Suggestions for removing a stuck rear axel

danno

XS400 Enthusiast
Messages
38
Reaction score
0
Points
6
I thought I would ask for ideas on how to remove a stuck rear axel, rather than just go ahead and possibly bugger it up. Any help will be appreciated!
 
I thought I would ask for ideas on how to remove a stuck rear axel, rather than just go ahead and possibly bugger it up. Any help will be appreciated!
I've had the same problem before, as I'm sure alot of others have to. My suggestion would be to spray the axle and the nut with something like PB-Blaster. WD-40 works well, but PB-Blaster penetrates the metal a little better. Leave it to soak overnight, and then try again. If that doesn't do the trick, a breaker bar can give a little more leverage. Even tapping the bar with a hammer can help even more. Heat can be applied to the nut as well, just be sure to apply it evenly. Another tip is to use a socket that has the same amount of points as your axle has. For example, if your axle nut has 6 points, as most do, use a 6 point socket to loosen it to keep from stripping the nut. Your axle may be corroded, or may even have been overly-torqued on a previous repair. When re-installing the axle later on, apply a little more PB-Blaster or WD-40 to make future removal a little easier, and to prevent further corrosion. Also, make sure when re-installing the axle, to torque the axle nut to factory specs to avoid stripping the threads. I know it's a long response, but hopefully this helps. Let us know how it turns out.
 
and if you are whacking it, put the nut back on or you will bugger the threads up.

a little heat from a hot air gun will help loosen the bond between the two metals!

try a copper mallet as the metal is softer than the steel
 
Thanks, guys. The nut came off easily, but the axel won't budge. I sprayed it heavily with Castle Thrust (on the parts store clerk's recommendation). I will spray it again tonight, and try again to remove it tomorrow. Definitely going to use some never-seize upon reassembly.
 
Last edited:
Is the tire spinning at all? If it is, there should be enough grease left on the shaft to get it out. Sounds like something is keeping it in there other than rust and father time.


Is the bike on a jack or the center stand? If its on a jack, try lowering it so the tire just barely touches the ground. A few love taps on a piece of wood between the hammer and the threaded side of the axel SHOULD be all it takes.
 
A few love taps on a piece of wood between the hammer and the threaded side of the axel SHOULD be all it takes or a few hate taps. Can't hurt anything as long as there is wood between or a soft mallet is used.
 
On a side note, when you finally get the stubborn axle out, I would definitely take a really close look at the wheel bearings. They are cheap to replace if they aren't in the best shape, and now would be the perfect time to get some new ones in there.
 
That spacer that goes between the bearings is probably stuck to the axle. Can be a real pain the ass. If you get it out, grease that up well when you put it back together. And new bearings will be a necessity if you manage to get it out with all the banging you're going to do..

If you end up using destructive measures and cutting the axle or the swingarm, you'll be able to pound the axle out of the wheel even with the space seized to the axle becuase the bearing will then have room to come out with it. The wheel spacers and axle plate won't be holding the bearing in. Does that make sense?
 
I've been doing the old block of wood trick, but to no avail. The bike was on the center stand, and I will try hitting it again with the bike on the side stand. The only thing I seem to have been able to accomplish is incorrectly spelling the word "axle" (DOH!).
 
It sounds to me that the bearings are seized to the axle. It may take a few days of spraying lube on everything that you can see. When I put the airbag suspension on the front of my ranger awhile back, I actually had to spray lube once or twice a day and let it soak in for about a week, just to make the i-beam bolts budge. I would keep trying, and in the meantime just keep spraying. Eventually it will come out, unless something else is going on in there.
 
Sometimes a little heat can work wonders...and I don't mean heating the axle cherry red. Just a propane or MAPP torch and gentle warming from both ends- you might think of it as hot enough to solder, but not to braze. Do this after you have soaked everything you can in penetrant for a few days, then whack that thing when it's hot.

Yes, I know heat causes things to swell, but it can also break the bonds of corrosion long before anything has swollen enough to cause an issue.
 
Thanks again for your help, guys. I am going to try the heat thing tomorrow. I wonder if a heat gun would provide sufficient heat, as I would rather not use a torch. I was also wondering if the penetrant might be drawn in better while the parts are warm.
 
Don't know if the heat gun is enough, but it can't hurt to try it. Also, I believe you are right about heat helping the penetrant...penetrate.
 
you could try a fly wheel puller. it looks like a claw with a bolt in the middle. it put a lot of force on a small point to remove a pressed on fly wheel or stator.
 
Hey, guys. I can see a gap between the wheel and the spacer on the right side after I hit it a few times. This tells me that it is the right side spacer that is stuck, as the axle cap is still tight to the swingarm. I have been hitting it back in to place, and then starting over. I think the next thing I will try is to lay the bike on its side, to better allow the penetrant to soak in. I need to get the bike inside, so I can use heat on it as well. BTW, this is on one of my SR500s... I hope that doesn't upset anyone, as I realize this is a 400 website.
 
Hey, guys. I can see a gap between the wheel and the spacer on the right side after I hit it a few times. This tells me that it is the right side spacer that is stuck, as the axle cap is still tight to the swingarm. I have been hitting it back in to place, and then starting over. I think the next thing I will try is to lay the bike on its side, to better allow the penetrant to soak in. I need to get the bike inside, so I can use heat on it as well. BTW, this is on one of my SR500s... I hope that doesn't upset anyone, as I realize this is a 400 website.
Travis,

This calls for a third forum SR500's and SRX 600's love them, but never could find one I could afford to buy.

Danno, I'd like to buy this bike stuck axle and all.
 
Back
Top