1979 xs400 mosfet regulator rectifier theory

maydaverave

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It seems to me I'm not alone in my frustration with the older xs field coil alternator system. They don't seem to work well, mine certainly doesn't or didn't. The field generator makes it difficult to upgrade to a more modern system. I have been upgrading all the electrical components on my bike but have been stuck on the charging system for an embarrassing amount of time. My theory is that regulating the current by modulating the field coil is the problem and by constantly powering the field coil and regulating power by changing the resistance of the stator with a modern mosfet regulator rectifier is the best solution. My biggest fear was heat build up in the wires to the stator and field coil especially. So i ran 12 gauge wire from under the engine to where the stator and field coild wires come out. A trick i learned from hotrodding ebikes. The thicker wire acts as a heat sink allowing heat to flow from the stator and field coil preventing heat from building up and melting the insulation and causing a short. I ran the stator wiring to a mosfet regulator rectifier and directly wired the field coil to my main circuit and grounded to the frame. It works much better than stock. I can drive around town without worrying about my battery draining. Idle doesn't drain the battery and it starts charging at three thousand rpm instead of five thousand rpm.
 
Disclaimer this is experimental. I would recommend waiting til i put a couple thousand miles on this before trying it. Unless like me your willing to risk it and if it fails I'm going to try to put a permanent magnet system in. My theory is (and i don't mind some friendly debating) that my battery is never fully charged so the field coil is pretty much on all the time anyways. I'm guessing that the whole system is turning on full power and off constantly but mostly full on. What I'm curious about does the stator resistance affect the field coil current? Voltage shouldn't hurt the field coil, to much current would hurt the field coil. I imagine the current the field coil draws is based on the resistance of the stator. I'm guessing the field coil draws more current the more energy the stator is producing. My theory is that the field coil is drawing the same amount of current to produce the same amount of power whether your controlling the current by modulating the field coil or stator. But since the mosfet is much more efficient it might be drawing less current even though its always at full voltage. Any input or ideas for testing these theories would be appreciated.
 
