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This thread is a year old, but Axel, did you end up replacing the rear spring, and/or the whole shock assembly? Is it possible to take it apart and rebuild it? I'm looking to swap the spring out with something a little bit stiffer. The current spring only has about 30,000km on it, and some...

Great bike! For the forks, you can try heavier weight oil (15wt?) to stiffen it up a bit. I've also upgraded to progressive springs and noticed a good improvement. More controlled in corners, and much less brake dive. Check out XS650 direct and the springs that are 24mm dia by 484mm long...

Great, thanks! Looks like Dime City sells them as well, although at $129US + $25 shipping to Canada they're well over twice as much as the springs from XS650Direct. And I can't find much on the Hagon's in terms of specs. I heard back from XS650Direct and they thought the springs would work...

I'm looking to get some progressive springs for the front end of my 82 Maxim, hoping to reduce the brake dive a bit. I know the Maxim/DOHC bikes have 35mm forks rather than the 34mm (or 33?) forks in the SOHC bikes. Would these springs work? http://www.xs650direct.com/products-19.html (Part...

Amazing work so far! Agreed that there aren't many brat builds with DOHC bikes, I'll be keen to see how this one turns out.

Lou: yeah, I was wondering if the p.o. changed the jet to compensate for another issue. Or maybe he stripped the original #117.5 and could only replace it with a #120 - I checked XS650 direct, who carries parts for the BS34 carbs on the DOHC bike, and it looks like they don't carry the #117.5...

Thanks bcware. The air intake and exhaust are completely stock. Valves are within spec and carbs are synced with a manometer. Float height is perfect at 3mm below the carb mixing chamber body edge. I haven't changed anything on the carbs, although the RH main jet is a #120 instead of the #117.5...

Went on a road trip from Ottawa down to Burlington VT and back over to Lake Placid. The bike ran beautifully, even with two of us on it, a backpack on the back, and another one strapped to the gas tank! It still doesn't like the 1200-2000 rpm range, though, especially when it warms up after...

Took my road test and passed! I've now got my full motorcycle license. Also spent a bit of time troubleshooting bouncing/sticking speedometer and tachometer needles. Took the cables out and greased them, and re-routed the lines to get rid of some of the tighter turns. Seems to be working fine now.

Nice looking bike JV! I don't think it should be overheating from just idling, but others would know better. Especially if you have to pull it up a bit to 2k to keep it from stalling. It's not much, but it doesn't help that you're not moving. If it's inconsistent idle I'd be guessing...

Swapped out my clubman bars with some clip-ons, and replaced the cheap-o ebay fork gaiters with some other ebay fork gaiters. Fits PERFECTLY. See the before and after. Gives a much cleaner look. The clip-ons just hit the tank, which is really only a problem at really slow speeds. There is...

Turn the bars all the way to the stop, push the key in and turn it CCW over to the lock position. Make sure you don't turn it over to "Park" or it'll leave your lights on and drain your battery.

Did you sync the carbs afterwards? If they're out of sync after the valve adjustment that could throw off your idle speed.

Good weekend to work on the bike! I checked the valves, synced the carbs, and fixed a squeak from the rear monoshock. I'll still need to get into the carbs again, and maybe replace some seals and o-rings. When the bike is warm, it idles fine but has a tough time getting from idle (1200) to...

Jso, it looks like you've got a DOHC, which is a bit more involved than the SOHC for adjusting valves. I was about to do this on the weekend but the weather was too nice and I decided to go for a ride instead :bike: This post gives specific instructions for the DOHC...

Good progress so far! I'll be following this thread.

Bummer. Try buzzing it off flat with a dremel, drill a hole in the middle, and thread a new bolt/nut through? I'm pretty sure they are welded on.