Wrong chain for Maxim 400?

wirehairs

wirehairs

XS400 Addict
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I've bought a 102 link 530 o-ring chain for my 82 Maxim 400. Besides the fact that it has a rivet master link (which I find annoying over the c-clip type), once I put it on the bike, the adjuster bolts bring the wheel well back, tightening the brake rod excessively, and bringing it near the end of it's adjustment range. I was pretty sure that a 102 link was spec for this bike, but maybe a 530 wasn't? Advice appreciated!
 
530 is the correct size chain. Did you replace your sprockets? If not, I'd strongly suggest you do. Your new chain will last much longer on new sprockets. C-clip master links are dangerous. They fail quite often on street bikes, and most manufacturers don't recommend them. A rivet master is obviously the strongest, but some manufacturers have a press fit master link available that is almost as strong.

If the brake rod is at the end of it's adjustment, you can remove the lever and index it forward one spline to get more adjustment. If 102 links is too long, the chain can be shortened. Just be certain that it is too long before shortening the chain. Be sure to have enough slack in the chain or you will stretch it when the suspension compresses and the slack runs out...
 
I think its pretty common for a new chain to be slightly longer than spec,They are made that way on purpose for custom fitting.You make have to take a link or two out of the chain that way you can get the proper fit and adjustment.
Like as Dave said your sprockets could be worn if you haven't changed them then do so.This would be a good time to change teeth and gear ratios also.
 
I had to take one link off my 102 link chain as well, I also have a DOHC bike. If you have the right tool for it, it's really easy. But if you have a rivet link chain you'll need one of those chain breaker tools anyways ;)

unless you're skilled with hammers and a right-sized nail (I had to do that because my chain breaker broke :laugh: )
 
Before you grind off a link, you may want to confirm that the chain will rotate without contact anywhere. I have read that the outside dimension of an O-ring chain is slightly greater than on a regular chain of the same nominal spec. And, on some bikes this can cause a problem. Don't know if one of those bikes is the xs400. Certainly, our bikes were made long before the invention of the O-ring chain, so it would be prudent to check first in case you need to return it for a regular chain.

Dave didn't mention it, but when he very kindly helped me with my new chain, we intentionally left extra links in to extend the wheel base a half inch. Works fine now - though the adjustment will run out half way through the life of the chain. At that point, I will have to remove it again and grind out another link so there is adjustment for the second half.

Also, we removed the excess links (mine came with 110 links) without any special tools - just a grindstone wheel on a 1/4" hand drill, so if you have those you don't need to buy a special tool.
 
I've been riding over 45 years and never owned a chain breaker. Never felt the need for one. A grinder and a set of pin punches work great. Just grind the pins down to flush or a bit into the side plate, set the link over a hole in something, I use a small socket or nut. Tap the pins out far enough to get the side plate off then the rest of the link slides out of the chain.
In all those years I've never had a clip type master link fail.
To install the chain slide the wheel all the way forward. Put the chain on the sprockets. On the rear of the rear sprocket you will have the ends over lap as they lay on the sprocket. This shows you just how much to cut off. Remember when you cut a chain you remove two links, one inner link and one outer link. The inner link holds the rollers, the outer holds the pins.
Cut as needed, install the chain with what ever master you prefer.
Now adjust the wheel back to get the proper free play.
Leo
 
I just heard from a guy last week who had a fairly new chain and clip master link fail on him. The link plate (with the pins) of the master link snapped, the clip popped off one of the pins and the chain came apart. He was lucky, it happened in his driveway as he was leaving for a ride and no damage was done to him or the bike.

When I was recently researching what chain to buy to replace the worn out cheap chain I had, I found that most every high end street chain comes with a rivet master link. Some manufacturers offer an optional press fit master link, and very few offer clip master links, and I didn't find any quality O or X-ring chains with clip master links, even as an option. Again this is for street use. A clip master link is nowhere near as strong as a riveted master link, and has too much play, so what is the point in buying a chain rated at 9000+ lbs tensile strength if the master link is only good for 4000 lbs?

Off road, it doesn't matter as there isn't enough traction, on the street there is and it does.
 
Thanks to everyone who replied to my thread. Indeed, I changed both sprockets when I changed the chain, so I'm good there. With lower power bikes, I think c-clip masters are fine, but accidentely bought a rivet link type on Ebay. My issue with these is just that I'll have to grind off and replace the master link every time I need to remove the rear tire, like to change the bearings, deal with a flat, check the brake shoes... that's annoying in my book! And now this particular chain is too long as well... :( Oh well; I'll know better for next time.
 
no you don't... you can just push out one of the pins without having to grind anything? Grinding is just a little easier when you're just removing things which you'll throw out anyways, but there is no actual need for it. The chain breaker tool doesn't actually destroy anything permanently.
 
The chain install tool widens/deforms the end of the rivets in the master link to install, thus preventing them from backing out. While it might be possible to force some rollers through on regular chain links, reinstalling them afterwards, I assume, will lead to rollers out of spec and the possibility of them sliding back through accidentally.
 
wirehairs said:
With lower power bikes, I think c-clip masters are fine
Click to expand...

I wish I'd taken a pic of the 1 year old (15,000 km / 9,300 mi) clip master link I removed from my bike. The pins were significantly worn where they pass through the side plates. :yikes: I lube my chain every day, so that wasn't the cause of the wear. It was from the free-play that is inherent to the design.

Despite the hassle of other master links, I won't use a clip master on the street again. It simply isn't worth the risk of damage or injury from a failure. I haven't tried it yet, but I believe that it is possible to remove the rear wheel, without breaking the chain, once the axle has been removed.
 
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