Oil leak from Clutch rod seal?

arfstrom

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Does anyone remember loosing oil though the Clutch rod seal? After the first hundred miles on the bike, i did notice some leaks, but it seams after changing out the sprocket, that the majority of the oil may be being leaked out the OD seal on the clutch rod. Originally I thought it might come from the stator seal, but after opening up the drive cover, It was coming off the clutch rod. So near 200 miles, I am doing 44 miles per gallon fuel, and almost 1 quart of oil per 200 miles. Still testing, Thanks for any help.
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I did wipe up a little bit, no oil near the stator housing, and a fine oil on everything from the sprocket, the chain ... One more OD Seal for the clutch rod?:shrug:

First hundred miles less than 200 miles anyways,
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The second pic looks more like chain lube sludge but looks like oil where the wires go thru under the nuetral indicator switch.
Clean it real nice and have another look after some miles. Clutch pushrod seal can be replaced I think easy enough, just pull pushrod out replace seal ( I replaced mine when engine and case were apart).
I did have an oil leak from the neutral ind. switch and AFTER purchasing the OEM o-ring I discovered that the bottom of the 3 screws was not tight. The o-ring looked fine but I replaced with the new one anyway and made sure tightened up! but not too much - you don't want to crack the plastic. Good place for threadlock.
 
I think your right. I just thought it was unique enough to see if a quart of oil, in under 200 miles, disappear. I will put that on the Get sooner than later list.I am suspicious the chain lube sludge is from the crank case. I never did lube the chain. but it was well lubricated after removing it from the bike. I have never had a good experience with the neutral switch gasket. but I have been able to pick it up locally at Hitching post, in Fridley, or one of their stores. So another 2 hundred miles.
 

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All right, Just replaced that part, Still leaks. Is this one of those seals, you need to use KY Jelly, or a High Temp gasket sealant compound? Every (two times) i have replaced it, I see the gasket ripping right away on insertion. I was going a global google searches, and the XS650 site did list that bearings or other stuff like that could be at fault, I do see some sort of plumbing in that the seal goes into.So I think that means I can not flood the entire hole with HT sealant. Perhaps the clutch rod isn't suppose to be pulled out the left side of the engine, With the plumbing going up there. The illistration showed the push rod being pushed though from the clutch. So still :banghead: here.

It is working, I not going to take it off the road just cause I am pour out a quart of oil every 250 miles. costing $3.64 here at walmart. Its cheaper than a gallon of fuel.:doh:
 
your supposed to change it with the crankcases apart, but it has been successfully done in situ. you also need to check that the clutch rod is not rusty as the erosion rips the seals with use.
 
somewhat irrelevant, but im getting a leak from that black seal thats just below the push rod. what is that seal called so i can get it replaced!? :confused:
 
That is just a plug, On the Shift Cam Fork, These are convienent hide away plugs to hide the access to the Forks. On my catalog Shift Cam-fork Item 26, 90338-22021-00 PLUG, SPEC’’L SHAPE (371-18149-00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-90338-22021-00.html
Parts quoted are for the XS400 4R4, 81.
Hope that helps. there is two of them. appears I hid the second one with my arrow, Well good night!
tobie
 

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Also check that the sprocket is attached securly. If it is not rightly fixed or dirt between sprocket an the hollow axle behind, than there is also an oil leak and the oil splashs around.

Best test to find the leaks, is to clean the crankcase an dust it with some flour. Then make a short drip and you'll see where the oil leak exactly is.
 
thanks guys! yeah that picture you put with the arrow is exactly whats leaking. I'm gonna have to trust that part you suggested is it since theres no picture. its only $4 anyway. ill let ya know how it goes! thanks!
 
Yes, it slides out, and there is a little ball bearing that doesn't always come out when you pull the rod. Make sure it doesn't fall out when your not looking. You don't want to lose that. A dental pick should get the seal out. Installation is reverse of removal
 
Not sure if this is relevant, but I was having issues on my Seca with the clutch rod seal leaking. It turned out that the past owner had broke a chain and it wrapped around the front sprocket and broke the clutch rod. It it was a clean snap since the rod is actually made out of two different metals held together by a pin so i didn't think anything was wrong. I ended up having to machine a new rod and replacing the seal. Make sure your rod is in fact in one piece.
 
The second pic looks more like chain lube sludge but looks like oil where the wires go thru under the nuetral indicator switch.
Clean it real nice and have another look after some miles. Clutch pushrod seal can be replaced I think easy enough, just pull pushrod out replace seal ( I replaced mine when engine and case were apart).
I did have an oil leak from the neutral ind. switch and AFTER purchasing the OEM o-ring I discovered that the bottom of the 3 screws was not tight. The o-ring looked fine but I replaced with the new one anyway and made sure tightened up! but not too much - you don't want to crack the plastic. Good place for threadlock.
hi .I have a leak at the neutral switch .I found the four screws were loose.its the vibration on these bikes I think.did you use thread lock atall?thanks
 
Yes, it slides out, and there is a little ball bearing that doesn't always come out when you pull the rod. Make sure it doesn't fall out when your not looking. You don't want to lose that. A dental pick should get the seal out. Installation is reverse of removal



Thanks for the additional information! It helps me understand the process better. Here are some further points to consider:

  • Ball bearing: It's crucial not to lose the small ball bearing. Make sure you have a secure container or tray to catch it when you remove the rod. Losing it could cause significant problems with the clutch operation. You can check some details at Tradebearings.com
  • Seal removal: Using a dental pick sounds like a good approach for carefully prying out the old seal. Make sure you avoid damaging the groove where the new seal will sit.
  • Cleaning: Before installing the new seal, thoroughly clean the groove and surrounding area of any dirt, debris, or old gasket material. This ensures a proper seal and prevents potential leaks.
 
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