No Fuel Getting To Spark Plugs on first time starting bike

njcafe84

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I just tried starting my bike for the first time this weekend since buying the bike and the spark plugs are dry as a whistle. Not a drop of gas on them. Had the carbs cleaned by a local mechanic who said they were pretty dirty since the bike has been sitting since 1995 but he was confident the bike would run with them.

My question is....where to begin looking for a problem?
 
^^ Agreed. But if you are intent on trying to pinpoint the problem, start be seeing if you're getting gas to the carbs in the first place (if you haven't already). May be a petcock issue?
 
Float bowls have gas in them...didnt have the tank on the bike...used fuel line connected from a funnel straight to the carbs so Its not a petcock issue.
 
Should both of the vacuum caps on the intake manifolds be plugged off since I wasnt using the tank? I had hose connecting the 2 connections so that there was no air flowing into either one of them.
 
Yes, each of the vacuum ports on the carbs should be plugged off.

Should not be a problem with the container being open. In fact, if the container was closed it would choke of fuel to the carbs after a minute of running or so, kind of like sucking the soda from a glass bottle without letting any air in.

Did you verify you are getting spark to both cylinders?

You might try:

1) pulling the choke
2) easing the idle screw out a full turn in each carb. Keep careful notes on how many turns you have made in and out from the original setting so you can go back to standard if you want.
3) try giving the carbs a shot of starting fluid to see of the engine will run for a few seconds
4) Verify that the idle needle point has not broken off and got stuck in the idle needle orifice.
5) Do a compression test to verify you have compression and the valves are opening and closing.

I know your earlier post noted you had a mechanic clean your carbs, but how confident are you he actually knew what he was doing? Although these carbs are not particularly complicated, they must be meticulously clean and actually re-assembled per factory specs to run correctly.
 
Yes, each of the vacuum ports on the carbs should be plugged off.

Should not be a problem with the container being open. In fact, if the container was closed it would choke of fuel to the carbs after a minute of running or so, kind of like sucking the soda from a glass bottle without letting any air in.

Did you verify you are getting spark to both cylinders?

You might try:

1) pulling the choke
2) easing the idle screw out a full turn in each carb. Keep careful notes on how many turns you have made in and out from the original setting so you can go back to standard if you want.
3) try giving the carbs a shot of starting fluid to see of the engine will run for a few seconds
4) Verify that the idle needle point has not broken off and got stuck in the idle needle orifice.
5) Do a compression test to verify you have compression and the valves are opening and closing.

I know your earlier post noted you had a mechanic clean your carbs, but how confident are you he actually knew what he was doing? Although these carbs are not particularly complicated, they must be meticulously clean and actually re-assembled per factory specs to run correctly.


I do have spark to both cylinders
Tried Using the choke

Haven't done a compression test or tried using starter fluid
Also haven't checked or set valve clearances on the bike...wasn't sure I needed to since the motor has only 9k miles.
 
If you have no compression or the valves are not opening/closing or you have burnt/bent valves, it will never run. However, with only 9K miles you shouldn't have problems with compression or valve clearances but you never know. Try the starting fluid .... cheap and easy.
 
I agree. If it fires on starting fluid, then you still have dirty carbs. The carbs on these bikes are extremely sensitive to dirt. I don't know what method your mechanic used, but personally, I think the only way to know that the passages are clean is to disassemble the carbs and spray carb cleaner through each passage from above and below, and see the stream of cleaner coming out the orifices. I am particularly talking about the 3 orifices above the throttle butterfly and the orifice under the carb mixture needle. Also, the emulsion tube and idle jet should be removed to ensure they are clean.

Good luck!
 
Should I be spraying the starter fluid directly into the intake manifolds or through the carbs into the intake manifolds?
 
If he messed with your butterfly valves or idle speed, he could have completely closed them, cutting off any flow of air through the carbs. Try increasing idle speed a bit to open the valves.
 
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