New rider, just bought an '84 XS400, any advice?

gtg2034

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Hi all,

New to the forums :) I just bought myself an '84 XS400 that's running very well (though cosmetically it's a bit shabby..), I'm not very mechanically inclined however..

Do you have any general advise on riding/maintaining these bikes? Little things that I need to know as an XS400 rider etc.

Thanks very much!

G
 
Hi and welcome to the forum. If it's an '84, must be a DOHC version - is it a Maxim (5-spd) or a Seca (6-spd)? Same frame and engine but different tanks, seats, wheels, bars, guages etc.
While an xs400, few parts are interchangeable with the more plentiful sohc models. But the techniques, problems and solutions are surprisingly similar so this forum is the place to be (when you aren't out riding).

If it is running well, try and keep it that way by installing, ASAP, an in-line fuel filter if there isn't one already. At less than $3 and 5 minutes of work, it could be the best maintenance bang for your 3 bucks you will ever see. I bought my Maxim last year and thanks to the PO who had done it over, it ran perfectly. I installed the filter on the advice of people on here and if there is was ever any rust powder or sediment in my tank, none of it got to my carbs. I have put on 13,000 kms and haven't had to touch the carbs. This is VERY unusual.

Preserve what you have first, improve things that could use it second.
To preserve what you have and to avoid newbie-owner-inflicted damage, read all my threads and compile a list of bad things you could easily do too - without foreknowledge. If it ain't broke, don't be in a hurry to fix it. Don't over-tighten anything. Even if you are excited and just can't wait. Better to have a drip and the need to tighten a touch more tomorrow than to snap a critical part which is now out of production. The wait is longer for the repair than it is to take proper care.

After the in-line filter is installed, siphon or drain all the PO's old gas out and put it in your car's tank next fill-up. Try to buy ethanol free gas, especially if there is a chance the bike will sit for more than a few days. Shell, Esso, Ultra-Mar and some PetroCan stations have ethanol free premium. Other companies put ethanol in ALL their blends (2 different marketing philosophies). Pioneer, Husky, UPI and some PetroCan stations (those that used to be Sunoco and sell 94 octane) are therefore ones to avoid.

Download the Seca manual on this forum and read about stuff like how tight to tighten (torque) things. Don't worry if yours is a Maxim. All the serious stuff which could blow up, implode, burst or catch fire is the same for both.

Oh, and most important of all, post pictures on here - before several of the people who actually know what they are doing accuse you of not really having a bike.

Enjoy!
 
Welcome G!

awesome post Lou! :thumbsup:

Fully agree with everything. Would just like to add some further steps.

Before you ride, check your oil level. There is no measuring stick, there is a very handy oil level window on the side of the engine. If you don't know how and where, look in the manual or have a search on the forum here. Use the google custom search btw, it's much better than forum search. If your oil level is not correct, don't ride another inch. Change your oil first. If it's at the right level, you can carefully ride the bike for a little while to get to know your bike.

When you've got a fuel filter installed (the right way around, be careful I've seen alot upside down), posted pictures, read through the entire manual and know it by heart, do an oil change if you hadn't already. Unless the PO can tell you he just did one a week ago and shows you the receipt/bill, you don't know how long it's been in there. Better to be safe and put some fresh oil in.

Also check everything for wear. Brake pads, brake shoes, brake disc, brake fluid, chain, sprockets, tires, spark plugs (replace preventively, theyre cheap), spark wires+caps. It's all in your manual, and takes about 5 minutes. Also change your front fork oil, grease all greaseable parts (cables, steering head, axles, choke mechanism, chain, etc) and check under the seat for any wiring that looks poorly maintained. Make sure you prevent all problems you can. Replace any wearable parts that have exceeded their lifespan.

Then go for further checkups. Valve adjustment+carb sync, chain tension, set up your rear suspension the way you like it (it's an adjustable monoshock, you can access it under the seat). Am I forgetting anything guys?
 
