adjusting valves, help!

cafedan

XS400 Addict
Messages
175
Reaction score
0
Points
16
so i pulled the tank off and got everthing ready. now im trying to do the left side first like the book says, so im aligning the LT mark with the point on the case. well everytime im on the exhaust stroke aligning the LT it wants to pass the point with compression. if that makes sense. do i have to have someone hold that in place while i adjust the valves?
 
so i started the bike when i was done and i can hear ticking sound in the head. did do it wrong?
 
wow... so i adjusted it again and again and again. i can still hear the noise. i should have listened before i adjusted. ive never had such a hard time adjusting valves before. what am i missing? i put it on the LT mark for the left side and RT for the right side. and double check .18mm for the exhaust the .10 for the intake. put it all back together and it just doesnt sound right.

any thoughts?

something else to add. when im going to TDC i go around until i see the valve go down then on the way up is when i start looking for the LT or RT
 
i thought there was somthing in the manual that said that the the marks lt and rt were for retarded ignition? aka not actually TDC

I may be completly wrong.... clearly you want to adjust the valves at TDC, sometimes the best way is to just turn the motor over untill the valve comes all the way up and go to town ...

good luck
 
The "T" means "Top", so that is the proper mark. The "F" marks are for timing.

As for the ticking, without actually hearing it, I couldn't say of it is normal or not. These engine are simple and air cooled and will not be as quiet as modern, liquid cooled engines.

That being said, the first time I adjusted the valves, I think I did it 180 degrees off and it was pretty loud. Now what I do is take the cap off and rotate the engine until the intake valve on the cylinder I am working on opens, then closes, then the very next time (a few degrees later) the marks (LT or RT) aligns, i know I am at TDC compression. Otherwise, I make have been on TDC exhaust.

I then pick a clearance right in the middle of the adjustment range and set the clearance to that amount, then double check by slipping the next smaller blade in- should be easy, and trying the next larger- should not fit. Having done that, I know I'm good. Also, always remember that a hair loose (and a hair noisy) is better than too tight which can cause the valves not to seat and can burn the exhaust valve out in short order.

If you just can't get it set right and it seems really loud, the adjusters, valve stems or both may be indented and require replacement.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
here is what im lining up. this is just after it opens then closes.

45645c8b.jpg
 
Sometimes an exhaust leak at the header pipe/head will cause a ticking sound. Are your header pipes seated and tight to the gaskets?

On my 750, you want to hear a faint clicking of the cam against the shims. Let's you know your not too tight, like HoughMade said, a bad thing.
 

does sound a bit loud.

LT and RT AFAIK stands for Left timing and right timing. as opposed to left fire and right fire (for ignition)

what I do is

1) take out the spark plugs
2) on the main stand, take off the cover
3) get a 17mm socket to turn the engine over
4) use angled feeler guages or bend them yourself, a straight feeler wont give you accurate results.
5) put your thumb over the spark plug to feel the compression rising
6) when the LT mark comes up, that is when you gap the left valves.
7) repeat for the other side.

drewps :thumbsup:
 
thanks everyone for your help!! i was one full revolution off, the thumb over the spark plug hole did the trick. thanks for that drewpy!
 
don't fret mines a bit clattery and basically i rebuilt the engine completly with new components. just keep fresh oil, maintain it occasionally and enjoy.

Modern engines have to be quiet for legislation.
 
Back
Top