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Works fine as of today, finally got to ride her around the neighborhood. Front brake still drags and I can't tell when the transmission shifts, and the tires feel like they're way too old, but it's incredibly fun.

That was the first thing I fixed. Scrubbed it down till everything shined. Fuses and box are good. I resoldered the button a few weeks ago, it works fine, tested and all.

Got the bike to start! No flames, but idled at 5000 rpm, the throttle plate was adjusted wrong. Then after messing with it for a time, the starter button stopped working. More electrical gremlins.

HTC One has a camera feature that improves low light pictures, but turns them blue. Mine works all the time unless the sun is shining right on the object. Kinda annoying but it's not worth replacing the phone.

So I cleaned off the inside of the port, where the gasket sits, and poked a hole in some copper. They sit much better now. about 1/4 inch at the widest, and I can probably live with that. The edge of the port was cleaned off and I trust that it seals.

I'm planning on selling the bike, but I refuse to sell someone else a heap, which is why I'm making her ridable for whoever wants her. I definitely want to close the gaps, but would a minor leak cause trouble with running?

Well the flanges are pressed up to the rim of the pipe, and the gasket is where it ought to be, so shouldn't it be well sealed?

I'm thinkin I'll start it, and check for leaks, but I may have the flanges themselves cut some to close the gap, assuming theres not a leak.

Yep, that's how everything is set up. I still have that gap though. Should I try starting it and checking that it's air tight, or try to fix the gap now?

My gasket is as thick as the width of yours, just about square if you cut a cross section. Is there a certain way to install the flanges? I just held them on with one hand around the pipe as yours are, and pushed the collar in with the other hand. Do your studs have any threads showing out of...

Also, the flanges are mounted with one on the top, and one on the bottom.

The flanges are mounted with the flared end towards the finned collars. I used the mike's XS gaskets, look to be some kind of fiber surrounded by aluminum/tin/steel. only used one per head pipe, checked inside the port and scraped the soot off with a small screwdriver, there didn't seem to be...

So I finally got all the parts I've needed to get the bike running, here it's been two months and change. I went to mount the exhaust and I'm having an issue with too much space between the collars that mount to the studs, they seem way to far off of the head. The bags have the part number for...

I have the stockers, and though I've not ridden with them yet, I have a feeling I'll hate them. Also, jumped from car battery, starter turned! Tried repeating this with my safety relay plugged in, and sure enough, nothing. Popped out relay, set it on a rubber mat for insulation (metal...

I heard a straight piped 550 and loved it. I'll just try getting this one fixed up before I look at others.

You and I both. Maybe if I was laid back in a harley, those handlebars would be warranted, but not here. I still don't know if I want to keep it and build it, or ride it awhile and sell for something bigger or different. Being that it's my first bike.

I'll go jump it with the car battery to check when I get home then. I'll go check the starter cable resistance too. When I get to wally, look for Taiwan, got it.

Also, from my understanding, the starter solenoid is just a heavy relay, the red/white ignition wire being "hot", and the blue/white wire running the electricity back to ground. When the red/white wire is closed all the way to power, and the starter button closes, the power closes the solenoid's...

A wally world 12 amp hour one would be fine, right?

Yes, I charged it all night, but it still reads around 10.5V.