No, it wont run if the cam is 180* out.
Could be a lot of reasons for the bike not running. To check the governor (ATU) for being 180 out, take it out and the three slashes on the cam lobe and the notch on the backing plate should line up.
View attachment 34431 This is a new never used one. It also looks the same as the one in my 79.
The notch is by the arrow. If the bike ran perfect when you got it and then after you started to adjust things it developed issues, I would think that's the problem. If you never had the ATU out it should be fine. Those do need to be pulled apart cleaned and oiled from time to time. But I would do that after you figure other things out.
Could be a lot of reasons for the bike not running. To check the governor (ATU) for being 180 out, take it out and the three slashes on the cam lobe and the notch on the backing plate should line up.
View attachment 34431 This is a new never used one. It also looks the same as the one in my 79.
What happened to the choke knob?
The idle will change as the bike warms up. The bike needs to be fully warmed up when you make your carb adjustments. My bike does not like being cold lol. Its fine when its warmed up though. You should always need the choke to start it. Try priming it by kicking a couple times with the choke on before you attempt to start it. Youll need to leave the choke on for a minute or two while it idles.
Obviously its possible for a screw to back itself out. I havent experienced it with an idle screw, even on my harley and I can adjust it using my fingers. Id think it would be more gradual rather than a drop-off to a stall.
Seems like youre on the right track, just need to do more fine tuning. The carb sync with manometer is crucial. The carbs wont be truly balanced until you use a real gauge.
What air filter and exhaust setup are you using?
Here is a pics of a cheap to do home made manometer. A member made this. It's a little big but works as it should.
View attachment 34634
Well, you should be able to get the bike running with that setup. As to how close you can get it to perform as if it were stock???
The aftermarket stuff can complicate things, especially when tuning and trying to diagnose things.
The manometer sync needs to happen first. You need to do this. Make a gauge or buy one. I ended up buying a Motion Pro gauge after buying bikes that are 4 cylinder. Its expensive, but its well worth it if you have multiple bikes, the tool sees quite a bit of use.
I did make a manometer out of 2 beer bottles, air supply line, and used JB weld to seal it all up, it was complete trash lol. I cant believe how long that thing has lasted and how accurate it was. I still have it somewhere out there.
I do not know if pod air filters will make the manometer not work accurately, this is where it gets complicated. I just dont know the answer to this one... The cylinders will never be perfectly balanced and Ive ridden with them very slightly off before. Anything more than "very slightly off" and youll be stalling and erratic idle and bad power.