Of course we have still forgotten things - these are xs400s and the parts list is long :wink2:
I thought I had covered all the things which could blow up, implode, burst or catch fire and then you had to come up with oil. I guess you need oil too. There is bound to be more. lol

On the subject of oil, another critical item is to NOT use car oils with friction modifiers. Your beautiful bike has a wet clutch (more like an oily clutch if you ask me). And, if you aren't careful, you can "modify" the friction right out of it. You can spend between $3 and $17 per litre and not wreck anything as long as it says MA on the label.

I can't believe I forgot about my chain break. I was lucky - it was on a lazy shift from 1st to 2nd and it didn't wrap around anything and lock the rear wheel up.
Keeping the chain in proper adjustment is vital, of course. But figuring out when it is stretched to the limit and needs replacement is even more important. I was told by several old timers that you need to grab the chain in the middle of the back sprocket and pull back hard. If the chain is good it will give a little, that's all. If it needs replacing, it will kind of bunch up between you fingers. Not sure I will know it, if/when I see it, but I will be pulling my chain (no pun intended) at regular intervals from now on - unless someone knowledgeable comes on here and indicates it's an old wives' tale.... anyone?
 
I`ll throw in my 02 but it wont be as long winded as Lous post.Dont jet it ,dont pod it leave it stock and enjoy riding it.Do all your maintance during the off season if you can.
 
Thank you guys! I appreciate all the support, and from a fellow Ontario rider too thanks Lou :)

My model is the Maxim, I'll post the pic I have right now and take some more this weekend for sure. I'll probably end up taking more than necessary ;)

Just to be safe, there are .pdf files for the '82 XS400, I can use those for my '84 correct?

I just took possession an hour ago but unfortunately I have to go to work now, so I won't be able to play with it until tomorrow (as long as it doesn't thunderstorm like it said..).

The PO told me to always use regular oil as the premium stuff is too fine, does this sit well with you guys? It seems this bike was his baby and he did a lot of the fixing up himself, so there's no paperwork for it but it seems to run very well, no leaks or strange noises, cold start etc.

Lou how involved is installing the in-line fuel filter? I really don't know much at all about bikes, though I found this article and I'm very willing to learn:

http://www.bikebandit.com/community...eplace-a-motorcycles-fuel-filter#.UaeAH5WuC2w

Scorpio what is podding a bike?

Thanks very much for welcoming me to the forum guys!!

G

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No way! So you are the one that bought that Maxim with the white decals off Kijiji ?
Congrats. I was considering going to look at that one - so I could have a red one and a black one - for different moods. :laugh:
There are way more Ontario riders too. They are bound to chime in eventually, I hope.

If by '82 pdf files you mean the manual on this Forum, then yes, virtually nothing changed for the 3 years this model was exported to N.America. The pdfs on here are for the Seca but all key mechanicals, except the tranny are the same. All the maintenance specs, intervals, checks etc. are the same.

The in-line filter is easy to do: http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7574
Since the filter has length, you may need to remove a chunk of hose of similar length. If your fuel line is getting frayed on the ends, cut a half piece off each end, then cut the line about 30% from one end so there is enough length after the filter to make a smooth 90 degree curve without kinking. It takes 5 minutes tops the 2nd time - longer the 1st time because you'll measure 3 times and worry some before making the cut. But it's easy.

I'm not sure about your PO's oil comment. He may mean that they designed the bike to perform with the oils available to them in 1981 so it will have a long healthy life on regular "inexpensive" motorcycle oil ("dino" in some parlance). By "fine" he may mean full synthetic oil and many on here agree that, while it won't do the bike any harm (IF it says MA), it is money unnecessarily spent since the bike was built before synthetic was invented. The choice is yours.

If you are a beginner, you should definitely leave everything alone if it is running well, at least through your first season. Unless you hate to be riding and would rather be "wrenching" instead, there is nothing worse than a shut-down on riding because of an an owner-induced maintenance requirement. In my opinion, from reading the forum for over a year, this almost always happens from something like "podding" - which is ripping out a perfectly good airbox and filter and substituting those cool looking pod air filters.
They do look cool, but they let in more air so you have to take the carbs out and install new jets so it will run properly again. Several newbies have complained that in the course of doing these mods, they break tiny little fragile brass needles and internal parts. Then there is the long wait for more new parts. Sometimes they don't fit properly or have slightly different characteristcs thus initiating another round of re-jetting and rebalancing then re-synching (which requires you to manufacture a home-made manometer - and on and on it goes.

