Carb Adjustment

vfost

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So after waiting about a month while my mechanic screws around and gets nothing done i had an appointment to drop my bike off last night to get the carbs tuned and a few other minor things. I showed up and he told me he threw his back out! :banghead: although i feel bad for the guy sometimes it seems like things are a little bit convenient for him.

Anyways i have decided to give the carb adjustment a try on my own being that i need the bike ready for a rally on labor day weekend. I will be giving it a try tonight when i get home from work. My basic plan is to just get them the best i can without taking them off the bike (i dont think they are dirty inside or anything). I know there is a downloadable manual somewhere on here that i am going to go searching for next and probably a how too thread somewhere. So other than that i was just wondering if anyone had any tips on what to do or more importantly what not to do so i dont screw anything up thanks guys!
 
Also i just thought of another problem i have been having. When i start the bike up cold it will idle just fine. However as soon as i try to raise it off of an idle to do anything one side quits firing. if you just keep giving it gas after a few seconds that cylinder will start firing and as long as you keep the rpms up it will run just fine. It will continue to act this way for about a mile or two until it gets warmed up. As soon as it is warm it runs fine all day on both cylinders. Could this be due to inbalance?
 
could be!
penre.jpg
 
Well i just got back from a friends house where we worked on the carbs some. He only had a single vacum gage so we could not synchronize them both at the same time however when we hooked it up the needle jumped around all over the place to the point that it was unreadable. So we played around with this for a while and couldnt figure anything out. After that we worked on his race car for a while because i was fed up with the carbs. When i hopped on the bike to come home it is running better than it ever has! i dont know what we stumbled into but it seems to have worked! i guess i will see in the morning when i try to cold start it for the first time since that is where i was having most of my problems.
 
to stop the needle jumping around, there should be a "pinch" thumb screw on the tube. just screw it in just till the needle stops jumping. if its been lost, just put a mini G-clamp there instead

glad you got it sorted :thumbsup:
 
I didnt look that closely at it but i didnt see any thumb screw at all but ill have to check next time im over there. I did pinch the hose off by hand one time just for the heck of it and it stayed up around 20 cm Hg when the instructions said i needed to be down around 5! wow i guess i was pretty high! well now that i know that mabye i will give it another try if i get a chance sometime thanks for the info!
 
don't worry about the readings so long as they are all the same level, that's all that matters.
some of the more expesive dial gauges have the dampeners on the dial themselves
 
Ya i dont think the readings were the same at all though because i couldnt tell what it was at at all so ill give it another try when i get some time i think that may be the main problem.

Also on the left side the exhaust is a LOT louder than the right. and that is the side that doesnt fire until it gets warmed up im just wondering what might cause this?? I replaced the mufflers thinking it was that but its not because the left side is still a lot louder.
 
Just curiosty getting the best of me here but why does it need to be clamped off to get a proper reading? also does it need to be clamped off completely? or just until the needle settles out? I will hopefully be getting to work on this tonight and settle it once and for all! :thumbsup:
 
You need to clean your carbs. Pilot jet may be blocked...

The more i think about it i am probably going to do a rebuild on them this winter. Just order the rebuild kits and go all through them because as far as i know there has never been anything done to them.

for now though i just want to get them tuned up halfway decent for the rally this weekend i am going to.
 
Well i just got back from round two of working on the carbs and i think i got them pretty well syncronized thank to drewpy! i got both of them to settle out around 18 or 19 cm Hg which is pretty high considering the manual says around 5 but still atleast they are even now.


Had an interesting thing happen tonight as well though. I was riding along a back road to my friends house and was coming up to the driveway and went to use the rear brake and the pedal just kept going down!! So i got it stopped and hopped off to take a look and the nut that goes on the back of the rod to work the arm coming out of the drum brake had vibrated all the way back so it was barely hanging on. I went to the hardware store and grabbed another nut to lock up against the back of and also put some threadlocker blue on it to make darn sure its not going to come off again!
 
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