Sestful Build: 78 xs400E

still havnt gotten a chance to go back into the carbs as i just been wanting to ride it while the weather permits!... After several runs this weekend i though the issues were gone, however Sunday it was running rough and blubbering coming out of stops in first gear.

going to try and hold off and ride some more before diving back in to the carbs.

I noticed the rear brake is dragging a bit and is making it squeal and hard to push around in neutral. I am going to have the local shop take a look at the brakes when it goes in for new fork seals next paycheck.
 
had the day off today, decided to look at the rear brake. opened up the MC found the fluid was quite old and it was very rusted over on the inside.

Could not get the caliper off without bleeding some of the fluid out, the piston was still pressing on the disc. After getting the caliper off I tried pushing the caliper in w the bleeder closed and i guess the return hole is very clogged since I broke my old C Clamp without moving the piston at all...

Is the caliper sleeve supposed to move freely in the boot? (circled in red)

Mine is frozen solid, could get it to budge or get it to come out.

...who wants to donate a rear MC? :(
 

Attachments

  • caliper.jpg
    caliper.jpg
    162.7 KB · Views: 280
  • MC REAR.jpg
    MC REAR.jpg
    193.9 KB · Views: 281
  • CClamp.jpg
    CClamp.jpg
    304.2 KB · Views: 257
Yes the part you circled in red should move freely. It lets the caliper "float" as you apply the brake. Spray some lube in there and work it till it slides freely.
 
Thanks Chris, Figured it should move since it had two rubber boots on it!

Regular brake parts grease should do it?
 
Once you free it up a bit slide the metal part right out, then pull out the rubber grommet (squeeze up one end and force it through the hole and pull it out the other side). Give the rubber grommet a really good clean, it will have all dirt, grease and crap built up on it and in all the crevices. Clean up the metal bit and the hole itself. Then when you put it all back together it should move nicely, I remember when I did mine it was solid like yours but came good.
 
pulled the rear MC apart and cleaned and sanded away any rust. Took a strand of steel wire off my grill brush to clear the return hole before buttoning it all up.

waiting on a new brake line to come in from eBay this week i hope

How easily should the caliper piston move in and out? Using brake fluid as a lubricant i can push the piston in by hand with some pressure, but i am not able to get it back out with hitting it w compressed air.
 
I seem to remember, once I had un-froze it, which was stuck due to me being :stupid:
stupid, the piston with a new gasket, didn't feel locked up.

I can see that perhaps once it is pushed in, that it is not designed to come out due to a vacumn. so I think the key word is, "locked in place." so don't push it inall the way, unless you do it evenly. Does that make sense?
 
with brake line off and the bleeder screw out, there really isnt a vacuum anymore and would think id be able to pull it out without much force...maybe not tho

decided to fork up the money and bought new caliper rebuild kits and a new caliper piston since there was some decent pitting.

read on line some wd40 and balled up tinfoil should help smooth the piston's bore while i wait for the parts to arrive
 
still waiting on rear brake parts to arrive.. i did get my seat back, pretty happy with the results even tho i grossly over paid for what it is i know... now i can actually not worry about it getting rained on if i leave it outside1
 

Attachments

  • photo 1(4).jpg
    photo 1(4).jpg
    236.9 KB · Views: 280
  • photo 2(4).jpg
    photo 2(4).jpg
    187.9 KB · Views: 271
  • photo 3(4).jpg
    photo 3(4).jpg
    209.4 KB · Views: 241
Still waiting on a rear brake line to come in...

spent a little money over the recent "Black Friday/ Cyber Monday" bought a a small industrial jewelry ultrasonic cleaner for the Master cylinder parts.

I ended up forking out the dough for a Mac 2-1 exhaust... the emgo cans were just way too loud for me (mostly my neighbors), but i hope the 2-1 megaphone isnt toooo quiet.

Any have a starting point for 2-1 and uni filters for jetting?
 
The bike is looking good!

I like your headlamp, gauges and bar - where did you get them?

I don't like all the right angles on the Seca lights and am looking to change them.
 
Got the bike back from the shop w new fork seals and oil yesterday. Feels great.

oil was a bit hight, threw the compression test way high
 
Last edited:
If the bike is over full of oil it maybe getting into the combustion chamber making everything seal more than it would normally. Get the oil to the proper amount. Too high of compression can start to break parts in the motor.
 
Oh yes, and when the oil is too high the oil will get frothy and foamy and won't go through the engine properly; it can cause oil starvation.
 
it really was only 2 miles so i hope nothing major happened. i checked the compression after letting some oil out but ill give it another go after letting it sit this weekend.
 
Last edited:
one thing i forgot to mention, is I did the compression test with a cold engine and the exhaust was off.

on side with the overly high compression (Cylinder 1): it looked like there was smoke coughing out the exhaust port as it was cranking during the test. Is this oil spray?

Also there was a strange chirping sound as it was cranking, sounds like someone was smacking their palm on one open side of a metal pipe
 
Back
Top