They don't seem to work well, mine certainly doesn't or didn't.
The stock alternators don't have a high output, only 14.5V*13A=188.5W at 5000rpm, but when they're in good condition they are adequate for the bike.
It doesn't look like you've ever figured out what your charging issue is. You've mentioned in a few places that it only charges above 5000rpm. It should be able to charge charge at much lower rpms.
Have you done the resistance tests for the stator windings and field coil?
Have you done the tests for the regulator in the manual?
How are you determining the rpm when it starts charging?
The field generator makes it difficult to upgrade to a more modern system.
Yamaha certainly never designed it to be upgraded. You'd have to replace the field coil with one that can generate a greater magnetic flux or replace the entire alternator with a PMA setup.
The problem with somehow increasing the magnetic flux of the field coil is that in our alternators it's not the magnetic flux of the field coil that rotates, interacting with the stator. The stationary field coil magnetizes the iron of the spinning rotor. It's the rotor's magnetic field that induces a voltage in the stator.
I suspect that our rotors are probably operating near saturation and any additional field coil flux would be wasted.
I have been upgrading all the electrical components on my bike but have been stuck on the charging system for an embarrassing amount of time. My theory is that regulating the current by modulating the field coil is the problem and by constantly powering the field coil and regulating power by changing the resistance of the stator with a modern mosfet regulator rectifier is the best solution.
It's possible that your stock regulator wasn't working properly. It should be giving the field coil constant power when the bike needs that much power.
The problem is that the My biggest fear was heat build up in the wires to the stator and field coil especially. So i ran 12 gauge wire from under the engine to where the stator and field coild wires come out. A trick i learned from hotrodding ebikes. The thicker wire acts as a heat sink allowing heat to flow from the stator and field coil preventing heat from building up and melting the insulation and causing a short.
It'll also slightly reduce the voltage drop in the wires and might squeeze a bit more efficiency out of the system.
I ran the stator wiring to a mosfet regulator rectifier and directly wired the field coil to my main circuit and grounded to the frame. It works much better than stock. I can drive around town without worrying about my battery draining. Idle doesn't drain the battery and it starts charging at three thousand rpm instead of five thousand rpm.
Cool.
What I'm curious about does the stator resistance affect the field coil current?
No. Stator resistance never changes beyond slight temperature variations. If you're thinking of increasing stator current causing an increase in field coil current by some kind of mutual induction, also no.
Voltage shouldn't hurt the field coil, to much current would hurt the field coil.
Within reason. If you somehow hotrodded the field coil to run at a voltage much higher than battery voltage, like 60-100V+, the insulation on the field coil wire would eventually degrade and short circuit.
Excessive voltage in the stator WILL burn it out. There are numerous threads on other bike forums about stators being burned up by mostfet shunt-type regulators. Some manufacturers are starting to switch to series type regulators that do not run the stators at maximum voltage.
I imagine the current the field coil draws is based on the resistance of the stator.
Again, no. The current draw of any alternator with a field coil, whether on our bikes or a diesel generator, depends on the resistance of the field coil windings themselves and the resistance inserted into the field coil circuit by an automatic regulator. Maximum field coil current is restricted by the resistance of the field coil windings.
I'm guessing the field coil draws more current the more energy the stator is producing.
It's the other way around. In any alternator, our's included, when there's a load on the alternator the stator will have a given current and voltage. To limit the output voltage to the desired value the field coil current is kept low by inserting a high resistance.
When additional loads are added the current draw on the stator goes up. When the current draw on the stator goes up the magnetic fields cause the output voltage to drop. The regulator senses that drop and reduces the field coil resistance, increasing field coil current.
As more loads are added the regulator lowers the resistance of the field coil circuit until it's down to just the resistance of the wire in the field coil windings, and that's the maximum output of the alternator.
My theory is that the field coil is drawing the same amount of current to produce the same amount of power whether your controlling the current by modulating the field coil or stator.
Now you're comparing apples to oranges.
Field coil current and stator current are two very different things.
In the stock setup field coil current is varied by the regulator to meet the demands of the bike.
In your mosfet shunt/constant field coil power is at 100% all the time and stator current is at 100% all the time. Your bike doesn't need 100% all the time so the mosfet shunt regulator shunts the excess to ground, only letting through what the bike needs.
But since the mosfet is much more efficient it might be drawing less current even though its always at full voltage.
I think you may have bypassed whatever the problem with your charging system was.
Any input or ideas for testing these theories would be appreciated.
Do a whole bunch of different tests with varying loads, at different RPMs, on both your system and a perfectly functioning stock system.
Or run it until it burns out.
 
More reading on SCR shunt vs MOSFET shunt vs series regulators:
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...ostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade-print.html

I've been thinking for a while about charging system modifications along the same lines as what you've done, but with the goals of minimizing alternator load and eliminating overcharge of aftermarket batteries.
A series regulator will definitely be my first choice.
 
According to the article it's a shunt type. Yes, with mosfets it's more efficient than an SCR type shunt regulator, but it still runs the stator at 100% all the time.

I've come across more than a few reports on other forums about newer bikes frying stators with shunt regulators, never mind our 30-40 year old bikes.
I'd rather go easy on the old hardware and minimize the risk of damage.
 
I'm trying to make the bike reliable. If this frys the stator or regulator then I'll try to fit a more modern system in there or just run a big lithium battery. Speaking of lithium batteries I'm having no luck with lithium. I have tried a couple 4s lipoly packs and none have lasted. I think its because my voltage drops to about 12.6 volts at idle which is to low for lipo. I'm thinking about trying the battery tender lithium iron phosphate.
 
Another out there question? I know i need a battery to start the bike but once started could it run on a capacitor? I'm thinking use a lithium battery with a diode to start the bike and a capacitor to run it. I could balance charge the battery at home and have enough power to start my bike ten times or more. Just plug it in each night.
 
According to the article it's a shunt type. Yes, with mosfets it's more efficient than an SCR type shunt regulator, but it still runs the stator at 100% all the time.

I've come across more than a few reports on other forums about newer bikes frying stators with shunt regulators, never mind our 30-40 year old bikes.
I'd rather go easy on the old hardware and minimize the risk of damage.
almost all regulators are shunt i think. The 79xs400 modulates power through the field coil but it still shunts excess power. I would bet a mosfet unit is more efficient. Time will tell.
 
I'm thinking lithium battery on a switch connected to a capacitor. Turn on battery energize field coil and electric ignition start bike turn off battery. Leave charging leads on battery and plug in every night.
 