Similarly, this can happen when you install modified exhaust pipes that sound cooler. If they don't have the same back pressure then it initiates another round of re-jetting and rebalancing then re-synching (which requires you to manufacture a home-made manometer - and on and on it goes. You get the idea.

Now, don't get me wrong, I can see where all of the above would be fun on rainy days on a second bike. And, I may even start doing it one day. But, like I said in my "First Letter to the xs400ians", I spent $3 to preserve it's perfect running, and have gone now over 13,000 kms without adjusting or repairing a single thing on the motor. This is the path I recommend you follow for your first season.
And, if you read my old threads, you will avoid all the pot holes on this path that I fell into.

I hope you enjoy your Maxim as much as I have mine. Not sure where you'd be coming from, but if you ever plan an excursion to the Forks of the Credit, let me know and I'll show you the hill where I did my sprocket road tests :D
 
Exactly what Lou said these pods replace the air boxes and take quite a bit of modding after that.Leave your exhaust alone just leave the bike stock.If I could go back I would even have messed with the pods but exhaust was screw up so I had to mod then rejet accordingly.Your dohc engine produce more power than sohc model like whats on my bike and thats why I went for pods so I could get some more performance out of it.You have a fantastic looking bike enjoy riding it.
 
I love all the threads I read about how to make your bike GO, and they should, but an old guy taught me a long time ago this bit of wisdom.
Make sure it will stop before you make sure it will go. Test the brakes and make sure all the wheel parts are in order and then----GITTYUP!
 
So you were looking at the same one Lou!? That's amazing! It's definitely not still for sale though ;) not sure why the ad's still up .. I'm very happy with the bike.

I'm coming from downtown Toronto so I may one day check out that route thanks Lou!

All your help is greatly appreciated guys, especially for such a newbie! I'm going to look into the in-line fuel filter and take care of that when I build up some confidence :) I took her out for the first time yesterday and it was fantastic.

Though low and behold I've come across my first issue just 2 days in. I searched the forums and found a couple of similar instances but no solid fix for it.. My right side turn signals work and flash perfectly, my left front however just stays on solid and my left rear doesn't work at all. Also the right indicator light on the dash flashes, and the left one just stays solid. Would you guys have any pointers on hoe to troubleshoot this? Also is my bike road legal while this issue is happening?

Thanks for all the help guys, I hope to be able to pay it forward in the near future :)

G
 
You are tempting fate driving around without an in-line filter. You are banned from asking how to clean carbs if something happens :wink2:

It sounds like the rear bulb is burned out or the connection has lost conductivity.
This happened to one of mine. In my case, the bulb was okay and I had to buff the surface of the receptacle with fine sandpaper. Apparently it is wired up this way so that if you notice that the dash flasher doesn't work right it tells you immediately that one of the bulbs isn't lighting.

I think you are legal if you use a hand signal when you don't have a working blinker. You may still get stopped for a warning but if you have clearly hand signaled I don't think they could make a ticket stick.
So, now your trip to the lawnmower dealer tomorrow morning is up to $4.50 - for an in-line filter and a spare turn bulb.
 
Welcome aboard. Just take your time getting used to it and listen to the advice of the people here.

In your second post you said; "It seems this bike was his baby and he did a lot of the fixing up himself, so there's no paperwork for it but it seems to run very well, no leaks or strange noises, cold start etc." I hope by "No paperwork" you meant service records and receipts and that you did get an ownership and a UVIP (Used Vehicle Information Package) from the seller.
 
Thanks very much 63-Coupe. I guess that wasn't very clear, but yeah I meant just the paperwork for the work that was done on the bike, I did receive an information package with all the previous owners etc..

I'm going to troubleshoot my turn signal issue in the afternoon tomorrow, however I don't have a full tool kit, just the regular house stuff (hammer, screwdriver etc). I guess my order will be something like this:

Swap the bulbs to see if it's just a blown bulb, if not then trace and wiggle all the wires and clean the turn signal switch. After that I don't really know what to do!

Lou what do you mean when you say "buff the surface of the receptacle"?

