So to read this one (once again, I am assuming stock) Start at battery, bright red to fuse, from fuse to key switch. In on mode, energizes brown wire, to the ignition fuse. which jumpers to Head/ignition fuses. So Key on/off should kill just fine.
Ignition fuse goes to off/on/off switch, then energizes ignition coils. and safety relay, then to the igniter unit. The igniter unit goes Orange to the coils. (firing the coils). So far nothing we have on the stock chart holds a charge, (except battery)
When you think power/electricity, think like a river, from + (positive) to - (Negative).
So the batter is sending a flow of electrons to the the key switch. The key switch is turn on, energizing the Brown and blue wires. Blues wires turn on you tail lights. Brown wires allows the energy to flow to the off/on/off switch (via fuse). once that switch is on, it is allowing a flow to the coils/igniter unit. igniter unit is looking at the pick up for when is a good time to amp up the orange line. providing optimal shock to the spark plug.
So if your wire is skipping a step, I can see the battery/stator/recitifier back feeding to the igniter allowing it to think the off/on/off switch is still on. Nope, that would assume your starter switch is shot, and allowing energy to pass the starter switch (next to batter on diagram), ommm, Rectifier can not bleed over. I think we call the igniter unit a TCI, since TCI isn't listed.
So its either a problem with the safety relay, or the secondary kill switch isn't in the right spot, or the key switch primary power line, is grounding onto another corresponding line. (meaning somehow the red/white line (leading to the coils/igniter unit) is being energized when everything is off, until you pull the fuse.
You said solenoid, and I can't think of where that is. Starter motor? That is what car's use. it is a motor, just doesn't have a capacitor to retain a charge.
Ignition fuse goes to off/on/off switch, then energizes ignition coils. and safety relay, then to the igniter unit. The igniter unit goes Orange to the coils. (firing the coils). So far nothing we have on the stock chart holds a charge, (except battery)
When you think power/electricity, think like a river, from + (positive) to - (Negative).
So the batter is sending a flow of electrons to the the key switch. The key switch is turn on, energizing the Brown and blue wires. Blues wires turn on you tail lights. Brown wires allows the energy to flow to the off/on/off switch (via fuse). once that switch is on, it is allowing a flow to the coils/igniter unit. igniter unit is looking at the pick up for when is a good time to amp up the orange line. providing optimal shock to the spark plug.
So if your wire is skipping a step, I can see the battery/stator/recitifier back feeding to the igniter allowing it to think the off/on/off switch is still on. Nope, that would assume your starter switch is shot, and allowing energy to pass the starter switch (next to batter on diagram), ommm, Rectifier can not bleed over. I think we call the igniter unit a TCI, since TCI isn't listed.
So its either a problem with the safety relay, or the secondary kill switch isn't in the right spot, or the key switch primary power line, is grounding onto another corresponding line. (meaning somehow the red/white line (leading to the coils/igniter unit) is being energized when everything is off, until you pull the fuse.
You said solenoid, and I can't think of where that is. Starter motor? That is what car's use. it is a motor, just doesn't have a capacitor to retain a charge.