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This was the kit I purchased...

Shaft seals. I just replaced mine from an ebay kit. They are a little fussy to do and I had one of the butterfly screw shear off. Use a Drexel to grind off the knerled threads first before removing the screws.

I would check the wires through the relay and maybe thoroughly clean them. Could be the positive cables have internal corrosion and introducing a massive voltage drop.

Harbor freight sells a cheap spark tester you can plug between the plug and pug wire and visually see the spark. Or do the screwdriver trick holding it close to the cylinder and look for spark.

Wow, very cool!

It could be the right coil going bad when it heats up. When it happens, check for actual spark coming out of that side. Depending on the year, it could also be the points for that cylinder or an issue with the TCI box as well.

Oh, didn't some of our models have an AC feed through a diode to the headlight?

When I bought mine I had 115 and 90. It ran, but not well and pretty loud. Turned out my head was cracked as I could hear and feel air pulsing out around the spark plug, but from deeper in the cooling passage beyond the plug. If I were you though I'd start with adjusting the valves first, maybe...

I really like our bikes in white for some reason. Welcome and great looking bike!

Especially in the headlight bucket. Hot wires near a hot bulb can be exciting!

It is a cool project. I remember my 1984 Suzuki GS550 had a factory one that was helpful. On my 78 XS, the only thing I find myself doing as far as gear positions go is occasionally trying to shift into 7th gear. :laugh2: mostly because I ride it pretty easy and I try for maximum fuel economy...

Welcome back!

Welcome! That thing looks really clean! Was it stored in a museum? :lmao:

"Don't print, not to scale", that exactly what a hacker would say to get us to open such a suspicious pdf file. I know you're just trying to steal all my saved kitty cat funny moments and fails videos! :lmao:

Mine also sprayed cleaner out of everything on the first two cleanings, but I had very little rpm responses from adjusting the mixture screws. And the most common cause is a partial blockage or the tip of the screw broken in the carb. I was actually pretty surprised how much gunk pushed out of...

Your pilot jet or passages to the idle mixture screw are clogged. I had mine apart three times with the same unresponsive idle mix screws. It took using a single strand of multi-strand copper wire (10 or 12 gauge I think) to use as a ream and despite spraying brake cleaner through everything...

Welcome!

Before I replaced my shaft seals, I had a lot of popping in the exhaust on deceleration. The mixture was likely so lean that the plugs weren't igniting it in the cylinders and letting the raw fuel into the mufflers.

I run my 78 on 91 octane without any issues, even in hot summer heat here in the states at 95 deg. F (35 C). I also use the Shell Rotella T4 15w40 diesel motor oil as it has the JASO MA2 specification for wet clutches.

Well, you do want the petcock to be able to shut off. My original vacuum petcock also went bad, but to be expected for 40+ year old seals. I tried a rebuild kit on it but it didn't work as there was some pitting in the metal inside thus I changed to a full manual petcock with off/on/reserve...