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That's what I figured but I'm out of ideas. Pilots are stock 42.5's.

No smoke:( in-fact, very little of anything visual comes out of that right side. (But I can feel it at least.) There has been a bad smell lately, but don't connect it to burnt oil from my sense memory. I assumed it was possibly chain lube over-spray that was taking a veeeeeerry long time to...

Mr Bcware sir, the right plug is fouled. I know we've spoken about this in a previous thread where I was describing having it set to 2 turns out, the left 3 turns out. I'm intrigued by this oil fouling theory. When I put the new manifolds on, I turned it back to 2 1/2 turns each because I...

Thanks for the reply phate. To clarify: The bike requires full choke to start, (typical) but will only hold for a few seconds before the rpms dive and the bike sputters to death. I have to gradually turn the choke DOWN to keep the rpms UP. 2000 is the highest I can balance it between to much...

What do you all think? Bike requires full enrichment to start, but will only stay firing well for a few seconds before I have to back the switch down a bit. As the bike warms up, I have to slowly lower the switch to get the rpm's up. The more choke, the harder it is for the bike to run. I...

And the outcome:doh: When you read in these threads to check the easy things first, that means the REALLY easy things. As my bike was warming up yesterday, a coworker came out to chat, grabbed the rear blinker, wiggled it, and lo and behold! Life! This particular light assembly is not...

Thanks guys for your help. I have a tight schedule these next few days, but will try to find a couple hours tomorrow morning to get in there. I do get a full day off on Monday, but I would prefer to get this situated before then because hand signals suck on rainy nights. *Effing Seattle!!!

This is what I suspected was in store for me. With the multimeter, how do I test connectivity? Set it to ohms? How do I test the grounds?

Stock Flashers.

Hey gang. My right indicator lights stopped working two days ago and I have tried a few things to fix the issue with little success. The original symptoms: No light whatsoever on right rear. Front came on but stayed solid. Buzzing from flasher relay. Steps I took: 1. Pulled apart R...

The sound is definitely coming from the heads. The valves are unnervingly loud over 5000, but I understand that's normal. The sound I hear is most notable at idle when the engine is most quiet. Ive considered the the ignition issue, considering the right carb requires a full turn less of the...

Quick update. The fuel leak was coming from shredded o rings on the connection joint for the main fuel feed between the two carbs. Problem solved. The (vacuum) petcock has a slow drip, so I will rebuild it with a fresh kit this afternoon; however, since I fixed the fuel leak, I haven't...

I'm sending this from work tonight as I have to work the night shift. I rode with all of the tweeks mentioned earlier, and the bike sailed. I mean, it shot strait to 9 1/2 rpm's without flinching until I let off the throttle for fear of snapping something. Good news is, I've finally found my...

I realize the mains have jumped in a huge way, and I have no idea why this bike is telling me to do it. I went with 125's first and was able to climb over 6000 rpm for the first time but would begin choke at 7000. I then bought 130 and 135 sizes trying the 135's first and was able to reach 8000...

Thanks, BC. I'm right there with you. I figured the same thing about the float heights and did exactly as you recommended. I just finished installing the stock pilots and as it sits right now, the bike is running fantastic. I will see how it rides under load tonight when I go to work, and...

stock is 42.5 but I have pods so I experimented with the 45's. Stock mains are 115 and 117, but i am up to 135 with huge improvents and just through in some 140's to see if that is overdoing it. Would changing from 22mm float height to 26mm float height make it run richer? I adjusted those...

Is it possible that this is an issue with the strength of the spark? How would I check this? I can physically see the spark when is pulled out and grounded, and I pulled the coils and they both test to spec.

I spent quite a while trying to re sync them last night; they were perfect before the last carb cleaning and now are all over the place. I got it as close as I could and then gave up for the night. That is when I discovered the fowled plug. I went back down there this morning and got everything...

My right plug is showing very fowled. Ive tried everything I can think of to fix the issue. The carbs are as clean as they're going to get. Ive tried float heights between 22 and 26mm. Ive inspected and re-inspected the float valves. I have no air leaks that I can find on the right side...

Cool cool. yes Ive adjusted the valves, then re-adjusted when the new shims didn't quite fit spec perfectly. After all measurements were to spec, I noticed a huge difference in exhaust note, (the valves were waaaaaaaaaaay to tight,) and a small jump in power, but I also noticed a hell of a lot...