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Correct. Top of float, measured to float bowl gasket mating surface (less gasket) is typical points of measurement. I’d speculate 27mm is too much and the tube method implies that as well. I too bought a “barn” find. I’ve done EVERYTHING to it. The good news is these bikes are real beauties and...

Looks like yours is set at about 6 or 7mm (rather than 3mm max), if I’m seeing this right. Look at my picture where the joint I am describing is clearing visible, and where your the fuel level should be. Also I averaged out by measuring at the centre of the carb joint because the carbs on the...

You take an appropriate sized clear tube and push it into the fuel drain port at the bottom of the carbs. Then open the drain screw so that fuel flows into the tube. The fuel will stop when it reaches the level of the float jet corresponding to the joint in the carbs. It should be no more than...

I ran into the same issues trying to source the correct level 400J adjustment, the recommended setting where all over the place. And the Maxim model is different from the SOHC engine. I think 27mm is probably too much. And it makes sense that since the float is lower, correspondingly that would...

Where is your flasher part located?

Here’s a diagram I downloaded. Can you point me to the “module” location. The diagram says there is a #26 Flasher Canceling Unit”. Do you think that would be the module your talking about? It’s hard to tell but it almost looks like that #26 is under the seat.

On my 82 Maxim 400 my self cancel turn signal function sometimes works after turning left but almost never after turning right. Apparently manually pushing the switch will also force it cancel the turn signal. It doesn’t on mine and it’s challenging to turn the turn signal off especially while...

Funny thing is, both carbs were connected via a T. You can see that in the one of the pictures above. The vacuum fuel cock did work with both carbs hooked up. But I thought it was a bit hoaky the way the vacuum lines were hooked up to the fuel value vacuum port. But the good news is I did cap...

This is mine. It is a 1982 Maxim 400

So I took out the T then plugged Carb1 (left side carb) ran a new vacuum line with two 90 degree boots. One 90 for the petcock inlet and one 90 for carb 2 Ran the bike and low and behold no difference. The vacuum petcock is still doing it job. Also I decided to sync my carbs with my DYI...

This is a picture I took during original disassembly. This is the left hand carb showing a T coming off the carb holder (aka boot). One leg of the T is inserted over the brass tube on the carb#1 boot. The other leg is a small vinyl line with a 90 that goes to the right carb#2, ….and it’s brass...

A possibility with my bike was sometime in the past the right side carb boot was damaged by the previous owner. Probably in trying to heat up the boot to get it off. With this damage they would never have been able to get the bike to run right because of a vacuum leak. Perhaps also they T’d if...

I don’t really see why it would need two vacuum sources either. But that’s the way mine was. I did manage to find a diagram for the Maxim and it seems to show just one carb vacuum line too. I wish the tubes were identified “vacuum” and “fuel” with their sizes.

So the vacuum from just one carb is activating the fuel flow (vacuum operated diaphragm)? I totally rebuilt my Maxim and I’m pretty sure both carbs were connected via a T. That said the distance between the left carb, T and the petcock is only about 1 1/4”. Barely enough to hook them up once the...

Is there a diagram that shows how the vacuum tubes are configured from the petcock to the carb vacuum ports. On my bike there is a T between the #1 carb and the petcock vacuum port the #2 carb (assume right side). There is very little distance between the two ports and I am having difficulty...

The good news is it is really easy to take the tubes off. You just loosen the top pinch bolts (those get torqued back to 8.5 ft lbs) and the lower ones get loosened off and get torqued back to 25.5 ft lbs. When they’re loose, the tube will just drop down. Careful they don’t hit the floor!. When...

I suppose it is possible to replace seals at the tube/housing without removing the upper tubes I never heard of anyone doing it that way and also I think that would be awkward to do at so many stages in the process. Also to seat the new seals you need to slip something like a 1 1/2” ABS (like...

I just did the seals on my 82 Maxim 400J. It should be a very straighforward process. Easier than many other bikes. It is interesting that you left the tubes on the bike. I guess it’s possible to do it that way. I just took them off. Really easy to do and then perhaps makes it easier to do the...

Welcome Retro Jimmy. And welcome to the “adventure”. I bought an 1982 Maxim 400 because cosmetically it was in very good condition. After 4 months I have done EVERYTHING to it aside from the engine (it has 22,000 km (13670 miles). It’s running now and running/operating beautifully. I think they...

I just replaced my fork seals on my bike. I was surprised what an easy job it was. These old bikes have the advantage of simplicity over newer bikes. They were made to be serviced by the owner. After I got the seals in, I wanted to make sure I got them in right side up. I was almost positive I...