Changed my sprocket, Now my snap ring doesn't fit.

rugbywarrior89

rugbywarrior89

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Like the title says, I put the sprocket on then the washer (I think the manual calls it a spacer, and now the snap ring just barely doesn't fit back into the groove. Has anybody else had this problem? Any ideas. A hammer comes to mind but I'd rather not buy a new wheel:D I know I got the right sprocket but for the record:

82' Heritage special
Spoke wheels
Drum Brakes
JT Sprockets JTR854.37 37T Steel Rear Sprocket
 
My new sprocket had the same issue, the powder coating on it was just a bit too thick. Slight sandpaper job and snap ring went right on.
 
thanks for the reply Wolfe. I've been racking my brain for a while. I tapped the snap ring a few time with a punch to see if it would slide in but I didn't want to wail on it and break anything. I will sand it down a bit and probably wire wheel the washer really well to make sure there's no debris blocking it. It kinda worries me to take the coating off the metal for corrosion reasons but I guess it beats having a shiny sprocket sitting on a shelf and a bike not going anywhere. I'm rather surprised nobody else has had any issues like that.
 
When I did mine, one of the members inspected his in order to advise me and he discovered that his PO had installed it on backwards and so it was slightly offset.
We had the dohc so yours may be a different sprocket - but it's one more thing to be sure about before wailing.
If you ride at all regularly, the sprocket fudge ought to offer more than enough protection against corrosion.
 
Oh crap! I never thought about it being backwards. I didn't pay attention taking it off.:doh::banghead: Maybe I can figure it out based on the smudge stains on the old sprocket. There is a one inch wide groove on one side of the sprocket. I installed it towards the outside because I figured those metal doohickies that bend around the nut it fit into that groove. Am I wrong?

also, good point about the corrosion. It would appear I'm having a De Da Dee kind of day.:shrug:
 
that was talking about the front sprocket placement, nothing about rear. The manual on this site has pics but that are really poor quality. If I had to guess though I would say the flat side goes out. I will just have to take it back apart tonight and flip it to see what happens. Thanks for your help though.
 
Flipped it over and it worked like a charm. What I thought was a groove for the metal safety plates (is that what they're called?:umm:) was actually a groove for the studs to fit in. Got that on and my yellow chain. It looks pretty sick. After I oiled it up and spun the tire by hand, it seemed to click as the links met the sprockets louder than I anticipated but I assume that's because everything is new and needs a minute to break in and get comfy with one another :)bed:). Thanks for the help all.
 
I can move the bottom of the chain 1/2" to 3/4" like the manual says. Of course, it doesn't say how much pressure needs to be exerted on said chain to get that 3/4" but mine is a fairly stiff push.
 
I test the chain with me sitting on the bike. Checking it at different sections by rolling the bike up to one full rotation of the rear wheel. The slack is just that with little on no pressure to move it other than the weight of the chain.
 
Well that's good to know. I will recheck it when I set it back on the ground. Its all taken apart right now and its really hard to get it back on the stand on a smooth concrete floor. I got it up the last time out of shear anger and annoyance.:shrug:
 
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