New owner '84 MAXIM XS400

[James Gelinas]

Overnight in wd40 and the bolt unscrewed. The oil drained and is at a reasonable level. Also, my hands are shot from squirting a bunch of oil out with the hand pump, which turned out to be wasted effort. lol I'll bring the old oil to be recycled and buy new stuff once the filter arrives. I expect I'll need the right O rings too. BTW: would never have gotten that thing undone without the tools recommended by kitchi. So thanks for that.

Also, I bought some sea foam which kitchi also recommended. We'll see how that goes.

 

[Kitchi]

I am pleased it worked out for you.

 

[James Gelinas]

OK. So a Maxim speedometer/tachometer assembly arrived. The speedometer is broken but the tach works. On my bike, the reverse is true: Speedometer works but tach is dead. I'd like to remove working parts from the unit that arrived and install it in the assembly on my bike. But the plastic is delicate. I've removed all the screws and still find it sticks. I don't want to force it and break it (like the last guy did on the one that arrived) because I want to be able to take my good one apart with little to no damage

The white backing just doesn't want to come off, as if there's a hidden screw or adhesive. Anyone successfully take these things apart without destroying the plastic case?

 

[MoonClipper]

OK. So a Maxim speedometer/tachometer assembly arrived. The speedometer is broken but the tach works. On my bike, the reverse is true: Speedometer works but tach is dead. I'd like to remove working parts from the unit that arrived and install it in the assembly on my bike. But the plastic is delicate. I've removed all the screws and still find it sticks. I don't want to force it and break it (like the last guy did on the one that arrived) because I want to be able to take my good one apart with little to no damage

The white backing just doesn't want to come off, as if there's a hidden screw or adhesive. Anyone successfully take these things apart without destroying the plastic case?

View attachment 37789

I believe you're missing the 4 screws that hold the plastic on. Two in the bottom middle, and one on each side of the corner area. Those four screws hold the plastic together. This is going off memory.

 

[MoonClipper]

I went ahead and circled them. You then have the two on each gauge next to where the cables go in to pull the gauges themselves out.

 

[Kitchi]

I haven't taken mine apart so i cant say if there were any adhesive or not.(probably no adhesive)
the plastic may have shrunk so keep at it carefully.

if it were mine i would put Windex in a syringe and apply a small amount around the perimeter of the white piece to act as a lubricant.and try again careful.

 

[MoonClipper]

I haven't taken mine apart so i cant say if there were any adhesive or not.(probably no adhesive)
the plastic may have shrunk so keep at it carefully.

if it were mine i would put Windex in a syringe and apply a small amount around the perimeter of the white piece to act as a lubricant.and try again careful.

No adhesive is used. There's tow yellow 'gaskets' that can create suction though. All that's holding the cluster together at this point is the four screws. I pulled my spare out and pulled it apart real fast to show the stand offs they screw into.

 

[James Gelinas]

No, I'd already done some disassembly. It finally came apart. I used a plastic pry tool from a computer tool set. Sorry to waste community time on that.

Now to figure out how to get the assembly off my bike and apart without destroying that one too.

I did take photos of the first disassembly, so I'm pretty sure I could get this thing back together. Except for the fact that it arrived with a bunch of plastic already broken from the parts store.

So I got it apart and found two of these mystery parts floating inside the case:

The good one I'll clean. I'm guessing soft dish detergent will work on the plastic.

 

[MoonClipper]

No, I'd already done some disassembly. It finally came apart. I used a plastic pry tool from a computer tool set. Sorry to waste community time on that.

Now to figure out how to get the assembly off my bike and apart without destroying that one too.

I did take photos of the first disassembly, so I'm pretty sure I could get this thing back together. Except for the fact that it arrived with a bunch of plastic already broken from the parts store.

View attachment 37791


So I got it apart and found two of these mystery parts floating inside the case:
View attachment 37792

The good one I'll clean. I'm guessing soft dish detergent will work on the plastic.

Those are light diffusers of a sort. Look at the white plastic piece where the gauge would normally be. They sit behind the cluster and the light goes inside then. I suspect the may also serve as a heat shield for the cluster, to keep it from melting. They're supposed to be glued in, but 40 year old glue doesn't really hold up anymore.

 

[MoonClipper]

One important bit, if your bike still has the trip knob it has a very small Phillips head screw inaide the center of the knob. Mine stripped pulling it off, so I keep my knob in my glovebox and just use it at the gas station when I fill up.

 

[James Gelinas]

MoonClipper, very helpful. The unit on my bike has a working speedometer and trip knob. I definitely want to not break that when installing the new tach. So very good to know about the little screw. I'll look for it.

Also, inside the instrument panel on my bike are several bulbs which are dead. Including the high beam indicator but others to light the panel at night.


Two questions: Is that long thin thing in the white fixture a bulb (like say for the instrument panel) or is it an old style fuse? It's actually soldered in place.

Next question: This bulb, is this a standard old incandescent bulb type? Are they still made or are there LED replacements? I'll see if any of these bulbs from the new panel actually still work for now.

Also, changing the subject because I expect this cabling will go in the headlight assembly, those 12v H4 LED bulbs for motorcycle headlights like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Headlight-Conversion-Approved-SEALIGHT/dp/B071Z7RHYM

Or this

https://www.amazon.ca/Headlight-Motorcycle-Daytime-Running-Conversion/dp/B07Z4QKB33

Good? Bad? Stick with halogen? Again... wondering how long incandescent will stick around. Signal lights too. LED conversion is going to happen one day.

 

[MoonClipper]

MoonClipper, very helpful. The unit on my bike has a working speedometer and trip knob. I definitely want to not break that when installing the new tach. So very good to know about the little screw. I'll look for it.

