Cylinder honing

vladimirmartin23

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Planning on changing rings along with the camshafts and head that blew up on me back in august on my 85 seca, can anyone say if a 180 grit ball hone will do the job? It's the only thing i can find that wont cost a fortune, so its either that or a cheap stone hone, in which case, will 220 work?

It's the first time i do this and all i know is i should aim for 45 degrees crosshatch with a maximum of around 15 seconds at slow drill speed. Hell, someone i know who repairs bikes a lot told me that you don't hone without a rebore and now i'm just confused since everyone online says the crosshatch is essential for new rings even before going oversize.
 
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I used a ball hone when I did my rering a few years ago. Don't stress the angles or precision you think is needed. Just use lots of wd40 on the hone and cylinder walls and have at it. Watch a few YouTube videos to gauge the in and out speed. I think mine was a 220, but I'm not really sure now. It took about 2-300 miles for the rings to seat in and stop burning oil. It's been 4000 miles now and no issues.
 
I used a ball hone when I did my rering a few years ago. Don't stress the angles or precision you think is needed. Just use lots of wd40 on the hone and cylinder walls and have at it. Watch a few YouTube videos to gauge the in and out speed. I think mine was a 220, but I'm not really sure now. It took about 2-300 miles for the rings to seat in and stop burning oil. It's been 4000 miles now and no issues.
so if i use the 180, i should expect a longer break in period, and hopefully the rings won't mind
 
Here's a shot of the honed cylinders during reassembly. Didn't have one of just them by themselves. You'll have to zoom in to see the crosshatch.
 

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