Now that I have a better idea of your situation, how did you set the timing? Did you remove and clean the ATU? Everything in that pocket is more important than the type of fuel youre using. Setting the timing by static method can only get you so far. You need a timing light to verify both idle and full advance on both cylinders.
The ATU needs to be removed cleaned and lubed, I do it once a season. I check the points gap and timing with every oil change or when the bike tells me it needs attention, occasionally its good enough to skip. OK enough about timing for now. Then it goes down to valve clearance, its all connected...
If you are using aftermarket jets, you will have more problems tuning. Aftermarket jets are a lot different from genuine jets. The sizing and orifice is just wrong on aftermarkets.
I run my bike from 40 to 100+ degrees F and I dont feel the need to re-jet for temps. I may have slight issues at both extremes but its manageable. I should also mention that I use the factory air filters and H-pipe and have Emgo tapered mufflers. Therye the best option IMO if youre on a budget. They have a good baffle with a deflector inside. Theyre good for me when I start it up at 5am, and they are loud when you get on it going up the on-ramp.
If the bike runs good initially and worse as it warms up, youre probably too rich. If you can start the bike cold with no choke, then youre probably too rich. If the plugs are sooty at all, I think youre still too rich. The plugs should be dry and black/grey/ashy color, any specks on the porcelain and youre too lean. The color should take a while to build up, like maybe 200 miles. If youre pulling out black or wet and sooty plugs before then, youre too rich.
When you choose your main jet, the tuning has only just begun lol. I use 130 or 132.5 mains and I had to drop the needle jet one notch to lean it out a little. You should be able to narrow it down to two sizes for your main jet that will be acceptable. Above 6k rpm is where the main jet starts to come into use. You need to decide on the main size before you move on to the rest.
CV carbs take time to react to your input, adapt the roll-on approach.
The ATU needs to be removed cleaned and lubed, I do it once a season. I check the points gap and timing with every oil change or when the bike tells me it needs attention, occasionally its good enough to skip. OK enough about timing for now. Then it goes down to valve clearance, its all connected...
If you are using aftermarket jets, you will have more problems tuning. Aftermarket jets are a lot different from genuine jets. The sizing and orifice is just wrong on aftermarkets.
I run my bike from 40 to 100+ degrees F and I dont feel the need to re-jet for temps. I may have slight issues at both extremes but its manageable. I should also mention that I use the factory air filters and H-pipe and have Emgo tapered mufflers. Therye the best option IMO if youre on a budget. They have a good baffle with a deflector inside. Theyre good for me when I start it up at 5am, and they are loud when you get on it going up the on-ramp.
If the bike runs good initially and worse as it warms up, youre probably too rich. If you can start the bike cold with no choke, then youre probably too rich. If the plugs are sooty at all, I think youre still too rich. The plugs should be dry and black/grey/ashy color, any specks on the porcelain and youre too lean. The color should take a while to build up, like maybe 200 miles. If youre pulling out black or wet and sooty plugs before then, youre too rich.
When you choose your main jet, the tuning has only just begun lol. I use 130 or 132.5 mains and I had to drop the needle jet one notch to lean it out a little. You should be able to narrow it down to two sizes for your main jet that will be acceptable. Above 6k rpm is where the main jet starts to come into use. You need to decide on the main size before you move on to the rest.
CV carbs take time to react to your input, adapt the roll-on approach.