Also, inside the instrument panel on my bike are several bulbs which are dead. Including the high beam indicator but others to light the panel at night.


Two questions: Is that long thin thing in the white fixture a bulb (like say for the instrument panel) or is it an old style fuse? It's actually soldered in place.

View attachment 37795


Next question: This bulb, is this a standard old incandescent bulb type? Are they still made or are there LED replacements? I'll see if any of these bulbs from the new panel actually still work for now.

View attachment 37796

Also, changing the subject because I expect this cabling will go in the headlight assembly, those 12v H4 LED bulbs for motorcycle headlights like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Headlight-Conversion-Approved-SEALIGHT/dp/B071Z7RHYM

Or this

https://www.amazon.ca/Headlight-Motorcycle-Daytime-Running-Conversion/dp/B07Z4QKB33

Good? Bad? Stick with halogen? Again... wondering how long incandescent will stick around. Signal lights too. LED conversion is going to happen one day.

That long thing fuse looking thing is indeed a bulb, I can't remember where goes into the cluster off the top of my head though.

Luckily the other bulbs are pretty standard, 194 bulbs. Some of the older bikes used bayonets I think. You can buy a pack of 10 LEDs for about $12 off Amazon. I haven't upgraded mine yet, but it's something I've been meaning to do.

I've used the Sealight bulbs before, but it was for my car actually, and not my bike. I would think it would work well, I personally plan to swap my entire bucket for a LED.

 

[James Gelinas]

Turns out the H4 LED bulbs in a standard incandescent housing are illegal in BC and Canada for both cars and motorcycles. For brightness reasons. If I get a new reflector housing designed for LED, that's OK. Looks like a rabbit hole to figure out legality of what. I'll stick with fixing the tach for now.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[James Gelinas]

I got the instrument panel off my bike. It's apart and the plastic bits are soaking in soapy water. Getting that trip knob off turned out to be a nightmare. I have an interchangable tiny screwdriver set for computers. Didn't work. One of the heads fit the screw perfectly but I couldn't fit it in. So I had to go buy a cheap jewelers screwdriver kit. The hole to reach it is that tiny. In case this hits the next guy.

 

[James Gelinas]

Alright. The instrument panel with replacement tachometer (and indicator bulbs) is now installed. That project is done.

Next project: new DOT 3 brake fluid for the front brakes. Next I figure out how to flush and bleed my brakes without destroying the paint job.

I also got a new oil filter and new air filter. Problem: I thought the oil filter would come with new o rings for the bike fittings. Nope. So which o ring sizes do I need? I checked the manual online here and didn't see. I'm guessing this is just something 'everyone knows'. Except for me.

The air filter will go on after that. Along with a project to change out the vinyl seat cover.

And I still need to figure out how to adjust the clutch at the engine and handlebars.

Thanks for all the help by members on list. I would have been lost without folks chiming in with advice and recommendations.

 

[MoonClipper]

Alright. The instrument panel with replacement tachometer (and indicator bulbs) is now installed. That project is done.

View attachment 37797

Next project: new DOT 3 brake fluid for the front brakes. Next I figure out how to flush and bleed my brakes without destroying the paint job.

I also got a new oil filter and new air filter. Problem: I thought the oil filter would come with new o rings for the bike fittings. Nope. So which o ring sizes do I need? I checked the manual online here and didn't see. I'm guessing this is just something 'everyone knows'. Except for me.

The air filter will go on after that. Along with a project to change out the vinyl seat cover.

And I still need to figure out how to adjust the clutch at the engine and handlebars.

Thanks for all the help by members on list. I would have been lost without folks chiming in with advice and recommendations.

Go to harbor freight and get one of their cheap brake bleeders. I've had mine for going on 5 years and it's worked great. Can bleed brakes even on a car solo. Drain the reservoir first, fill with fresh fluid, pull pressure on the bleeder nut with the brake bleeder, crack it open until clear fluid comes out. Simple to do, and won't risk your paint job being messed up.

I'm careful with which filter kits I get because of this. Fram part number CH6003 comes with the filter and both o-rings. I don't know the sizes, hopefully someone does.

Clutch adjustment is super easy. On your left side, follow your clutch cable down. There's a little rubber cap, use a flat head to pop it off. next use a 10mm deep socket to reach the locking nut and break it loose. Some people insist you need to hold the center with a screwdriver, I never found this is needed. Yes it'll rotate a bit, but just keep turning and you'll feel a hard stop, at the point you can break it loose. Then you use a JIS screwdriver (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver to adjust the adjustment screw. It'll take some playing to find the right spot. Small adjustments can be made at the bars with the adjustment knob there. Once adjustments are done you just tighten down the 10mm lock nut, again some people insist you need to hold the screw, I haven't found this needed. Probably throws the adjustment off a little, but I've never seen a noticeable difference.

The most important part of adjusting the engine clutch adjustment is the JIS screwdriver. If you have a old Philips you can file down the tip so it'll work, or you can buy a JIS set on Amazon. Do NOT use a unmodified Philips though! You will strip the screw, and then you'll have a world of trouble. Also, all you 'philips' screws on your bike are actually JIS, so if you end up striping screws.. You know why.

 

[CaptChrome]

The DOHC engine uses the same filter as the SOHC bikes. New o-rings can still be purchased from Yamaha. Here are the part numbers and the rough sizes just in case:
Cap o-ring is P/N 93210-87723-00, ID is 86.5mm, cross-section is 4mm
Bolt o-ring is P/N 93210-16629-00, ID is 15mm, cross-section is 2mm

Buying filters that include o-rings is the best way to go in the future. Besides the Fram, WIX 24934 and NAPA Gold 4934 also have them.