Boiling Carbs

Taintedsaiden

400J Butterface
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Boil your carbs on a camp stove outside, save a relationship. :D

Side note, can anybody fill me in on how to execute the "three hole" trick?
 
The three holes just behind the butterfly, connecting to the piolet circut. Something about plugging a hole somewhere while shooting carb spray through another hole all the while watching to make sure that the spray flows unobstructed through the three holes.
 
Ah! I remember those. I have never heard about a special trick but I am all ears!
 
You should use compressed air (125-150psi) to fully clean out all the little holes in the carb. Not just carb spray, if you want to clean them right:thumbsup:
 
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So, I bit the bullit last night and dropped $130 on a portable 125psi air compressor from Sears. (Now $2100 or so in the last 4 months ive spent towards this bike.) Its something ive been meaning to do since day one, so Im ok with the financial hit, (Especially since Ive have now read two million, four hundred and thirty six posts where xschris suggests compressed air. While out I also picked up some of those Super sockets for stripped bolts so I can get the oil filter bolt out. It now has about 3000 since the last filter replacement and the oil at my last change looked awefull so this was important.

Im doing all of this carb stuff because the bike has begun running poorly when cold (worse than it should,) and the starter enhancer, or choke, doesnt get the engine rpm's up. It requires full choke to start, but never goes above 1500 rpms.

82 maxim, carbs were obviously tinkered with by PO's. Upon my original cleaning, the piolets were 42.5, mains were 115, no filter in the airbox, airbox not properly sealing with carbs, stock exhaust. Worn and leaky diaphrams.

Now: New diaphrams from jdm, pods, 45 piolets, 135 mains. Bike roars to 7500 rpm's, a significant improvement from the 6000 I was maxing at before. Im probably going to try 140 mains for that extra 2500 rpm's (after a top end rebuild.)

Which leaves me with my final point. The bike may be running extra poorly when cold because there is significant evidence of extreame where and possibly damage in the top end somewhere. After finally getting all of the correct valve shims in place, the rocker sounds became much stronger which I understand is typical, but since ive pushed this bad boy to 80mph at 8000 rpm, I have developed some very negative scraping sounds. Yikes!

Also I am still interested in a solution to the three hole trick.
 
Soft metal wire.

If the hole is not too deep a bristle from a brass brush will work. If the hole is inaccessible or deep I know that brass wire can be bought. I never ran into anything that required a long wire though; a short probe, compressed air, and carb cleaner was all I needed.
 
Wait - there is something in the XS650 Carb Guide in section 6 about cleaning the choke circuit by spraying carb cleaner into one part and watching for it out some other part... it's been a while since I read through the guide in detail, but that might be what you're thinking of.

If you really are thinking of my wife, then I can still assure you, only two holes, one is a no-go.
 
And a big thanx to Bentwrench with his insight to the 650 carb cleaning guide, the three hole mystery is solved!

In the forward end of the carburetor bore, you'll find a number of holes (see Appendix,
item 11). In front of the throttle plate (butterfly), you'll find either one or two large holes
and one small hole. One of the large holes draws mixture from the enricher, and the
other will either be blind or open into the synchronizer attachment port if the carb is so
equipped. Do not apply solvent without removing the choke plunger (see enricher
section). The small hole draws mixture from the fuel screw. Blow aerosol carb cleaner
into the hole until it flows freely from the fuel screw area. Then block the hole with a rag,
insert the tube from a can of carb cleaner in the fuel screw seat area, sealing with a rag,
and blow cleaner in until it flows freely from the hole in the carb body that sits above the
pilot jet (BS38) or the pilot jet casting (BS34). Follow with compressed air.
Behind the throttle plate are more small holes, 2 in BS38's, a cluster of 3 in BS34's (see
Appendix, item 11). In early BS38 carbs these are fed by the bypass pipe, a brass tube
between the slide and the throttle plate in the middle of the bore. Find its source in the
carburetor body and shoot with carb cleaner and air until clear.
In later BS38 carbs and all BS34's, the bypass nozzles are fed from the fuel screw
passage, and no tube is present. Seal the tube on a can of carb cleaner in the fuel
screw hole with a rag or drilled plug, cover the small nozzle in front of the throttle plate
with another rag and hold it in place with your thumb, hold the throttle plate open, and
spray until cleaner emerges from the nozzles. Follow up with compressed air.:thumbsup:
 
Where do I find the famous 650 carb cleaning guide ?

Messing with a XS400, that only comes to live very very slowly. And it won't accep any choke or throttle at all. So I get the idea, that something has to be adjusted - but my Haynes doesn't seem to tell me how.

Can anyone help ?
 
If you shoot compressed air into all the holes, you'll be able to figure out which circuits are what and what holes to cover, etc. It's not too complicated.

I used some stiff fishing line that I had laying around.

Also, I'd put some Seafoam in the tank every 10 fillups or so, just to help keep things clean. If you use non-ethanol gas, ride regularly, toss in some Seafoam once a month, you should be fine.
 
Getting mine ready to boil.

On the float bowl side on the carb body, whats the smaller tube sticking out with the main jet tube? There's a tiny brass "something" in there that looks like it can be unscrewed, but I can't for the life of me get it out and it looks like the PO already mangled one of them.

Also, it's okay to just let all the brass fitting boiling around in there with all the other big parts (body, float bowl)? or should I boil them in a seperate pot to be safe?

Thanks for any help, really loving this forum so far!
 
Those would be your pilot jets. They really should come out, and be replaced if damaged. 90% of your riding will be done on the pilot jets, unless you are a speed racing super hero or cruise highways at illegal speeds...
 
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