To Winterize or NOT to Winterize?

[robindean]

So, I have a complicated decision to make.

I actually plan to ride during the winter (in Chicago), assuming there isn't snow on the ground. I'm not talking about a 75mph trip down Lakeshore Drive. I'm talking about "Honey, I have some errands for you to run" Target/grocery/hardware store type noise.

A friend of mine mentioned motorcycle winterization which poses the question(s): Would it be better for the bike if I DIDN'T use it this winter and, rather, put it in storage? If it makes no difference and riding is alright, what steps should I take to put the bike in "winter riding mode"?

Moreover, if storage is the better plan, is THIS guide to winterization missing anything?

 

[eric123]

At a minimum I change the oil and top off the gas tank and put sea foam in the gas. If I am positive it won't be ridden, I will drain the gas including the float bowls and fog the tank as well as the above mentioned oil change. I will also try to put the bike on the center stand(assuming it has one).

 

[Rat Bastard]

It is best to ride it whenever weather permits. Just keep the battery up and charged. Indoor storage if you have it. We have pretty long cold winters here in Idaho and I find it best to get them out and run when the snow melts between storms.

 

[robindean]

So, keeping her active on a ... let's say weekly basis is best practice even during the cold winter months? I'm totally game for that, assuming I can get a few more opinions to confirm

My "shut down and keep it stashed" storage would be a locked room that DOES get below freezing on the worst of days.

My "keep 'er runnin'" parking spot is semi-enclosed, meaning there's a roof but no walls, really. I do have a full sized cover, though.

Thoughts?

 

[OnePhate]

If you're gonna ride her during the winter, id say just keep the tank filled and add some seafoam. stuff works wonders.

 

[eric123]

Battery tender is a good idea, or pull it and store inside on a wood block...

 

[robindean]

Seafoam and a full tank ... understood. I do have a battery tender.

A fragment of my question still remains, though. What's better for the bike during the winter months? Storage or riding?

Thanks for the help, guys.

 

[eric123]

IMO the worst thing you can do to a bike is to not ride it...

 

[63-Coupe]

There was a similar topic on this last week;

http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6277

Your biggest enemy is moisture, not cold. Changes in temerature, especially without any air movement, can cause all sorts of condensation problems.

If you are going to use it over the winter avoid any short trips where the engine can't get up to a "normal" operating temperature for a while. That's worse than letting it sit.

 

[robindean]

This is all very helpful, thank you.

Now, I initially suggested that I'd try and make sure to get her out weekly. I stated this without really knowing if that would be enough.

Daily? Weekly? Monthly? What's best?

I realize that a decent response to this is "whenever you can" however I'd like to set a good minimum as a base.

 

[Ruined1]

I live in PA... I know what you mean about temperatures... However, I will be riding mine all winter long and not doing a damn thing different. Hell, it's already 33' where I'm at now and my bike still isn't "enclosed". I ride every day to and from work and sometimes 20~ miles. I'd recommend some gas additive (they say seafoam, I just use Star Tron every tank.)

You should probably trickle charge the battery and keep an eye on tire pressure, other than that you're good to go. My xs fires up within 2 seconds in 20~ weather so... I don't see an issue. WATCH FOR BLACK ICE!

 

[lhaolpa]

I also think riding on a regular basis is a good thing,but as mentioned,warm thoroughly,and not just around the block.Acids and moisture can build up,and be really bad on the bearings,etc.When warmed up well,you burn out all the moisture and keep all the parts well oiled.A battery maintainer is a good idea in the winter as cold temps will run the battery down and ruin it for good.I got one at Wal-Mart,a Schumacher,which is a good brand and comes with a permanent hookup so all you have to do is plug the bike in after riding and it automatically maintains a charge.I have a Dt400b[dirt bike],a '41 ford tractor,both 6v,and the xs400,which is 12v and can switch around to keep all charged. lha

 

[XSLeo]

