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Good luck, hope you find the right shoes for it!

It looks a lot like an SR400 or SR500 wheel, and they did come with drum brakes in some years. This eBay listing has one that seems comparable; yours might have been powdercoated.

Well, a few things: 1) Could be your flasher relay stuck closed, as you suspect, so try the replacement when it arrives. 2) Is your wiring stock? If not, like if you replaced the fuse block or whatever, make sure the wires are going to the right place. 3) Are you using incandescent bulbs...

I don't suspect it; I have a manual petcock and both vacuum ports are normally capped off. The petcock connects only to the carburetors directly.

Just checking in, I'm still working on fixing this. One thing I noticed is that when I get it running, I'll pop the vacuum port caps off and find a bit of fuel in there, even though I've got the carb float level set at ~4mm from the top of the bowl (using the tube check method). I also found...

JohnP's got great advice. My Spinning Wheel of Death is more of a brute-force, still-on-the bike way to do it. Do as he does, not as I do! Mother's really is incredible stuff, I've gotten near-mirror shine on some of the parts I've used it on.

It looked pretty gunky before, and I tried hand-polishing with Mother's Mag/Aluminum Polish (usually my fave) but it was such a slow process, I just slapped a brass wire wheel (or steel? it's been a minute, I feel like it was probably brass) on my angle grinder and let 'er rip. I tried the easy...

Thank you! It's a repaint; it was originally Catalina Blue but I just really hated it. The new color is just rattlecan Duplicolor with some 2K epoxy clearcoat.

I've got gaiters on my bike too, and Emgo KZ bars. The ergonomics are perfect for me (but I'm 5'6 and have the short-arm long-leg power combo going) and it looks pretty sharp. I changed the mirrors and some of the luggage since this photo, but you get the idea.

Nice job on getting all the fork parts freshened up! The top of the forks are a nightmare; mine needed new springs and I had to get them in a vise and use a jaw puller against it to get the circlips back in. Totally worth it, but they better not need to be replaced anytime soon.

If you are able to scan it, please do! I've started a collection on Thingiverse for XS400 parts that are hard to find, that can be 3D printed.

The other things to double-check is to make sure the vacuum hose is secured/has a good seal to the intake boot, and that the other side is capped off. Also the gas cap seal--see if anything changes if you leave the gas cap open.

I've got the same problem; I just chalked it up to the steel part that grabs it on the frame getting deformed. Usually I reach in and manually push the seat hook on the right side in (which moves the left one too) and pull up. If anyone's got a fix, I'd love to hear it.

As I design or print things, I'm collecting them here: https://www.thingiverse.com/avemachina/collections/43123719/things

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6993476 Here's my STL of the one I dimensioned from the one off my bike last night. It's not 100% in terms of the cable entry angle, but it will prevent your cable from falling into the case cover, which is all it needs to do. I'll make some refinements to it...

We've got old bikes, and those old bikes have old parts that break and are getting hard to find. Fortunately, we've also got folks on these forums that know how to use CAD and 3D printing to resurrect these extinct parts! I'm starting this thread so we can get any STLs, OBJs, etc. in one place...

1L9-15441-00-00 is the part number for the "clutch cable holder" that everyone's missing. I've been working on gathering up the STLs I've made for my random bike parts together (as a way of learning FreeCAD), and this seems like a fun one to do. I've got the original part, I've been meaning to...

The 32 vs 26mm is because the measurements are different depending on whether you have brass floats or rubber floats. 26 is for brass. The rubber ones have an odd swoopy shape to them, so the volume it occupies in the space of the float bowl is a little different.

They're gasket style, the fiber kind.

That's a good point--I might as well pop the sensor off and clean it. It is just brass touching a little steel pip, but who knows, contamination could've caused the conductivity to change just enough to cause issues. I'll charge the battery up a bit too. I've got a voltmeter/USB port thingy...