock flasher. Assuming yours is under the tank (like mine), would you be so kind as to make a video on how you're gaining access to yours?
 
Mine is easy to get access to because at the moment the engine is out of the frame, there is no tank or seat on the bike, and the factory air cleaners and air intake are also gone. I'm in the middle of a cafe build having just finished painting the frame, forks, hubs, and miscellaneous items and have gotten it back together as a rolling chassis. I just reinstalled the wiring harness and signals last week, hence the issues with the conversion to LEDS.

I'm pretty sure you will only need one LFS-1 to replace the single factory flasher.
 
Success! The superbrites LFS-1 flasher arrived today. Installed it 12V to original flasher brown wire and Load to original flasher brown/white wire and all 4 signal LEDs flashed whenever the turn signal switch was activated in either direction; as I expected it would due to feedback thru the dash indicator bulb.

Took a run to Radio Shack and picked up 2 rectifier diodes (100V/3A) for $1.69. In the headlight I unplugged the dash connector and pulled the 2 metal fittings (dark green and dark brown wires ) for the turn signal indicator bulb from the connector attached to the main wiring harness and clipped off the metal fittings with about an inch of wire attached. To the fitting with the dark green wire I soldered the ends of both diodes. To the other end of one diode I soldered the dark green wire just cut from the fitting and going into the main wire harness. Then I cut the fitting off the dark brown wire leaving about an inch of wire on the fitting. Next I soldered the dark brown wire just cut from the fitting and going into the main harness to the other diode.

The fitting with the green wire is reinserted into the connector where it came. I then soldered a black wire to the inch long dark brown wire attached to the other fitting and installed the fitting into the connector from where it was removed. The other end of the black wire is connected to ground.

Reconnect the 2 ends of the dash connector pulled apart earlier and test the turn signals.

Note that all soldered fittings were pre fitted with shrink wrap prior to soldering to cover all splices.

Viola! Each side blinks independently and the dash turn signal indicator bulb is bright and clear.

For an added bonus I disconnected the FS1 flasher and reinstalled the original flasher and then wired in the FS1 flasher in series after the original flasher and now I have auto cancel with no ballast resisters. (wire the 12V lead of the FS1 to the L terminal of the original flasher and then the L terminal of the FS1 to the brown/white wire that was originally attached to the original flasher L terminal.
 
When I say the LFS-1 flasher flashes one bulb I mean it will flash with just one LED bulb, it will also flash with up to 150 watts of bulbs.
And 150 watts of LED's is one heck of a lot of LED's.
Leo
 
hey Forest, would you be so kind as to draw us up a diagram of what you did to make your flashers work, i know that you have it written here but a diagram would be truly superb. thx
 
I have a universal motorcycle zero draw flasher on order from superbrites that I expect to take care of the flashing issue (fingers crossed .... the "electronic LED flasher" I bought at the local big box auto store did not work). I have the headlight apart and access to all the internal connections which is how I was able to disconnect the instrument panel lights to verify side to side feedback through the tun signal indicator bulb as I suspected from tracing through the wiring diagram.

I'm puzzled as to why the standard turn signal bulbs on the opposite side don't also light up whenever the turn signal switch is activated, considering the factory wiring has the indicator bulb grounding through those bulbs. It must be the voltage drop and current draw of the indicator bulb doesn't leave enough voltage/current to light the opposite side lights.

Right. In the OE setup 194 indicator bulb only draws something like 1/2W the other 2 signal bulbs (each side) are a total of 8W so they can sink that little bit of current with no chance of glowing, but led's need so little current to light up...
My plan is to replace the indicator bulb with 2 led's cathodes common to a new ground (maybe tapped from one of the other indicators in the cluster) and divide the oval lens into L and R sections.
 
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