XS GP4 build

I love how this bike is coming together!

I was finally able to make some more progress. Nothing major but every little bit helps. Also, I learned a nice tip from the YouTube's for installing my own rubber .

Don't remember where the video is but he idea is using thick plastic bottles as rim protectors when using irons. In the video the guy used orange juice bottles but I opted for old laundry detergent instead. The HDPE plastic is thick enough to protect the finish and soft enough to be flexible. This was my first time using proper irons on mag wheels. In my younger days it was a flathead screwdriver for spoked dirt bike wheels.

I learned that having a little air in the tube is helpful. I've always done it with the tube totally flat. The air in helps. Once I could do anymore with my hands it levered on easy enough.
With the first side on easy enough I flipped the wheel over and using the three protectors I worked my way around the wheel. Took a little wrestling by myself but eventually got it no Nick's or Mars to the finish.
Things I could do differently next time to make it easier. Leave the tyre in the sun to soften it up. Use soapy water, maybe a little baby powder.
Once I finished the skinny old wheels I installed a modern 160 sport bike wheel the 160 went on MUCH easier. I think the width helped a lot.
Having the right tools has really helped a lot. I balanced the wheel for my SV and had it installed in about 1 hour from start to finish. Saved riding to the local shop and lighting my wallet.

I couldn't help myself so I went ahead and installed the rotors on and put them on the bike just for warm fuzzys.

The back is a little fatter than the stock ones but it has a really nice look.
Here's a comparison of the two tyres side by side.
My next focus is getting my fairings so that I can get them mounted up to determine the proper stance for the rear shock setup as well as what the final tank shape needs to be. The wheels really tired out great and they are really helping it look like my initial inspiration.
Hopefully I can do another update sooner than later but I have another two week work trip coming up so we'll see.
Until next time.

Looks great! Want to see this finished.

I gave up after killing a tube on mine I also found a local place that did it for 20 bucks and rims looked perfect when I picked them up.......I still had to touch up the paint after I was done with it

No tube yeah I can do those ok. Not sure what my issues are.......

spectra said:

Looks great! Want to see this finished.

I gave up after killing a tube on mine I also found a local place that did it for 20 bucks .......

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Harbor freight has a tire changer with motorcycle wheel attachment. It's not the best but I know it would make the process even better. Especially breaking the bead on my newer bikes. It's definitely one of my next major tool purchases. The way I've been going through tires having the ability to do them at my own discretion will be nice. If I do enough maybe I'll get the whole process down to about 30 minutes. Or maybe I can train my 16 year old to do it while I'm at work and pay him 5 bucks when I get home.

Did a side job for some extra cash so hopefully the fairings for the xs can get ordered while I'm on the road and I can tackle them in early October.

Thanks for this great thread. Your craftsmanship is an inspiration. And your photography is great too.

Thanks Bill I appreciate the feedback. I've slowed down due to work travel recently but I am waiting on the fairings to come in. I have already received the windscreen from Florida, man we're they quick!
Once the fairings come in I'll be moving up the bike for mounting brackets, and for the ride height and stance I'm looking for. That way I can decide if I want to use my stock rear suspension or upgrade as well as possibly relocating the mount points. No new photos as of now but I'm doing my best to keep the whole build documented to inspire future projects of others. If only I was more consistent I could get this done quicker. Although in fairness when it's nice I'm riding my other bikes and when I don't have money that tends to slowly some things down. With the fairings paid for now most of my large expenses are clear. Now it's more fabrication and small stuff like chain, sprockets, etc. Should make for a good winter project.

Wow!! 2.5 months goes by fast. I have been working on the bike and been taking pictures for the thread. First things first.

I've been adding tools to the shop and built myself a nice wheeled cart to minimize steps during the build process.
That held me over until the fairings came in. And as soon as they did it was time to make some big decisions. With the fairings I was no longer going to need a headlight and I had to decide if I should keep either the center stand, or the side stand, or both, or neither. So I chose neither and removed all of it to make way for a more purebred race approach. It always amazes me how heavy even the horn can be.
The stands also helped shed some weight and make room for the fairing belly. with that stuff out of the way I started on the front fairing. The fairings came with the stock mounting locations and I will figure out a way to use them if I can. So to mount the front fairing a scavenged an old steel rod to weld to the steering stop on the front of the frame. I used a harbor freight arc welder to do the dirty work making sure to protect the tire and wheel with a leather apron. It's been a long time since I've done any welding but this will pretty much never be seen so I figured I'd be alright.
With the weld done I needed to put a nice arc on the support to get it where I needed it to match the fairing. Once I have that I plan on making an aluminum adjustable mount with set screws to attach the fairing. In the meantime I'll use a small block of wood as a stand in.

Oh yeah I almost forgot. While I was working on this a photographer buddy of mine snapped a few nice shots of the welding. He just bought his first bike and I'm doing what I can to immerse him as deeply into two wheeled culture as possible.


I'm not sure how many images I can upload at a time so I'm going to break this into a few separate uploads.

