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There are only 3 wires that go to the toggle I think...the other wires go to other connections in the left hand control like the horn and the headlight hi/lo. If you need a new left hand control just find one on ebay.

I would just try to find a working starter and save the hassle of rebuilding... These could possibly work (although they aren't listed for your bike so I'm not 100% positive)...

It could be the connections inside the actual switch. These cause issues for many people. And when they are loose and bouncing around things will sometimes work, sometimes not, sometimes cause a short, etc.

Amazon.com I have this one and it is pretty nice: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those switches have solder joints (3 of them) that are terrible about breaking...and they are hard to solder back together. You would have to take the individual components out to see the actual part where the wires are soldered coming into the switch. If they are broken they will sometimes work...

Thanks everyone, but it was just the broken solder joints in the replacement switch that I had bought. I got a refund for that one and bought one from someone else...worked like a champ. I just shouldn't have been so naive to assume that the switch the seller said was "good" actually worked.

Thanks for the reply, I had checked the fuses and they all looked OK, but I went back through them and one was blown, I just missed it. So that's the good news. The bad news is the turn signals still didn't work, and I opened up my replacement switch to find the exact same broken solder joints...

Hello again! I am having some serious frustration with my bike. My turn signals have stopped working from time to time, and jiggling the cable going into the switch has always fixed the problem...so I always assumed it was solder joints in the switch. Well, the other day I lost the turn signals...

Just for some closure - I bought a remanufactured starter from EMS Global ($40 with free shipping and a one year warranty by the way) and it was definitely the starter motor. Apparently mine has never been right because I am amazed at how instantaneously my bike starts when I hit the button...

Read through the other threads on the subject, but I think you need to scratch off the coating where the button needs to contact the handlebars.

Are your bars painted? The start button depends on contact with the metal handlebars to complete the circuit from what I have read on here.

Awesome, thanks for doing this,I will definitely use them

Just a follow up question...how do these starter motors ground, just by being bolted to the engine block? I ask because I took everything apart again today to prepare to put a new starter in, and I found that if I laid the starter on the engine block and then held down the start button for a few...

OK, thanks for the reply.

I should say it "started the bike". It doesn't anymore because it doesn't turn over...

Hello again, I am having starter issues am I am having a hard time feeling confident in my abilities to isolate the problem. My starter has been sluggish for quite some time. My bike runs very well so even though it is sluggish it starts the bike. Kick start works too. It makes a whiny noise...

Assuming the other side of the gas tank looks just as nice, how much would you want for it?

I know this is an old post, but I just wanted to say I used this to cut a gasket today, thanks!

This is not the best pic, but these are superbike bars with bar ends on an otherwise stock bike (for now). I cut my old grips off rather than save them because I wanted to try different looking grips anyways. Grips are pretty cheap for the most part.

I changed to superbike bars recently, and I just re-routed the clutch and throttle cables...however, if you have a drum brake in the front - I could not re-route that cable enough without it looking stupid. I had to try a bunch of different clutch cables made for other bikes until I found one...