Cutting the frame, swingarm ideas, electrical

brownv1

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Already did my intro in another thread but didn't post pics so here's a few. I was wondering where I could cut the frame and be ok. I'm not going to run the fender on the frame but feel like it was adding strength. I don't have a bender and can't weld so if I could cut it and not have to add a brace that would be ideal. Where I'm pointing is where I need to cut and I would mount the battery under the cross brace. I'm not a frame engineer so I'm realy hitting this blind. My next question does anyone know of an aluminum swingarm with dual shock mounts that would fit without too much hassle? If not does anyone have a stock laying around they are willing to sell? I have responded to some classifieds but got nothing back. Finaly i got the bike with some wiring foes. I have sorted them all except the fuse box. I think I have it figured out but could someone post a pic of a stock fuse box for me that would be awesome.
 

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your fine to cut there, as for swing arm the radian is the choice of builders for the xs650's and should fit the 400's too!
 
Is it ok to cut the raised cross bar just to the right of where he is pointing?
 
thanks for the replies. Drewpy I was hoping you would reply to this I just checked out your build, Awesome! I was gonna ask you what battery you used it looks like the perfect size I need. I know you posted about your electrical but would that bat be good for stock wiring?
 
bcware,

I have seen people cut just behind the shock mount but my opinion that cross brace is for shit thats why I wrote the thread. As of now I can squeeze the frame with my hands kinda flexy in my opinion but not sure if it affects the handling or just the seat.
 
Damn, I don't think I have ever tried squeezing it, but I figured being steel it would be very strong. I have seen people cut just behind the shocks too, but I still want to know what the informed opinion is.

I also cannot weld and I am going to buy a real seat this winter; that bar in the back is the bane of custom seating. Hence why most people chop it and re-weld a new bend. I always just wondered if this was necessary or if it was just for looks.

The evil bar doesn't look too structural compared to the flat bar in front of the shocks, but I am no engineer. I thought it was mostly there to support the stock seat while clearing the rear fender.
 
Yeah like I said im no engineer but I am with you in that I don't think the raised cross bar does much for structure. My main concern is with the very rear of the frame and how much that is used in the structural design of the frame. I cant imagine it does much but with the fender in it is rigid as can be but with it out I can manipulate it with some effort. I'm not a big guy so it's not too stiff. I know on modern bike's the shock energy is directed into the top tube/tubes depending on design. In our bikes the two shock design spreads the energy but not sure where and how much.
 
I chopped off the metal behind the raised bar and have driven it for over a thousand miles that way. Personally I think it handles fine; I can max out my tire traction in the corners and I don't feel anything funny or odd about the handling. I also drive a gsx-r 750, so I have something to compare it to. Not that they compare, haha, but it feels as though it is driving the way it should.
 
I took my bar out, but welded some small angle braces across the frame, as you can see in my blog.

the battery is a 2.1 amp alarm battery and is on the limit IMHO, I'm running aftermarket TCI and if I switch on the lamps the revs drop 200 rpm ish. the front lamps are 35w projector and the rear has 2 led stop/tail lamps which will draw less amps.

the wiring how to applies to any wiring of a bike, whether stock or otherwise.

that raised brace, can you not use it to put your battery under it?
 
unfortunately my battery is not a sealed battery got it from Wmart spurt of the moment I guess Ill do a little more research but it would fit laying sideways but I cant lay it due to it being non sealed.
 
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