bike wont rev past 6000 rpm - problem solved

JRM83

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I was having a frustrating problem that i finally solved, so i thought anyone with a similar issue could benfit from my experience. The bike is a 81 xs400 with digital ignition. (Not the points iginition).

So since last winter, when my bike was left outside and uncovered, i was having the problem where, on the highway, it would run great up to 5500 rpm where it would start to stutter . it would barely get to 6000 rpm and then there was no power left. So i started with the usual stuff, plugs and wires. No change. The plugs were whiteish. ( my timing is a bit advanced, but i only run on 91 octane) so i went upsizing the jets, both pilot and main, to two sizes over stock. No change. So checked the valve lash . One was quite off, from when i dropped an exhaust rocker arm, but after fixing it there was still no change. She would still only rev to 6k.

Next i got a spare spark plug. Disconnected the plug cap on one side, stuck in the spare plug and grounded it . After running the engine both sides were getting nice blue sparks right till redline BUT when running on left side only, she would rev till 6k, then die, or stutter, or go wonky. So i switched the plugs, wires and coils from left to right. But the problem stuck to the left side. So i cleaned all the connections in the harness . No change. Things were getting frustrating. Now my bike has the digital ignition with the pickup and not the points ignition. So i adjusted the timing all over the place but no change. I pulled the pickup off looked at it ( you cant really take it apart or anything ) and reinstalled it , and now my bike wouldnt start at all. Sigh. So after fiddling with it for days, i finally got it at least running ( the rotor was off 90 degrees when reintalled , idiot) i was now frustrated and out of ideas. Any idea what i missed. My only options left were that the pickup was gone, the cdi box was gone, or some wire somewhere was shot. I was really hoping it wasnt the last one. So i pulled the cdi box, under the battery, cracked it open. It looked perfect, brand new inside. But i got out the soldering iron, and freshened up all the soldering spots on the circuit board. Reinstalled it . And low and behold. She ran . All the way up to redline. I just got back from a two hour ride and she is running like a champ.

Anyways, sorry for being so verbose, but maybe this will help somone in the future with this frustrating problem. Cheers.
 
... It looked perfect, brand new inside. But i got out the soldering iron, and freshened up all the soldering spots on the circuit board. Reinstalled it. And low and behold. She ran . All the way up to redline...
Very cool. So they can be "repaired" sometimes after all. Good stuff.

Would love to know exactly what freshening up the spots entails.
Did you simply touch each point, melt the solder then withdraw and let cool, or,
do the above but after applying some flux first, or,
did you melt some additional volume of solder into each spot with flux?
 
No flux was needed. I had a handheld butane soldering iron with a pointy tip. Just a cheap one. And a little electical solder. Its hard to heat up the little pins with the pointy tip, because there is so little contact to transfer heat. So a tiny bit of extra solder on the iron will help my melting on the iron, drips onto the pins, and increases the heat transfer to the pins. The once the solder on the pins is visibly liquid, your done. Move on the the next pin. There are about fifty pins, so about half an hour of work. Its not hard but you have to be a bit surgical to not let any solder from one pin to ooze on to another one.
 
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Good find. The handlebar switches do this too. I have seen it there, but not the CDI box. Thanks for the write up.
In the electronics world, many times it is bad connections rather than failed components.
 
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