Winter storage won't hurt a bike if properly prepped. Wash and dry the bike.
Put a fuel stabilizer in the tank. One designed for alcohol fuels.
Drain the float bowls, let them refill with the stabilized fuel. Ride it around to get the new fuel through the carbs. And warm the bike up good to finish drying the bike from washing.
Once at your storage site and the engine still warmed up, take of air cleaners. Use a good fogging oil to spray into the carbs as the engine idles. This coats the valves and cylinders, pistons with oil.
Now shut it down, drain the oil, clean or change oil filter. Put in fresh oil.
Now top off the fuel tank with fresh fuel mixed with the fuel stabilizer.
Drain float bowls. Spray the whole bike down with WD40. This will keep rust at bay.
Pull the battery and keep it in a cool place hooked to your Battery Tender, or any charger designed to be left hooked on full time. NO trickle chargers, they charge at a low amperage but the voltage is too high.
A breathable cover or a few old bed sheets to keep dust off. Must allow moisture to get out.
Now if you want to ride when temps are low, like in the 40's or 30's A lighter oil like a 10w40 will help it start better. In cold weather there is more condesation than in warmer weather. This condensation needs to be gotten out of the engine. Either change the oil more often. About 1/2 your regular change interval.
When you ride, ride at least a 1/2 hour at a time. This warms the oil enough to boil off the extra moisture.
Add the stabilizer to the fuel, the same applies to the fuel tank as the engine. Extra moisture from condensation.
Oh, Dress warm.
Leo

 

[robindean]

I recently hit the local auto store and bought a bottle of SeaFoam.

I've been following the instructions and adding 1oz. per gallon of gas.

My question is: is this something that I can/should do all year round, every time I fill the tank?

I think I might have confused this from the details in another posting. My current mentality is "add seafoam according to instructions all year at every fill up." - if this is NOT the case, I'd like to get my head straight via more experienced people such as yourselves.

I will be riding 'er this winter

 

[XSLeo]

The Seafoam is a good product. It will help keep your carbs clean.
One of the fuel suppliments designed to fight the alcohol in the fuel is a big help to fight corrosion in the fuel tank and carbs.
Leo

 

[robindean]

Yes ... but is all-year-round? Every fill up?

I'm willing to do this, assuming I can get some verification from a couple of ya

 

[lhaolpa]

Yes ... but is all-year-round? Every fill up?

I'm willing to do this, assuming I can get some verification from a couple of ya

I've been using Seafoam for 20+ years,and can say that it's a good product,and can be used in every tankfull. It is a stabilizer in itself,and I use it in my gas for small 2-stroke motors all the time along with 2-stroke oil.I also use Sta-bil for ethanol in the 2-stroke oil to counteract the effects of ethanol. I recently started my '41 ford tractor,which had seafoam and ethanol Stabil in the gas and had not been started for 7-8 months. it started right away,and ran about1-1/2 hours moving around a little dirt and dragging my neighbor's driveway with a backblade and it ran like it hadn't had a rest at all. I refilled the tank with fresh gas with sta-bil,seafoam and a little ATF for corrosion resistance.if you do that during the winter your bike will start up any time you're ready. lha

 

[OliverB]

Remember, no matter what gas treatment you put in the gas, these carbs don't like to stand for long periods of time. Starting gets a little more difficult after a week or two standing. Just the way it is with CV carbs. More cranking and throttle twists are required after a bike isn't used for a while. After they start, they often won't respond to throttle tweaks, dying out, until they run anywhere from several seconds or a minute or two. Some folks think there's something wrong with the bike when this happens. Just normal. Every CV carb motor I've ever had responded this way.

 

[lhaolpa]

Of course,the bikes should be run well every so often and the carb bowls drained while sitting.always run at least 30 minutes or more to heat up the oil and burn away condensate. lha

 

[cmoore352010]

I have a heated garage so will it still be recommended to "winterize" it? the garage is heated with a space heater mounted to the ceiling of the garage and it stays about 45-50 degrees in there all winter. I am rebuilding my bike this winter so "winterizing" probably won't apply to me this year but just for future years that i own it.