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It's fairly easy to do. Put bike on Center stand. Remove seat and gas tank. Disconnect tach cable. Remove spark plugs. Remove access cover on alternator. Remove upper engine mounts. Remove wiring harness guide. Remove cam cover. Measure valve clearances and take notes. Make sure clearances are at or above minimum in manual, with the engine at ambient temp. Place valve cover back in place. Calculate new shim requirements and get shims from Yamaha or Kawasaki dealer 29mm diameter). Rotate engine until desired valve is open. Insert thick nylon wire tie (zip tie) through spark plug hole between valve and seat to hold valve open. Rotate engine until cam lobe is pointing away from valve. Chance valve shim. Rotate engine to remove wire tie. Repeat for remaining valves.
The first time should take you about 2 hours of actual working time. Plus the time to get the shims. Every time after should be about 1 hour working time.
While that may be true, bikes don't also lose 75% of their power and backfire into the intake rampantly when they get hot. At least, they're not supposed to lol.
bob, your symptoms are those of one cylinder dropping out. This happens when there isn't enough fuel delivered, and especially at high rpms you are sucking a lot of fuel. The mixture also leans out when the bike gets hot, my guess is that that triggers the dropping out. Sounds like carbs.
bob, your symptoms are those of one cylinder dropping out. This happens when there isn't enough fuel delivered, and especially at high rpms you are sucking a lot of fuel. The mixture also leans out when the bike gets hot, my guess is that that triggers the dropping out. Sounds like carbs.