With the kickstands removed I started to attempt to fit the fairings designed for a 4 cylinder, liquid cooled two stoke; on to a 2 cylinder, air cooled four stroke. It became clear very quickly I would be cutting to make room for the wider frame and geometry. I did all I could to keep as much of the fairing as possible but in the end I had to remove quite a bit of the belly. I may graft a new belly on the bottom when it's said and done. Or I may leave it open. Not sure yet. I'm really not happy with the way things are sitting and when. I tried to sit on it it became clear that I didn't fit. The tank is too short, the tail is to low, the front is too high. It's going to take some tweaking but it'll come together. I will start over with the tank as this shape is all wrong. Dropping the front and fixing the rear shock height will help me get the proper stance and make room for me to fit better on the bike. Bit MOST importantly I need to see who she'll look with graphics. A little painters tape later, an adjustment to the altitude of the front fairing, and viola...
It's looking better but it's still not right. I really need to fix the rear shock to get a better ride height and more aggressive race geometry in the frame. So it's time to decide on how to modify the rear shock. My initial thought was to simply change the angle and lower it on the existing frame tube like this. a lot of people have done this and it does raise the rear the desired amount but for every degree steeper the shock is mounted the stiffer and less helpful the suspension becomes. And I really want this bike to ride as nice as it looks. So I chose not to go this route. I needed to raise the rear while maintaining the proper shock angle. So here's what I did.....I took the original rear pegs frame sections..
My plan is to cut them and repurpose them to make new shock mounts. Like this...
This should give me about two, to two and a half inches if lift. I'll use some strap steel to make new shock mounts.
Next I surgically removed the old mounts with a cutoff wheel.
Probably unnecessary, but I'll end this one due to the number of pictures. I'll pick up where I left off.

Where were we? Ah yes......I borrowed a mig welder as I didn't feel confident getting a clean weld with the arc welder. It's been even longer that I've used a mig but it should give me a little better looking and more quality weld.
The recycled rear peg frame worked like a charm and doesn't look too bad. The welds aren't the prettiest but I've seen worse. It's safe to say no one soon will be hiring me to weld for a living. (Actually, after uploading this it looks better on screen than on person.) with that done I was able to turn my attention the the strap steel for the shock mounts. I made paper templates then I cut the tombstones with a jigsaw and ground them to match on the grinder.
This is the idea.
And this is the result...
Got a tap and die set because every man should own one.
Having the right tools for the job makes it so enjoyable. And I am able to use the stock mounting bolts if I want.
Next I'll focus on actually mounting the fairing with brackets.

I made my paper template.
Confirmd that it would fit and I allowed enough slack for bends.
The all thread in the above photo is using the very convenient piece of tube on the front of the frame. And the paper template fits nice. You can see the all thread better in this shot.
With my shape decided I made my stainless brackets out of some wonder metal that took 3 jigsaw blades to cut!Bend them up on a vice with a hammer..
They fit just as nicely as the paper templates.
And,...they allow me to use quick release Dzus fastener's. it makes the fit very snug. And the shape from the front is wonderful!
With the taller rear shock the stance is starting to come together nicely! I need to get the tank to a better shape but she's really coming along.

And that pretty much gets me all caught up with my recent progress. Next steps will be finalizing fairing mounts for the front and rear cowl. A d relocation of wiring and fuses into cowl or into the air box area.
Cheers

Great stuff, will be keeping an eye on your project! Good luck!

So far this bike is looking amazing! Keep up the hard work this gives me motivation to go back on to working on mine.

Tons of inspiration here. Thanks!

Did you powder coat the wheels?

I would like to have the paint code if you don't mind for your wheels.

Stpierre said:

Did you powder coat the wheels?

I would like to have the paint code if you don't mind for your wheels.

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Post #8 in the thread its rattle can.

Sorry I must of missed that part.
Just wondering how it will hold up.

Thank you.

Stpierre said:

Sorry I must of missed that part.
Just wondering how it will hold up.

Thank you.

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No problem and I kind of like the idea of rattle can. I did the same on a frame and wheels on one of my builds. I have found over the years powder coat is a PITA to touch up if something happens.......and then it doesn't even come lose to matching......rattle can is pretty bullet proof when it comes to touch up and as for the match its spot on.

So you have used this on rims before?
I rattle can all my motorcycle body parts with automotive paint and then use a spray Max K2 clear which makes it gas proof.

I just always powder coat my rims and frame but this may be a new alternative if you tell me it is durable.

This is a two part clear.

Stpierre said:

So you have used this on rims before?
I rattle can all my motorcycle body parts with automotive paint and then use a spray Max K2 clear which makes it gas proof.

I just always powder coat my rims and frame but this may be a new alternative if you tell me it is durable.

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I have not used what he did. I have done 2 sets of rims with SEM Trim Black and love the stuff. I blasted the rims first though. So far so good and well if touch up is needed its pretty simple. Hell the build in my avatar pic is all trim black on almost everything. Motor parts, wheels and frame......I even did the calipers with it just keep the fluid off of them.

I did use a rattle clear on my rims in my maxim build but have not had it out yet........still building.