Speaking of lithium batteries I'm having no luck with lithium. I have tried a couple 4s lipoly packs and none have lasted. I think its because my voltage drops to about 12.6 volts at idle which is to low for lipo.
That sucks. Looked like an intriguing possibility. I was hoping it'd work out so I could try it.
Another out there question? I know i need a battery to start the bike but once started could it run on a capacitor?
Interesting idea. No idea if it'd work. If the charging system isn't giving enough voltage at idle for the battery I'd worry whether the bike could maintain a high enough voltage in the cap to keep running especially with the added draw of the field coil compared to the usual capacitor setup with a PMA.
If it'd work though you could setup a latching relay to work like the headlight relay but that cuts power from the battery when the alternator is generating power.

almost all regulators are shunt i think. The 79xs400 modulates power through the field coil but it still shunts excess power. I would bet a mosfet unit is more efficient. Time will tell.
I can see where you're coming from but the "excess" power doesn't shunt to ground and the underlying technology is completely different.
The field coil regulator prevents excess power from being generated in the first place. Some voltage gets dropped in the resistor (using the mechanical regulator as an example) but nothing ever shunts/shorts to ground in the way the MOSFET regulator shorts excess voltage from the stator coils directly.

I still feel like there may be an issue with your charging system that's not being addressed by these changes. Have you done resistance tests on the stator and field coil windings?
 
Is it normal for the field coil alternator to deliver full voltage at idle? From what i understand the main way the mosfet rectifier regulator regulates power is by turning off power from the stator. Which is how most if not all permanent magnet systems funtcion. The advantages of mosfet versus diodes is that mosfets are much much faster drawing and shunting less power.
 
I haven't done full voltage tests on my 360 at various rpms but other posts on the forum seem to say that it should be possible to get close.
From what i understand the main way the mosfet rectifier regulator regulates power is by turning off power from the stator.
Define "off".
The mosfet regulator disconnects the stator from the rest of the bike's electrical system when the sine wave exceeds a set voltage. It does this by shorting/shunting to ground.
In that instant the stator is "off" from the perspective of the bike but from stator's perspective the short to ground causes its current to skyrocket to its saturation.

The advantages of mosfet versus diodes is that mosfets are much much faster drawing and shunting less power.
MOSFET regulators improved on SCR based shunt regulators. Diodes are used in the stock rectifiers but don't regulate at all.
MOSFETs use less power themselves, generating less heat in the regulator, but the stator is still shorted to ground. Whether it's a SCR or MOSFET based regulator the stator current still runs high.
 
Got tired of batteries ordered an ultra capacitor. Theoretical advantages: isn't hurt by over discharging, lasts forever, no charging current limit. Cons: if bike not used for a week needs to be charged. Or pair with small battery.
 
I haven't done full voltage tests on my 360 at various rpms but other posts on the forum seem to say that it should be possible to get close.
Define "off".
The mosfet regulator disconnects the stator from the rest of the bike's electrical system when the sine wave exceeds a set voltage. It does this by shorting/shunting to ground.
In that instant the stator is "off" from the perspective of the bike but from stator's perspective the short to ground causes its current to skyrocket to its saturation.

MOSFET regulators improved on SCR based shunt regulators. Diodes are used in the stock rectifiers but don't regulate at all.
MOSFETs use less power themselves, generating less heat in the regulator, but the stator is still shorted to ground. Whether it's a SCR or MOSFET based regulator the stator current still runs high.
I'm pretty sure the mosfet turns off the current from the alternator and only shunts off tiny amounts of excess current generated faster than the mosfet can react, paired with an ultracapicitor which will absorb all excess current till fully charged should be interesting.
 
I'm pretty sure the mosfet turns off the current from the alternator and only shunts off tiny amounts of excess current generated faster than the mosfet can react, paired with an ultracapicitor which will absorb all excess current till fully charged should be interesting.
Wait I'm wrong it does ground excess current.
 
Most regulators dump to ground or through a waste circuit. = heat
Pretty well the the way things go.
I remember my first "class A" amplifier had heat sinks all over it and it would run cooler the louder you played, the excess power not driving the speakers was dumped to the heatsink.
2 mono amps about the size of milk crates and 22 watts per channel. The best amp I ever owned, but so incongruous.
 
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