Rear shocks

[WelderDave]

Looking for new rear shocks, and I’m not finding a whole lot that have the right diameter top and bottom eyes. We’ve got 14mm bottom and 10 mm top from what I’ve been reading but a lot I see have 12mm eyelets.

I don’t want the ones from mikesxs because I’m only 140 lbs. and I heard they’re so stiff they’re like solid bars.
Does anyone have any knowledge about some good ones they could recommend?

 

[sandmanred]

I got these a few months back. They seem to be OK.

Apparently shocks can be rebuilt but I have no idea where to source the parts.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-6-320mm-Motorcycle-Rear-Shock-Absorbers-Suspension-For-Honda-Yamaha/303192255294?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[motoTrooper]

Not knocking what sandmanred shared but If you'd like to get some midrange quality stuff over cheap chinese crap, Hagon has a good reputation for quality and service.

http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/HagShocks.htm

 

[WelderDave]

Both great replies, just fishing for information at this point. I may try the Hagons, but it all depends on my funds by spring.
Sandman, how well do the eyelets mount up? I thought one had to be 10mm and the other 14?

 

[Gra900]

I found you can buy a range of rubber bushes with different sized inside bushes. Pretty straightforward to press them out with a vice. Search on eBay and there just a few £

 

[xschris]

Some shock companies can build them for your weight and type of riding you do. This is also called spring rate. It will cost more that the ebay universal RFY shocks but will last and perform far better. I run all stock stuff with my bikes but they are in perfect shape and work as they should.

 

[NewHavenMike]

A lot of the aftermarket shocks will come with adapter bushings for the eyelets to make them fit. Sometimes you can just replace the rubber with the one from the old shock.

Theres nothing wrong with the stockers when they are in decent condition. I have them set on the lightest pre-load and im 160lbs. I can ride a passenger no problem.

If you want a better suspension, upgrade to tapered neck bearings , get progressive springs up front and bronze swingarm bushings for the rear. That will tighten things up nicely.

 

[sandmanred]

Both great replies, just fishing for information at this point. I may try the Hagons, but it all depends on my funds by spring.
Sandman, how well do the eyelets mount up? I thought one had to be 10mm and the other 14?

They come with a variety of possibilities via bushings. I had to move things around a bit but everything I needed was in the package. I think went without a metal bushing on the bottom and with one of the packaged bushings on the top. I had just powder coated the frame and recall the top bushing was a bit longer than the frame would allow so I shortened it a bit. If I hadn't just coated the frame I might have just pried open that top mount a bit.

 

[WelderDave]

Good to know sandman, thank you. And new haven, I appreciate the advice, I already did the bronze swingarm bushings and I’m already thinking about the progressive springs for the front. I changed the fluid and bushings last year but I am thinking of adding the 150mm from the top “mod” to see if that will do the trick first.
I’m also sanding down my whole frame, idk if I wanna have the frame powder coated or give is a rough look maybe with a bed liner (except the mounting points for obvious reasons.).i have not yet looked into new neck bearings, but I’ll keep that in mind. What bearings do we have in there and why would tapered be better?

 

[sandmanred]

If you are going to have it powder coated they usually do have a prep process they like that's part of the powder coating process. There are thousands of finishes available including ones that are rough or crinkly. Having just painted a frame myself I'd consider going to a powder coater for a frame. Frames have so many odd shapes and are so big it's hard for me to do and get good results at home. I had trouble getting a smooth finish because the part was so big and I'd get over spray from one area on to another. Painting smaller items like hubs and fenders went okay for me but I struggle to get good results with the bigger parts.

 

[NewHavenMike]

The neck uses loose bearing balls and cups, the same type as most bicycles have. They will fall out when you loosen the neck. They are held in place by the clamping force of the triple tree, which creates a pressure. Tapered bearings are stronger and smoother and will be more stable.

I did my frame in Rustoleum truck bed spray. I stripped it to bare metal and used a self etching primer. I think it came out great.

A lot of the welds on these frames are nasty looking. I was broke when I built mine and I didnt want the bike to be perfect and super clean. The truck bed texture blends very well with the rough welds and only cost me around $75 for everything.

The benefit of the truck bed loner is that you can easily touch up any scratches that will happen on the frame.

The hard part was using the aircraft stripper. Then i had to take the frame to a DIY car wash and spray wash it all off and dry it off as fast as possible.

Then i prepped the bare metal with mineral spirits, and finally denatured alcohol. It was ready for primer after that.

 

[WelderDave]

I think I will look into the tapered valentines then since I’ll have it all apart, idk that I’d wanna mess with loose bearings. Any good places you recommend for them? And that’s kinda how I figured I was gonna do the frame also. I think the rough texture would really make the bike look rugged and I know what you’re talking about rough looking welds, I’m a welder and I see them all the time on the bike. Lots of good tips, thank you! Do you have a pic of the frame done?

 

[NewHavenMike]

Allballsracing has wheel bearings, neck bearings, and front fork seal kits.

Unfortunately, im the type of person that never takes any photos.. what I do have is not anything up close either.

Thats really all I have to give you a glimpse of the frame. I can get a better shot, I ride my bike a lot so its no where near as clean now.. the paint has held up very well im surprised because its a rattle can job.

Aside from the frame, I painted a lot of bits and pieces with the truck bed liner, the triple tree, engine mounts, rear brake stay, peg supports, rear brake, swingarm, even the plastic headlight bucket.

 

[WelderDave]

Well either way, it looks like you did a very good job on it.

 

[XSLeo]

The loose ball bears can take set after years of use and just setting. They don't get maintained as well as they should. They get rusty and pitted. The balls get flat spots the races dents. do to the tiny point of contact with each other.
This makes it feel rough when turning the forks back and forth.
They can also feel like they lock in place at some point. Often in the straight ahead position. Kinda like auto pilot.
This can lead to head shake an high speed wobble as well as other handling issues.
The tapered roller bearings have a much larger contact surface, so even if not maintained as they should they wont get like the loose balls do.
The kits don't cost much and are easy to install. Well worth the effort.
Leo

 

[Robsteeler66]

Nobody likes loose balls...