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Well I wouldn't suggest cutting anything with a rasp! I only used it to smooth things out, and it made a proper mess in the garage while I was at it (wear a mask).

I've found that a rasp works pretty well for fiberglass too, and it's nice and cheap.

It kind of sounds like you wired the relay to be always on... Make sure you have a way to interrupt the circuit.

Reminds me of them trike drifter vids. Probably a little safer though!

On my old Rebel, the inner exhaust broke loose from the outer wall and my brother welded it back up with a MIG. Maybe this is the same thing?

Are you getting power on the red/white circuit (after the kill switch)? It powers both the ignition system and the safety relay.

I don't see any fusible links in the wiring diagram, but there is an in-line diode there. If that diode shorted, then you might get some AC signal to the battery, and batteries don't like AC. The only other white wires go straight to the rectifier, so I can't think of any other reason one of...

It's generally a bad idea to run LEDs without a resistor, since they can't restrict the current through them without one (killing the LED). Resistors are cheaper than LEDs anyway, and they're not hard to work with, just pick the right ones for the job. Most 5mm LEDs can handle 20-30mA, which...

The brake switches are normally open, so using either brake will complete the circuit between the yellow and brown wires. It sounds like the switches aren't working, so disconnect each of them to see which is the problem.

If you have your heart set on using a "freeze" method, you could check out using the dry ice method. I've never had to do it before, but getting the pipes hot and using normal ice might work as well.

Yamaha uses double walled exhaust pipes, so I don't know if you could get the water in the space between them.

Valleykat: sometimes LED tail/brake lights that are made elsewhere do not have separate "brake" and "running" lights (something was probably lost in translation at one point). I've torn open several such modules to find that even though the terminals are isolated by a diode, they still go to...

It's one of my specialties. :cool: EngTB has more info (as is its custom) including other torch gases. I think you've got a pretty good chance of getting it, since torch welding seems ideal for cast aluminum and the sand will help prevent it from flowing if you overheat it. Those brazing...

If you're feeling adventurous, how about using a torch to weld it back over itself? Pull the screw out and push the plate down in firmly packed sand, evenly heat it with whatever torch is handy until you get a little pool at the cracks; quench it when you're finished and then do the other side...

It requires some patience is all. You have to be gentle, but deliberate with her! Loosen the top and pull it back a little, then rock it back and forth so that it doesn't catch on anything. Viola, it's off!

The way I see it, a relay is a relay, so I don't think it'd be worth grabbing an OEM one. It ought to be easy enough to convert to a standard automotive relay. $7 vs. $70 seems like a no-brainer.

Darn electrical gremlins :guns: Oh, if yours is one of the early models it might not have a relay at all. Search for the wiring diagram thread and see if you can find yours there, if it's not in the manual. You might be lucky enough to find one in color too. If it does have the relay, take...

I guess we know why you want a hovercraft so badly! :D

Probably the headlight relay. Pull it off and clean the contacts and see if that fixes it. If not then you can temporarily bypass it by shorting the red/yellow to blue/black wires in its harness. If that gets them to light, then either the alternator is not putting any power out or the relay...

Every time I take a break/refuel/etc. and there is another rider around I make a little bit of fool out of myself. One thought I didn't know what the reserve was, another watched me kick it repeatedly with the killswitch off...