Search results

i hope he calls me first when he sells it...

sold it today! going to miss this thing..... thank you everyone here for your input, advice, and parts! Never would have made it this far without this forum! Looking at the new FZ-07. Test drove it a few weeks back, loved it and talk about stopping power compared to the XS!

what year and model? what pilot jet size? what main jet size? stock air filter? stock exhaust? timing set? carbs synched w manometer? there could be a number of things but without a ton more info its an impossible guess... when in doubt clean the carbs again yourself and take note of the jet...

will run with out filters... probably not well since its tuned to run with filters. would make sure the whole pilot circuit is clean.. hit every hole with cleaner and compressed air. (make sure diaphragms are out before using any carb cleaner)

take it off, cut to size, used the section you removed to trace the shape of the rounded part on whats left and use a grinder to shape it. had to add a small bolt through the top of the fender through the frame brace under the seat.

been a while went to a Yamaha demo last weekend... rode most of the '17 line up including the XSR which was amazing... made me realize how terrible my front brake is.... already have a MC rebuild kit and new pads on the way. Also waiting on new chain and new front and rear sprockets. Does...

can find people who make custom stainless lines for pretty cheap on fleabay

fully disassemble and clean carbs...I had issues with a pinhole leak in the brass float was causing it fill with fuel and well, not float. Dial in the fuel level/float height as described in the manual check for air leaks around the boots and and butterfly seals. new plugs are cheap too..

huh, i thought xschris bought all the 400s to be had in NY

both of them yes

check for leaks around boots and butterfly seals...check floats for holes and make sure they are at he correct height.. figure in the manual was wrong i think its supposed to be around 27mm dont quote me on that. Since you have a manual PC make sure both barbs on the intake boots are capped...

i got mine for around $300 as well.. went through the carbs several times, new rubber, new battery, new bars, $200-300 later it was good to go for rest of the season

$300 is a solid price as long as everything is straight. Check for obvious signs of a wreck and oil leaks... Check the compression wet and dry. Make sure all the electronics work. Check inside tank for rust. not sure about laws in MI but make it has a title

looks great! love the USD forks wish i had the time and money for a front fork swap

Dont use a socket wrench to turn the motor over... if you dont have a 17mm wrench go get a cheap one or use a breaker bar. Using a socket makes it far to easy for the motor to over rotate or swing back, ask me how I know lol. I spent 20 mins just trying to get it to LT mark before it dawned on...

+1 on the part ID

awesome find... where do you find em

nearly impossible to find rear MC kit at least it was for me. There are caliper kits and pistons available.. took the MC apart and cleaned all parts and passages thoroughly w a fine wire, new brake line and have not had any issues with the caliper dragging and locking up once heated up. At least...

are they in decent shape? folks on this site are always looking for stock set ups

im 170lbs 32psi up front and around 38psi in the back... Kenda Challengers Dave what would you say is a solid operating temp? Im sure it changes depending on weather and manufacturer, just curious. Ever since i bought one of those IR guns i never shy away from pointing it at stuff and the lady...