Can I get some Arc Welding Tips?

[bcware]

Wormholes!

I am pretty sure my welder is too weak for metal this thick. Initially I thought I only needed enough power to fall into the amperage range listed on the STICK, but it looks like power requirements go up as the metal gets thicker. According to some charts I found online (my cheap welder doesn't come with one!) I should be running a 3/32" stick at about 115 - 120 amps for 3/16" thick steel. Obviously I can't do that

Welder: 80 amp inverter arc set to MAX
Electrodes: Lincoln Fleetweld 3/32 E6013 (says 70 - 100 amp range on box)
Metal: 3/16" steel (my video says 3/32" which is WAY off)

Bonus questions:

As I am dragging the electrode along should it actually TOUCH the piece or should I be holding it slightly away from the metal?

How can I tell if I have a strong weld with good penetration?

Can I use smaller 1/16" 6013 stick on thick metal like this 3/16" steel and simply make several passes?

 

[Charles]

What are you welding and what type of weld is it (ie, butt weld, 90 degree angle weld)

 

[bcware]

The welds are the same as shown in the video. A fillet weld I think it is called? 90-degrees on the outside and inside corner. I am happy to learn about all types though!

 

[rugbywarrior89]

Let me see if I can remember my welding class from High school about 6 yrs ago.

Generally when done properly, your weld should actually be stronger than the steel. However, not using the rated equipment could change that. I would think that if you were to weld it from both sides, you should get enough penetration to hold a good weld. alternatively, I suppose you could notch a wide V-shape so that the initial weld would weld the rated thickness of the steel at the point then run two more welds overtop of that weld on each side. This could prove tricky and look like complete crap though if your not experienced. Don't quote me on this though. Hopefully, a more experienced welder on here could verify this theory.

Bonus Questions:

No, your rod should never touch the metal. That will cause a short and stick it on the metal. It is a real pain in the ass to get the rod off sometimes, even to the point you may have to cut it away from the metal. If your not experienced, you will probably learn this the hard way many times.lol

You will be able to see good penetration during the weld. Through the mask you will actually see a puddle of melted steel around the end of your rod. Also, the longer the arc at the end of the rod, the hotter it will burn and the deeper the weld will be so try not to keep the rod too close to the metal. Also be sure to move the rod in a circular pattern to ensure proper penetration. If you run a straight line, you will have large gaps and the well will look like crap and be weaker to boot.

Yes you can run several passes over any weld. I would google different types of weld patterns. Just be sure to chip off the slag between passes. While on that note: BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN CHIPPING SLAG. It may not look dangerous, but I have seen people blind in one eye because a hot slag chip flew into their face at a million mph.

Once you get used to it, welding isn't terribly hard assuming it's easy to get to the weld. Sometimes it can be quite difficult when maneuvering in tight places.

 

[Charles]

Honestly, I use the suggested settings as just that, suggested. Practice on scrap and adjust accordingly. The way the weld sounds and looks are really what's key. Like it was said above, you want to have a pool of metal as you go and a circular pattern is a great way to get that. Also, if you can check the back side of the weld, you can def see how far the heat penetrated. Sound is key too. People say it sounds like bacon frying...I've never really gotten that sound. It is def a sizzling, but not like a food sizzling if that makes sense. Also, the sound is consistent. If you're getting loud pops or the sizzling is intermittent, you're not doing it right.
And to reiterate the poster above...it's called arc welding for a reason. You holding the stick away from the metal is what produces the arc. If possible, use two hands to steady your stick/electrode to help keep a consistent length away from the metal surface.

 

[Sesty]

check your local community college for a Metal Working/ Welding class! there may be online classes available also. i know MIT offers a wide variety of FREE online class materials, not sure if welding made the list, but worth a check.

 

[motoTrooper]

Oh boy stick welding sucks balls. Some of the things that I have found through hard experience is preheating makes everything easier especially when your pieces are burly thick like those you are doing. MAP gas the crap out of it! Also working in a comfortable position and being able to secure your work in such a way as to ease access so you can really concentrate on the beads you are throwing down. And lastly with stick welding -VENTILATION! I stupidly spent way too much time in a cold garage breathing fumes hopefully I didn't damage the body temple too much/permanently.

The crap that is built up around the weld is slag and is a pain to chip off but when you start getting better welds it comes off easier. But when you have those worm holes it is a bastard.

I know they can be spendy new but a good MIG setup is a godsend and makes welding steel such a pleasure. I haven't had much experience with TIG but if I get the knack of it I'd probably move on to that so I could do aluminum as well...

Good luck and keep an extinguisher close by.

 

[rugbywarrior89]

How did your weld go BC?

 

[bcware]

OK. I found some problems with my technique.

First: I was running too much angle from left to right; I should be at more like 60 degrees (90 being verticle). I was running at more like 30 degrees (0 degrees being parallel to the table).

Second: My welder is a little under-powered to be welding 3/16" steel with a 3/32" electrode.

Third: I beveled the edges of the corner joint thinking I would need to for better penetration.

The combination of 2 and 3 (beveled corner edges and underpowered welder) means I was getting an arc that highly favored one side of the joint. Holding the arc from 45 degrees (up to down) when welding a fillet joint should cause the arc to hit the bottom and top plate pretty evenly.

When your welder is running on the lower end of the acceptable heat range the arc will start to jump and become attracted/biased to a single side of the joint. This is why I have huge, even lines of slag on one side of the joint.

I did a few other welds on a flat plate (no joint, just a clean, flat plate) of the same thickness and I had no issues; my welds look good.

SO, the solution is to NOT bevel the corner edge, but to leave some overhang and make the weld strong by adding/building up metal to the outside of the joint instead of going for penetration. There is simply no way my 80-amp inverter is going to be penetrating 3/16" steel significantly.