Why are we nitpicking the phrase "buttery smooth" — in my opinion, it is attainable, especially if you are dealing with a difficult and heavy-to-use clutch. For me, it was a case of "anything has got to be better than this," and what I achieved was, as I would put it, buttery smooth. Here is a checklist of steps I would take to solve the problem. Each one is a little more invasive and time-consuming, so I suggest going down the line and hopefully one of these solves it before you have to fully replace the clutch plates.
- As Capt mentioned, lubing the cable is a straightforward step, I would start there. Also, check out your routing; if it isn't right for your length, it can bind and be a real pain to pull.
- After lubing and checking your routing, you will want to crack the sprocket cover. You will need to pull your foot peg (if it's in stock position) and clutch pedal first to access it. There are six hex bolts to get in. Check what condition your clutch release is in, if it's shot or you feel you want a new one, Mikes XS has one you can toss in. Pay attention to orientation if you do replace it. Mine was broken, so I had to replace it, but what I learned was that mine was installed upside down at some point in its 40-year life, and I suspect that had a massive hand in the problem. The female end (the side that screws into the sprocket cover) needs the long end up and the short end down, or rather, the short end goes into the adjustment port and faces out when the plate is installed. Either way, new or not new, disassemble it and give it a solid cleaning. When you reinstall, you can apply both the male and female ends with a light coating of grease. I used Lucas Oil Red N Tacky Grease so they could slide a little easier when you pull the clutch.
- While in there, pull your clutch push rod and check if it's level and true. If it's not, replace it. I picked one up on eBay for $7. I didn't need it in the end, but I am holding on to it because I have read they can get bent from time to time. The push rod simply pulls out; no screws or connections you need to worry about. While removed, grease this too. Apply a thin coat of grease on the entire push rod and put some on the end that passes through (not the sprocket side) — there is a tiny 5/16" ball bearing at that end that helps push the plates in. When you push the rod back in, the rubber gasket likely rubs some of it off. I removed mine, recoated it once more, and cleaned the excess after installing it (this step may be pointless, but I'm just sharing what I did).
- After that, put the sprocket cover back on, tighten the hex bolts down, and test your clutch. If the sprocket cover isn't tightened fully, you can get false clutch feedback, as the clutch release spring won't have a solid resistance to actuate. You should notice a significant difference — at least, I hope you do.
- If you are still experiencing some difficulty, you may want to replace your clutch plates. I won't go into depth on that as there are some great resources on YouTube that walk you through it. It's an easy job, just a bit messy. Think of it like an invasive oil change, ha!
I did these steps out of order. I jumped to #5 before I did #2 and #3, so I am hoping you have success before jumping there as well. I truly can't describe how difficult pulling my clutch was and how easy it is now. I thought how heavy it was was normal, especially reading everyone on here act like
heavy is normal. But comparing it to my '78 CB200, which is 3 years older than my '81, which had as
buttery of a clutch as my buddy's 2023 Royal Enfield, I knew there were greener pastures.
Welp, that's it — good luck!