I'm sorry to keep asking for help here! What would be my best course of action? I searched the forums and on this thread http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5445 a user named Joel chimed in and had the EXACT same issue as I do so I'll just try unscrewing it and fiddle with it a bit..

I just realized I owe this forum (and myself!) some photos.. coming soon :)

Thanks guys

G
 
You'll get almost anything done with a good set of screwdrivers and a socket set. Just don't try to fix things with tools you know don't fit. You'll get yourself into loads of trouble if you do. I personally bought the cheapest socket set I could find, it was less than 10 bucks. Works perfectly. My $1 each screwdrivers also work like a charm. It's better to have lots of sizes of cheap tools, than a few good ones which don't exactly fit.

Lou meant by "buff the surface of the receptacle" that you should check the housing of your bulb on your bike, and give it a little sand paper treatment or something. Make sure the connections to your bulb are clean and connecting. I've also had issues with my tail light, due to receptacles not connecting to the bulbs. These things are a little more prone to failure than other parts of the electrical.

The reason for your left indicator not working (going on permanently) is because your flasher relay (a little element which is hidden in your frame), which does the blinking (it switches on and off and on and off, when you put load on it) needs a certain load to 'see' your indicators are on. Since one of your lights is not working, there is less load on your relay and it doesn't reach its threshold to switch on. Putting in a bulb that works will increase the load again, and make it flash. The same thing happens when you replace your bulbs with LED lights, which require much less energy. The turn signals switch on, but don't blink. I have this problem, and I need to replace my relay because of this.

To come back on your course of action. Yes, swap the bulbs first. Or get a new bulb, and try that one. Even if it's not the bulb, it's always good to have a spare. Then check the receptacle (bulb housing on your bike). Then the wire. As your turn signals still go on, you can exclude the turn signal switch, that's working fine.

good luck, and yes post pictures :)
 
Willem read my mind. Even if switching left for right makes them work again it's a good idea to give the receptacles and the bulb knobs a quick "buff" so the oxidation doesn't simply cause the same problem a day later.

Another good rule of thumb which I learned the hard way - it's okay to worry about the the complicated things (like "it might be the switch, what if I I have to take it apart and rebuild it?"), but don't ever start there. KISS.
It's usually something easy like the bulb has been in there untouched and un-wiggled for 27 years and it needs a wipe.
 
X2 on what Lou Ranger said about the KISS method. Always start with the cheap and easy stuff such as swapping light bulbs.

Keep your eye open for Canadian Tire or Princess Auto to have a sale on an inexpensive basic set of tools with sockets and wrenches. Garage sales and KIJIJI are also a decent source if your budget is limited. Remember though that you want metric, not SAE sizes.

Glad to hear to got the proper legal paperwork. So many people don't and then run into problems after the fact when it's time to register it and put it on the road. :doh:
 
Hi Guys!

Sorry I've been absent..

So!! After having to drill out a completely stripped screw I found once I took a look inside the turn signal it was extremely corroded, so much that the bad of the bulb had rusted itself into the housing! After about 45 mins of twisting and and picking and crunching I managed to get it out. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned it all up, though unfortunately while doing that I pulled out on of the wires that connect to the bulb housing..

I managed to tape the wire back onto the bulb housing with some electric tape which worked a treat!! So now my turn signals are all working normally. This is obviously a temporary fix though, I'm going to order a turn signal from ebay and fix it it properly once it arrives.

What would be a reasonable price to pay for one? Would it HAVE to be a 1984 turn signal? Also would it HAVE to be a left/rear or are they universal?

Oh and finally took some pictures today after a little clean :)



 
I think you should be able to find a single for less than $20.
If you don't care about them being authentic, I have seen some cheap sets of 4 for under $20.

A bike "bone-yard" may have used ones for less. Lots of different Yamaha models from the era had very similar is not the same turn signal assemblies. Or, failing that, you could look for a set of 2 used ones that are close enough that you could match left to right even if not exactly back to front.

If it were me and I had a bit of time, I would try to simply find a new bulb receptacle part (at an auto supply place or a bone-yard) that I could mount or glue into the empty housing.
Clear automotive "GOOP" is an even better MacGyvering agent than is Duct Tape!
 

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