Recent content by CaptChrome

Every bike will be different, especially if there are changes to it other than the stock air box and muffler systems. But if the screws are already that far out, the lean conditions could also be caused by an air leak between the carbs and the engine, so you should also test your carb holders...

That is a classic symptom of the pilot circuit of your carburetors being too lean. You need to open the idle mixture screws on each carb. There have been a lot of discussions on this forum of how to do that, and some very recent explanations. Try to search for that info and if you have questions...

Welcome to the forum!

Welcome to the forum. I noticed the same in my 1981. There is no thrust bearing for the crank in this engine and no spec for the allowable end play. Just the same, I put a dial indicator on the end of the crank and got a max end play reading of 0.004" (0.102mm). I put it back together and have...

The wire colors in the Clymer drawing are wrong for your bike. On your bike the stator coil is the green and black wires. The blue is from the neutral switch and the yellow is from the oil pressure switch. So use the green and black for your test.

It is cheap. But, I would only use the gaskets, o-rings and the float needle/seat for putting the carbs back together and clean and reuse the original pilot, main and needle jets and the original jet needle. I especially don't trust the shape of that jet needle.

Looks really nice! That Virago front fork really does give the bike a nice stance. But, to me it is screaming out for the kick start lever to be put back on. It is too old school not to have that.

Well, at this point you probably don't have much to loose by taking a hammer and tapping on the left end to see if you can get the shaft to move out the right side. If the shaft is really that tweaked, I think opening up the cases is probably warranted as who knows how the selector drum and...

Here is one that should fit https://www.amazon.com/Carbman-Petcock-Special-XS1100-447-24500-02/dp/B07SWJ4N9J?asc_campaign=2b5a785186b501c352c95398a3440b1b&asc_source=01G906CFVNZ35AJ2JPV0Z6Y0B2&ref_=ast_sto_dp&tag=namespacebran129-20 Just check the distance between the mounting holes on your old...

Welcome to the forum! I don't want to be a wise guy here, but i am not sure what exactly you are doing when you describe the behavior, which makes it hard to offer up some advice. For example... ...is the clutch lever pulled in when you are doing this (I think it just be) or is the clutch...

Probably need to either rebuild the vacuum operated petcock or replace it with a manual petcock AND replace the float bowl valves and seats in both carbs as they seem to be leaking. Not addressing this has the potential to really F-up your engine, eventually, due to washing out oil to the bearings.

I just finished some recent rides to visit what might be termed "roadside Americana." In the 1800's Louis Renault took his grape vines from France, immigrated to the U.S. and established a winery in New Jersey. In the 1920s or 30s, the Renault winery built some roadside advertising in the form...

Also, pinned to the top of this forum (The Garage) are posts that have downloadable copies of both the Haynes and Yamaha factory shop manual.

Motion Pro (motionpro.com), Barnett (https://www.barnettclutches.com/cables.html), or Flanders (https://www.flanderscompany.com/pages/services) can make up custom length cables for you. If you have an independent motorcycle shop convenient to you, ask them if there is anyone who makes custom...

Yes, look at both. It sounds like fuel related issues to me. Once you get the fuel tank/fuel cock/carbs clean you should ride the bike a lot, or else completely drain the fuel from the tank and the float bowls of the carbs. Leaving a bike standing with fuel in it is asking for trouble.