Follow up to bike almost crushing me (Oil bolt fun!)

DanMach

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So I went out there to try and yank that bolt off again... but sure enough! Nope. The irwin extractor socket stripped the bastard. I'm now open to suggestions lol.

Normally I would get a pilot hole going and then pound in the extractor part to try and turn it out, but I can't get a drill under the engine to do it. I'm thinking that a file and a smaller extractor socket might do it? Im not sure though because the bolt feels like butter whenever I torque it at all. It just strips again right away.

Also I'm worry about sheering the head off the bolt because the oil bolt on the DOHC's are hollow as they double as a bypass valve. So if I sheer the head off, I've lost most of my ability to use an extractor on it...

so.. ya... :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
I don't know if you've tried, but I've had great luck with a large vicegrip. I use one that is designed for plumbing, but it grips stripped bolts super tight if you can get it on with the right pressure. Also remember to use jerky motions rather than applying constant pressure (kicking seems to work well)
 
I tried with a pair of vicegrips but same thing, it was just stripping it more... however I haven't really gaven it my all. I was, as I said, afraid it would sheer the head off.

Although I guess if the head sheers off nothing was going to get it extracted short of welding another nut head onto it..
 
jmd: Thats the long term fall back plan but I don't have any welding equipment, experience, or know anyone with any. How does one find a welder??
 
I actually had an interesting ordeal with a bleeder screw and a pair of vicegrips last week. You really have to put your back into making sure it really bites into the metal. Otherwise, as you've experienced, it'll come loose and just shear more bolt off with it.
 
You may have to fall back on the welding approach. You can likely rent a welder for a couple of bucks a day. If you can ride the bike you can probably take it to your nearest high school with a welding shop, slip some kid a 10-er, and have him do it for you.
 
Im gonna go try and smash on an 11mm extractor socket in a bit. I've emailed and left voice mails at a few near by fab shops. I'm sure one of them will be cool with welding a big ass nut onto it. Seeing how the bolt's 'washer' is part of the bolt they'll have a ton of surface area to weld to.

This bike loves to increase my stuck bolt knowledge.
 
if you're going to replace the bolt anyway (sounds like it's needed) take a cold chisel and start tapping it into the flange aera of the bolt at a angle, and remember left loose right tight and don't be fooled by being upside down
 

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Holy shit Jayel.. that is genius lol. Thanks man!! Ya, being upside down has fooled me a few times before, but thankfully ratchets work the same upside down :p
 
Quick update: So I filed the bolt down for a while until I got an 11mm irwin extractor socket onto it a touch, then I hammered it on. IT was on there snug as hell. So I got my 30 inch breaker bar and got it on there. Using a rubber mallet I pounded it, thought it finally broke free for a moment but the socket just ripped off more metal. So I tried the cold chisel method, but it was just cutting through the metal.. no movement of the bolt.

So i'm going to find a welder tomorrow or tuesday(most will be closed tomorrow in america, holiday). Annoying, irksome, and tiring, but I've gotta get that stupid oil filter bolt off.

On the upside, I ordered new sprockets today(17t front, 35 rear), brake gear, and a new petcock assembly. Next week I'll do tires and it'll be "done" (lol) for a while I hope.
 
To find a local welder, Google is your friend. Try googling "welder Pheonix, AZ" and see what comes up. Make sure you bring a wrench with you so you can try removing the bolt while it is still hot.
 
I remember seeing a guy hit a bolt on my exhaust with a propane torch til that fucker was cherry red, then he sprayed cold water on it and broke the bolt loose. I've done the same and it's worked. The heat expands the metal and the cold contracts it, making the bolt temporarily "looser" so you can start turning it out.

Smashing and all of that never works. Better next time to file it down to the next smaller size in mm's and then use a six sided socket to remove. 12 sided sockets are nut rounders, in my experience. Same thing happened on my valve covers and I had to file them flat and use 6 sided.

Good luck.
 
You might try a plumbers pipe wrench, they will grip about anything,
they will grip a round pipe and hold it. Get one big enough to give you
good leverage on the nut/bolt. The pipe wrench will grip hard enough to damage
whatever you grab with it but the bolt is history any how. I keep a big one and a
small one handy and they never fail me.
 
12 sided sockets are nut rounders, in my experience. Same thing happened on my valve covers and I had to file them flat and use 6 sided.

Good luck.

Ok I don't mean to be a douche but I have to call this out. 12 pointed sockets are meant for 12 pointed bolts. They can take more torque which is why they're used in critical points like headbolts. Don't use them on a regular bolt because they clearly have much less contact patch
 
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